Dude, Relax! "This is where paper tuning is actually untuning the bow rather than fixing the shooters issues. IMO" I'm just saying I take offense to that. How the heck do you know that it is a "shooter issue" and not an issue with the bow? I'm not trying to make this a big deal, but some of you vets have got to start giving people a little bit of credit and stop jumping to conclusions. Rob, I want your help, because I know you've got tons of helpful things to say, that just wasn't one of them. I don't mind you suggesting that it COULD be a torque issue, that is helpful and I don't mind. But to make that statement as matter of factly as you did is presumptuous and borderline arrogant. I'm not saying you are but that is how that statement sounds. Again, I'm not trying to start something and I appreciate any help you could offer.

Matt, thanks for the tips. You might be right. I messed with my idler lean a little last night and it seems to have gotten slightly better. My tears aren't quite as bad. I will try to look at the idler lean at full draw to see what it is doing. I'm twisting the left side it is causing the tears to get shorter. Like I said I'll take a peak at full draw to see what it is doing. Do you think this could be a product of some string/cable creep? I've got new strings on the way because this one has got quite a few shots on it.

As far as arrows are concerned, I've tried 85, 100, 125 gr tips on the 27.5 Excels. Bareshaft results in same tear. I've also tried some 27.5" Beman ICS 340's with 100gr inserts and 100gr tips. Same tears, slightly worse. Also tried some 26" ICS 400's with 85gr tips. Same tear.

First of all, forget about this bare shaft stuff. Measure your centershot at 13/16", and make sure that idler wheel is dead nuts straight with the string feeding off it when at full draw. Idler wheel position may change from static to full draw, but only worry about it being straight at full draw. That idler wheel affects things way more than a lot of people realize.........make sure you fix this immediately.

Once this is done, I would then start looking at arrows. First of all a 340 is WAY to stiff for a 28" - 70lb Marquis..........even with a 125 grain head. With 100 grain inserts and 100 grain heads, it's underspined. If it were me, I would be using a 400 with a 100 grain head, and drop the peak weight down to 68lbs. That should spine perfect out of that bow, and that's the combo I would be trying to tune the bow for.

My Marquis tuned perfectly for both walkback and paper using an arrow spined correctly in OT2, and at 13/16". I'm drawing it at 30.25" AMO. If there were issues being created by torque from the roller guard, it would only be magnified at my DL, and it's not. I would try the above suggestions and then see what it does. I'm willing to bet a combination of idler lean and improper spine are causing your issues.

And looking from behind if you're twisting up the left side yoke (Arrow shelf side) your twisting the wrong side..........that's only going to pull the limb edge down further and cause the idler to lean more to that side making your string tracking worse.

Update: I mentioned that I had some new strings coming. Got home and they were in my mailbox. I put them on tonight, got everything setup, and did some basic tuning. Big difference! Not for sure why but it is a marked difference. Still not perfect through paper, but it is much better. I'm going to walkback tune tomorrow and see how it is shooting. Thanks for the help guys. I'm pretty sure it was a lean issue and still think there might be a little lean going on, but it is minor at best.