Have patience. Always prep the shaft first, this cleans off any grime and the prep conditioners on the market today cause the coating and glue to adhere to the shaft better. Remember when you dip a shaft the first coat must be with a white base coat. Allow the laquer to drop for about 20 seconds, if it drips longer then you have to thicken the laquer and if it stops less than 20 seconds you may have to add laquer to thicken the coat. Plan on dipping each shaft at least two times per color. I have found that making my last coat in clear blue adds to both the brightness of the dip as well as its durability. Seems to resist more scuffing. Cresting takes more practice, the Bohning kits (and included instructions) are real good. As far as fletching is concerned, I have always used Blitzenbergers. They are very solid and the clamps lock down where you want them to. When fletching vanes, remember to use a little acetone on a rag and wipe down the bottom of the vane where you place the glue. This cleans that area of the vane and allow it to dry for a couple minutes before gluing it up. The allows the vanes to adhere to the shaft better. Feathers do not need this done before gluing. If you are re-fletching a bare shaft make sure the surface is cleaned off, Sanders makes a nice tool called a de-vaner which strips the old fletching off, after useing this tool(or a dull blade) wipe the shaft down with either one of the shaft preps or acetone works great. Use enough glue, I also place a tab of glue on both ends of the fletching after I remove the completed arrow from the jig. I must say that I will always do my own fletching but have been useing the eze-eye crest wraps and like them alot. I' ve been making my own arrows for over 25 years and it' s a lot of fun.
Good Luck

I like the Bitzeburger fletcher and also the J-8 from Martin (about half the price of the Bitz). I never cap dip arrows any more. It adds weight and extra diameter to the back of the shaft, shifting the FOC. If aluminum, I don' t even see the point in cresting unless one wishes to be able to more easily identify your arrows from other similar generic aluminum shafts. Wood is a different story, but I stain the cap and crest with Sharpies instead of paint (again, to keep the weight down).

Wraps work good, but as mentioned are expensive. However, it' s possible (and relatively simple) to make your own cresting wraps using your computer and vinyl sign material. Put together your own design - print it on the vinyl, cut it out, peel it and apply it to your shafting. Feathers and vanes stick great to the stuff and when refletching it' s a heck of a lot easier to scrape or peel the vinyl off your shaft than it is to scrape off the fletching glue.

Also... for most materials, I' ve found Lok-Tite quick set gel (little silver space-ship looking bottle with silver squeezing tabs on each side) is about as good a fletching cement for all type of shaft materials as was ever made. It' s readily available at Home Depot for less than 2 bucks, works great and makes it easier to lay a perfect thin bead on a fletch than anything else I' ve ever used.

Just some of my thoughts on this.