Rangeball

Minute of pie plate is great, as long as the deer doesn't move, or you don't hit a limb, etc. Then your shot at the edge of the pie plate could become a gut shot or worse.

I want my arrow to hit where my pin is in a hunting situation. Practice until you are as accurate as possible at a given distance, then limit your shots to that distance and below.

I had a one pin set up that allowed me a 6" kill zone, 3" up and 3" down, out to about 35 yards. I've since gone to a pendulum, as it will put my arrow where the pin is, shrinking my kill zone and increasing my margin for arrow should a variable change. See the spot, hit the spot, is what I strive for.

JWhite

ijimmy,

I am shooting fairly light arrows with 100gr heads at 235fps. (61# draw wt)
What two blade are you referring too?

BOWFANATIC

You should go into the woods with the confidence of knowing your going to hit where you aim and knowing your limitations.

BTW , the whisker biscuit is no less accurate than any other rest that I've found. In regards to accuracy , very rarely is poor accuracy the fault of the equipment when you have a properly tuned bow.

"Nocked,cocked & ready to rock"

ijimmy

JWhite magnus ,ziwicky , or simmons. Some like steel fource but they did not do as well in 5shoots test he he knows broadheads better than most . I used magnus 100 grain last year and took 2 deer very clean and fast. It was the first year I did not have to track them .I watched both deer fall from my stand .

If information provided by the members of this board have helped you please let us know .

DaveC

Just a tip if you don't allready know this.
I mark my muzzy 100 tipped arrows on the fletching with a small marker. I put a 1 and a 1.5 on my arrows depending on the consistancy of their accuracy. The arrows that continually hit dead on get a 1 and if there within 1.5" off at 20yds they get a 1.5 anything less than that- the broadhead comes off the arrow and it does not enter my quiver. I have used this system for years and it is a confidence booster when I look at my bow with an arrow knocked on it with a 1 designation. This year I have two 1+ arrows that will be my first to get used, they just seemed to do no wrong.
Good luck to ya!!

Lady Forge

I shoot one of the lighter bows ( Parker UL31 )with the 57lb draw weight with 344 grain arrows with the 4 blade steelforce broadheads and the 3 blade Satelite straight razor broadheads and( Forge Lighting Strike ) it works great out to 40 yards, I get 2-3 inch groups at 40 yards,and a few robin hoods at 30 and 20 yards, I have also taken deer with other less poundage setups , so much for the lighter set up not being worth much I also like DaveC mark my arrows on the fletching according to grain weight and straightness from the arrow spinner and on best true flight. I also find it gives me that added little boost when I look at the arrow that I have built so much confidence in when Im ready to harvest the deer or on the 3D range. I feel I owe the deer to be the most accurate I can be.

Roland from Calif.

I find that you also need to add a small fudge factor for shooting at live game of at least 50%. So if you're shooting 5" groups at 20 yards you can realistically expect something in the neighborhood of 7.5" in real life. In my opinion you should also get a 3D deer target so you are actually shooting at something that doesn't have a bullseye on it. Call me anal but it is the small things that make the difference in being successful archery hunting. Everyone else has also passed on some good ideas. One more might be to take a few shots from your tree stand at a 3d deer target if possible, and remember the distance to the deer from your stand is from the base of tree to the deer not your line of sight.