Compound or recurve?
#81
Joined: May 2006
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From:
idahoelkinstructor I've hunted antelope stalking and they're tough. I've done it myself elk hunting almost every year for the last 12 years and yes, it too is tough, but very do-able. I've killed several decent bulls, that was with compound though. 1st year I trad hunted for elk I shot over a nice 6x6 opening morning ARGHHH !
But yes, changing equipment isn't the only way to greater the hunt - leave the tree stand at home, the scent clothing, the blinds etc etc. is well worth it when the path less taken is taken isn't it ?
But yes, changing equipment isn't the only way to greater the hunt - leave the tree stand at home, the scent clothing, the blinds etc etc. is well worth it when the path less taken is taken isn't it ?
#82
Dominant Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,199
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From: Blossvale, New York
Mathews: OK, back to the original question. Well not the answer of course, that would be too easy.[8D]If you go the traditional route, get a copy of Byron Ferguson's book, Become the Arrow. It will really get you off to a good start if you follow his method and stick to it. Like I said, shortdistances in the beginning. Tape your big X on the target and have at it. I never tried any of his training aids, like the drawing aids etc because I had already killed a lot of deer the 24 yearsbefore the book came out. But his book is really good. I was a self taught recurve guy with my form coming off the movies or pictures. I purchased another recurve a couple years ago and wanted to change to improve so I bought Byrons book. It's really good. If you take the time and do as he says, like not over shooting, concentrate yada yada yada..... you'll be way ahead of the game. AND, it'll stay with you. Good luck.
#83
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 250
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From: Forest, Ontario
Thanks guys. I really appreciate all the help you guys have given. Although the topic might have strayed just a little, thats perfectly fine with me. I think I am going to go the recurve route. I'd like to do compound too but can't afford that much after spending over a grand at Cabela's the other day. You know what I mean.

#84
Dominant Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,199
Likes: 1
From: Blossvale, New York
Get the book and get the best recurve you can afford. You know a really great recurve or long bow will cost more than most compounds. For a first bow, don't blow your money paying extra for something like a take down. Just buy a great one piecer to begin with.
#85
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 449
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From:
I've went through a LOT of bows ......... some fit and some didn't I always gravitated to 3 piece TD longbows for their combination of quietness, shootability, good speeds and nice balances between recurve/longbows.
I'd suggest a 62"-64" bow in teh low 50 pound range @ 28". Assuming you're not terribly short armed or long armed, a bow like that would suit you well. $300-400 buys you a very nice used higher end recurve, whereas a higher end compound is a few hundred more.
PM me and I'll give you some web sites to browse and make reccomendations etc if you'd like
I'd suggest a 62"-64" bow in teh low 50 pound range @ 28". Assuming you're not terribly short armed or long armed, a bow like that would suit you well. $300-400 buys you a very nice used higher end recurve, whereas a higher end compound is a few hundred more.
PM me and I'll give you some web sites to browse and make reccomendations etc if you'd like
#86
What would you recommend for a recurve if you shoot a bare bow 30" arrow @ 72#? How does a recurve differ from a compound as far as your setup. I know there's no let-off so that high a draw weight is not good, but what other differences are there?
#87
Dominant Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,199
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From: Blossvale, New York
Byron Ferguson recommends that if you are going from a compound to a traditional type bow you should figure on something about 15 pounds less than you're use to shooting.Also, do to differences in draw, anchor shooting styles your draw length will be 1-2 inches shorter. All traditional equipmentis measured as X pounds at 28 inches. Of course if your draw is longer you'll be pulling more than the listed pounds so take that into consideration(shorter draw than 28 will be less poundage to pull). I like 55 to 60 pounds but that's me. I'd say at least get a 50 pound so you can hunt comfortably with it and expect it to kill something. Again, I prefer at least 55.
#88
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,982
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From: Inverness, MS
Talondale,
A lot depends on bow design..... There are bows out there that will out perform others bows that may be 10lbs heavier.... For instance, you could get the same perfomance from a 45lb bow as you would from a 55lb bow... The less weight you can use and get the same desired performance, the better IMO....
55lbs will be tough for you to handle at first..... Your shoulders have to adjust to the way a trad bow draws..... But it can be done.... Take your time and work your way into it.... I prefer bows in the 48-52 lb range.... Those bows will kill anything in N. America..... It's all about shot placement.
A lot depends on bow design..... There are bows out there that will out perform others bows that may be 10lbs heavier.... For instance, you could get the same perfomance from a 45lb bow as you would from a 55lb bow... The less weight you can use and get the same desired performance, the better IMO....
55lbs will be tough for you to handle at first..... Your shoulders have to adjust to the way a trad bow draws..... But it can be done.... Take your time and work your way into it.... I prefer bows in the 48-52 lb range.... Those bows will kill anything in N. America..... It's all about shot placement.
#89
Dominant Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,199
Likes: 1
From: Blossvale, New York
55lbs will be tough for you to handle at first
Yes it would be easier to learn with a 48-50 pound bow, but that extra 5-7 pounds would be nice for hunting. He won't be holding the weight for more than a second or two. I was trying to avoid having to buy another bow in 6 months.
#90
Dominant Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 26,274
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From: land of the Lilliputians, In the state of insanity
ORIGINAL: davidmil
Byron Ferguson recommends that if you are going from a compound to a traditional type bow you should figure on something about 15 pounds less than you're use to shooting.Also, do to differences in draw, anchor shooting styles your draw length will be 1-2 inches shorter. All traditional equipmentis measured as X pounds at 28 inches. Of course if your draw is longer you'll be pulling more than the listed pounds so take that into consideration(shorter draw than 28 will be less poundage to pull). I like 55 to 60 pounds but that's me. I'd say at least get a 50 pound so you can hunt comfortably with it and expect it to kill something. Again, I prefer at least 55.
Byron Ferguson recommends that if you are going from a compound to a traditional type bow you should figure on something about 15 pounds less than you're use to shooting.Also, do to differences in draw, anchor shooting styles your draw length will be 1-2 inches shorter. All traditional equipmentis measured as X pounds at 28 inches. Of course if your draw is longer you'll be pulling more than the listed pounds so take that into consideration(shorter draw than 28 will be less poundage to pull). I like 55 to 60 pounds but that's me. I'd say at least get a 50 pound so you can hunt comfortably with it and expect it to kill something. Again, I prefer at least 55.


