Centershot
02-06-2007, 06:27 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location:
Posts: 57
Centershot
Am I wrong in saying that --- If the string is not in the center of the limbs, in the center of the grip and aligned with the center of the arrow and sight pin then its NOT CENTER SHOT.
Put a little pencil mark in the center of your handle(grip) then line up the string with it. Now check to see if the center of the limbs, the arrow and sight all line up with it. In our opinion if they dont, then you dont have center shot.
If You dispute this statement, please explain why.
This post is merely an attempt to gain a little more understanding as to where center shot is and how center shot is set and how it effects the bows preformance.
Put a little pencil mark in the center of your handle(grip) then line up the string with it. Now check to see if the center of the limbs, the arrow and sight all line up with it. In our opinion if they dont, then you dont have center shot.
If You dispute this statement, please explain why.
This post is merely an attempt to gain a little more understanding as to where center shot is and how center shot is set and how it effects the bows preformance.
02-06-2007, 07:23 AM
#2
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 4,679
RE: Centershot
No, not all bows can be setup this way, try it with an 05 Allegiance for example. For most bows it is a good starting spot though. My tuning methods will really depend on what I plan to use the bow for.
Typically to start I will set centershot according to manufacturer specs to start. You can usually get this with a quick email/phone call to the factory. Then I will walkback tune the bow, starting at 10 yards, and then going back to 35 yards to see if the arrow is falling perfectly vertical. Typically unless I am tuning broadheads or a field archery/fita bow that will be shot out to 90 meters, I will leave the centershot where it is after the walkback tune.I may shoot one or two through paper at this point just to confirm that nothing awful is happening to the bow but that is about it.
If I am shooting broadheads, I will typically tune the way described above, and then will group tune the heads to see where different heads hit. I typically hunt with an expandable head primarily, but always have fixed heads in the quiver to shoot through blind mesh. I will tune the bow so both hit the same place by making minor adjustments until the groups come together at 40 yards. I will then make sure it is doing the same at 10, 20, 30, 40, and 50 yards.
If I am setting up a field archery/fita bow that is being shot out to 90 meters I will follow thewalkback tune steps first, but will make stops at 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60 yards to make sure the group keeps dropping vertically and doesn't move from side to side at different distances indicating spine problems with the arrow. Once I know it is dropping vertically, I will then step back to the point is which I am confident I can hold a pretty good group consistently (60 yards or so) and then I will group tune the arrow. Basically what I do there is shoot 5 arrow groups at a VERY large backstop, then record size of the group. Make a small finite adjustment to the rest, and see if the group opens up or shrinks. I will keep doing this and it is amazing to see how sometimes a tiny tiny tiny amount of adjustment can somehow really shrink the group up. When I find this "sweet spot" I tighten the rest down good, and then proceed to sight in the bow.
Hope this helps, and I certainly don't claim these are the best ways to do this stuff.......just what I do and have been taught.
Typically to start I will set centershot according to manufacturer specs to start. You can usually get this with a quick email/phone call to the factory. Then I will walkback tune the bow, starting at 10 yards, and then going back to 35 yards to see if the arrow is falling perfectly vertical. Typically unless I am tuning broadheads or a field archery/fita bow that will be shot out to 90 meters, I will leave the centershot where it is after the walkback tune.I may shoot one or two through paper at this point just to confirm that nothing awful is happening to the bow but that is about it.
If I am shooting broadheads, I will typically tune the way described above, and then will group tune the heads to see where different heads hit. I typically hunt with an expandable head primarily, but always have fixed heads in the quiver to shoot through blind mesh. I will tune the bow so both hit the same place by making minor adjustments until the groups come together at 40 yards. I will then make sure it is doing the same at 10, 20, 30, 40, and 50 yards.
If I am setting up a field archery/fita bow that is being shot out to 90 meters I will follow thewalkback tune steps first, but will make stops at 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60 yards to make sure the group keeps dropping vertically and doesn't move from side to side at different distances indicating spine problems with the arrow. Once I know it is dropping vertically, I will then step back to the point is which I am confident I can hold a pretty good group consistently (60 yards or so) and then I will group tune the arrow. Basically what I do there is shoot 5 arrow groups at a VERY large backstop, then record size of the group. Make a small finite adjustment to the rest, and see if the group opens up or shrinks. I will keep doing this and it is amazing to see how sometimes a tiny tiny tiny amount of adjustment can somehow really shrink the group up. When I find this "sweet spot" I tighten the rest down good, and then proceed to sight in the bow.
Hope this helps, and I certainly don't claim these are the best ways to do this stuff.......just what I do and have been taught.
02-06-2007, 02:01 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location:
Posts: 57
RE: Centershot
Matt I agree with most of what you say.
We had a Matthews switchback that would not shoot broadheads the same as field points no matter what we did to it. We found that the lower end of the riser was 1/4 in. out of alignment. after we bent the riser to make it in line, Broadheads will now shoot same hole accuracy. We did the same with 2 Hoyt protecs and both bows now are grouping both heads alike. putting your bow in a vise and bending the riser is not the smartest thing you could do, but when a particular bow refuses to be tuned. My first thought was hacksaw or vise? the vise won and I now have a bow that shoots both heads right where the sight is at release. Until someone comes up with a better alternative I will continue as is.
Thanks, GGBH
We had a Matthews switchback that would not shoot broadheads the same as field points no matter what we did to it. We found that the lower end of the riser was 1/4 in. out of alignment. after we bent the riser to make it in line, Broadheads will now shoot same hole accuracy. We did the same with 2 Hoyt protecs and both bows now are grouping both heads alike. putting your bow in a vise and bending the riser is not the smartest thing you could do, but when a particular bow refuses to be tuned. My first thought was hacksaw or vise? the vise won and I now have a bow that shoots both heads right where the sight is at release. Until someone comes up with a better alternative I will continue as is.
Thanks, GGBH
