With Snypers I'm 10 for 11, with the 11th living and 2 for 2 on gobblers. Oh, and 1 for 1 on coyotes.

I haven't had the chance as they fly so stupid thru the air when they open in flight. I haven't come within feet of one.

The sad thing is Jeff, many don't even know they aren't tuned. You're a relative new-comer to archery, and you probably have never used one, but the OLD sights used to have pins arranged not only for elevation, but also for windage for each individual pin. Many of our bows in the early 90's were set up and then RE-SIGHTED to shoot BH's because FP's and BH's weren't even CLOSE. Us old fingershooters just never had the accuracy that we find today using mechanical releases and drop-away arrow rests, but that is certainly not a BAD thing, as I believe the game is more humanely harvested nowadays vs. 25yrs ago. The internet is a remarkable thing in that now rather than loading a bow up, going down to a shop, and having a couple guys look at your bow, and form, and critique you, whether they new anything or not, NOW, a guy can take a picture, or a video, post it online and actually find 4-5 guys who DO KNOW SOMETHING, get decent feedback, and go back to the drawing board correcting anything that appears to need corrected.

I've learned more about archery and bow-tuning, etc in the last 5 yrs. than I did in the previous 13-14yrs, by a LONG SHOT!!! At the same time, MANY others have learned a great amount, and shared a great amount of knowledge, and in the overall realm, archery hunters are probably far more well-prepared to take to the woods today than they were 5 or 10 yrs ago, because we're so much better educated.

And while you have little confidence in the tune of many people's bows (not that I disagree with you) do you feel a slightly out of tune compound is any less capable than your Trad-Bow at delivering a killing shot???

ANNIKA, I always check my equipment before I go hunting. I always check to make sure the broadheads are screwed in tight. I check my bow to make sure my strings are not frayed. Etc... Etc...

The point is that I do not have to check my slick tricks every time I pull them out of the quiver to make sure the blades are still being held in place by the steel ferrule and steel ring at the base. It is impossible for them to come apart unless they have been removed from the arrow... Period. Once I put them together and screw them onto my arrows I know they are secure and are ready to be shot unless the entire broadhead has come loose from the arrow.

Not so with the rage. One little bump and the blades come unseated from the rubber o-ring that holds them in place.

Absolutely not! It's head and shoulders MORE capable.

My concern is people shooting heads like the rage for all the wrong reasons. I hear it so many times....."I can't get fixed heads to fly....so I'll just shoot mechanicals". That is double trouble! Not only are they obviously shooting an untuned bow/arrow combo.....they're now going to compound the problem by shooting a large mechanical broadhead that requires a tremendous amount of energy.

That's what concerns me. I agree with everything you posted.....and I enjoyed the history lesson.

No were not the same people..

It seems to me that too many folks on here are forgetting a big factor. CHECK YOUR EQUIPMENT BEFORE EACH USE. If youre not checking your equipment before you head to the woods, then dont go. You owe it to the animal. I dont care if youre usng G5 fixed heads or Rage Heads, you need to inspect your equipment before you head out. If something isnt working. FIX IT, or REPLACE IT. If I find that one or two Rage heads are having issues, Ill throw them in my box and replace them with something else. Im not saying the rage wont give me problems, but ive seen first hand what they are capable of doing, twice in the same nite. If I find they dont work for me, then I wont use them. So far my chances are looking better than some, since I check everything over not once but twice, before heading out to the field. Theres no room for ignorance in our sport. I dont care if youre shooting a crossbow, recurve, compound, etc.

Truth be known, I was one of those guys who didn't have a clue how the hell to tune these newer styled bows, and I shot Mechanicals for a while because of it. Once I figured it out, I stayed with mechanicals a couple more years because of the HUGE devastating holes they left. The more I messed around with different FBH, the more I found that I could "tinker" just a little more and get even better flight, better form and follow through certainly helped as well, especially when shooting the FBH. The last few years, I've felt just as confident with a FBH on the fore-end of an arrow as I have with a FP, and I think that's one BIG factor that makes guys lean towards the Mechanicals is confidence in the shot. I have 3 different mechanicals in my archery box that won't fly as WELL as my ST's. I think most of it is mild inconsistencies in the ferules, the long ferules balancing different, etc, but a WASP Jak-Hammer don't hit as consistent as a ST does at 40yds, nor does a Spitfire or NAP Shockwave. And I've had the Shockwave, even with the band in the right place open up during flight, one of the reasons I retired those heads after a couple kills.

I think the other thing about having your bow well-tuned and BH tuned is that you continue to develop confidence in the Fixed BH's because you can shoot them regularly and see they continue to fly well. Most mechanical aren't going to tolerate hundreds (and I really and truly mean HUNDREDS) of trips into foam before something is not working right, several of my ST's have made HUNDREDS of trips, and are still perfectly functional with a little sharpening. No replacing the O-ring or anything required.

You do make some valid points, and my mind still hasnt changed

3for3 with the 3 blades on deer!

Im gonna shoot the 2 though this year cuz i should have adequate KE. Last year I was in the 65-70 range and didnt feel comfortable enough with the large 2 blade head.