For all you serious 3D shooters out there...
#21
mobow, I'd recommend as well to go with smaller than .029 fiber pins, they are too big when your aiming for a nock, hole or spot when your beyond 20 yards. I'd go with .019 and even .010 for farther. Viper sells them.
#22
Thanks Rob.....I agree, the .019 is the way to go.....I believe the Optix has that option as well.....again, I will run into availability problems.......This is where this small shop has it's problems, but he's catering to what he sells to....Sure does cut down my options some though.
#24
I guess that I go against the grain on the rest. I use the TT and have shot the spring steel, but man it gets real windy here and the spring steel won't hold the arrow on in the wind, so I went to a fall away original and that seems to work great. The only diffence I make, is to install an elastic hair holder deal from the hair care products section to the rest cord, which makes sure that it gets out of the way ( a little trick I picked up from Gillingham last year)
You can't go wrong with a sure-loc supreme if you want to shoot in that class. Another good one is the Shibuya.
I am not familiar with that bow, but an offset slide bar is on all of my bows to reduce the torque from the side.
Most shots on a 3-D range are between 25-35 yards. I try to shoot around a 9-10% foc to help stabilize the arrow the most. I find that I can shoot the highest x count with a little higher foc.
A trick that I was tought for yardage judging, was to sit and study 30 yards. If you can pinpoint the 30 yard spot in front of you, you can then figure where your target is in relation to the 30 yard mark. That means that you will be estimating within a 5 yard window on the average target.
Whatever sight you choose, make sure that it has second and 3rd axis adjustment, and get your level set for uphill and downhill shots.
Most targets sights will be a little heavier, and you may want to think about counter weight. I find the balance by pulling the bow back and anchoring with my eyes closed, I will them open and see where the bubble is. I want the bow level to sit in the middle without having to fight it.
It all depends mostlyon how muchtime you want to spend and how much it means to you.
You can't go wrong with a sure-loc supreme if you want to shoot in that class. Another good one is the Shibuya.
I am not familiar with that bow, but an offset slide bar is on all of my bows to reduce the torque from the side.
Most shots on a 3-D range are between 25-35 yards. I try to shoot around a 9-10% foc to help stabilize the arrow the most. I find that I can shoot the highest x count with a little higher foc.
A trick that I was tought for yardage judging, was to sit and study 30 yards. If you can pinpoint the 30 yard spot in front of you, you can then figure where your target is in relation to the 30 yard mark. That means that you will be estimating within a 5 yard window on the average target.
Whatever sight you choose, make sure that it has second and 3rd axis adjustment, and get your level set for uphill and downhill shots.
Most targets sights will be a little heavier, and you may want to think about counter weight. I find the balance by pulling the bow back and anchoring with my eyes closed, I will them open and see where the bubble is. I want the bow level to sit in the middle without having to fight it.
It all depends mostlyon how muchtime you want to spend and how much it means to you.
#25
#26
I agree with Rob/PA on the Viper and the pins with one exception. He talked me into ordering mine with .019 pins (1st and 2nd) and .010 (3rd & 4th). if I had it to do over.....I'd get .010 on ALL of them.
#27
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
From:
I'm not a pro to be sure, but I'm on my second full season of 3d and have messed around with it longer than that. Here's a few nuggets I've picked up:
1)Build the bow to the shooting class (high ata and high brace height).
2) First year - hunter class in a local club with low pressure to get your feet wet.
3) Micro adjust on everything.
4) Use fletching and nocks that blend on most targets.
5) 8.5X binos - it's the most IBO will allow.
6) Thermacell.
7) Folding Wally-World type chair with tubes taped to the legs for holding arrows.
8) Arrow lube and puller - don't leave home without it.
9) Lightest arrow allowed that shoots straight.
10) Set the third axis on sight window (rotating bench vice works nice).
11) Drop away rest that's reliable.
12) Adjust stabilization front to rear so the weight is slightly forward as held by a the upper cam.
13) Some side to side stabilization is better than none (class specific).
14) Some sort of back tension release - learn, you'll thank yourself.
15) Comfortable over the ankle boots.
16) Snacks and water.
17) GPS - don't ask.
18) Practice.
19) Practice.
20) Practice.
1)Build the bow to the shooting class (high ata and high brace height).
2) First year - hunter class in a local club with low pressure to get your feet wet.
3) Micro adjust on everything.
4) Use fletching and nocks that blend on most targets.
5) 8.5X binos - it's the most IBO will allow.
6) Thermacell.
7) Folding Wally-World type chair with tubes taped to the legs for holding arrows.
8) Arrow lube and puller - don't leave home without it.
9) Lightest arrow allowed that shoots straight.
10) Set the third axis on sight window (rotating bench vice works nice).
11) Drop away rest that's reliable.
12) Adjust stabilization front to rear so the weight is slightly forward as held by a the upper cam.
13) Some side to side stabilization is better than none (class specific).
14) Some sort of back tension release - learn, you'll thank yourself.
15) Comfortable over the ankle boots.
16) Snacks and water.
17) GPS - don't ask.
18) Practice.
19) Practice.
20) Practice.
#28
To echo the others, I'd be shooting a TT Spring Steel as well. My buddy has one on his elite and loves it! I'm also a huge advocate of sword sights, since I purchased mine from matt I've grown to love it. I don't think you could go wrong with the spott hog hogg-it with the hog wrap either...
Even if buckeye doesn't dig it
He SHOULD be digging a hole to crawl into, forafter I lay the Smackdown
Even if buckeye doesn't dig it
He SHOULD be digging a hole to crawl into, forafter I lay the Smackdown




