Have patience. Always prep the shaft first, this cleans off any grime and the prep conditioners on the market today cause the coating and glue to adhere to the shaft better. Remember when you dip a shaft the first coat must be with a white base coat. Allow the laquer to drop for about 20 seconds, if it drips longer then you have to thicken the laquer and if it stops less than 20 seconds you may have to add laquer to thicken the coat. Plan on dipping each shaft at least two times per color. I have found that making my last coat in clear blue adds to both the brightness of the dip as well as its durability. Seems to resist more scuffing. Cresting takes more practice, the Bohning kits (and included instructions) are real good. As far as fletching is concerned, I have always used Blitzenbergers. They are very solid and the clamps lock down where you want them to. When fletching vanes, remember to use a little acetone on a rag and wipe down the bottom of the vane where you place the glue. This cleans that area of the vane and allow it to dry for a couple minutes before gluing it up. The allows the vanes to adhere to the shaft better. Feathers do not need this done before gluing. If you are re-fletching a bare shaft make sure the surface is cleaned off, Sanders makes a nice tool called a de-vaner which strips the old fletching off, after useing this tool(or a dull blade) wipe the shaft down with either one of the shaft preps or acetone works great. Use enough glue, I also place a tab of glue on both ends of the fletching after I remove the completed arrow from the jig. I must say that I will always do my own fletching but have been useing the eze-eye crest wraps and like them alot. I' ve been making my own arrows for over 25 years and it' s a lot of fun.
Good Luck