shooting from the bank. any tips?
#1
I'm not fortunate to have a fishing boat yet so i'll be limited to the bank for awhile. I know a couple good spots on a backwater of the Kanawha River i used to catch white bass that the carp loved to sun themselves. I'll try there first, hopefully they still go there. BIG carp too and an occasional gar BIG gar!!! Those are the only fish we are allowed to shoot in WV. there is no limit either.
Any tips? Should I use a retriever like the AMS or a spincast like the zebco?
Going to stop in the archery shop today to see if they have anything. Have to get the rest on my tribute looked at/changed.......
thanks guys for helping out a soon to be rookie!
Any tips? Should I use a retriever like the AMS or a spincast like the zebco?
Going to stop in the archery shop today to see if they have anything. Have to get the rest on my tribute looked at/changed.......
thanks guys for helping out a soon to be rookie!
#2
Id go ahead and get a slotted ams. that way you can shoot big gar when the time comes. I used to bank fish all the time. Get a backpack but a trolling battery in it and hook up a spot light to it. just walk the bank.
#3
Cartman, either type of reel will work for you.
I'm currently Floatational Vehicle Challenged myself.
Bank bowfishing and some recent wading are mostly what I do, so I know what you are about to get into.
The differences in reel styles are an endless topic of discussion (as I'm sure you can tell). The AMS will be the more trouble-free, reliable, and long-term-cheaperof the two (he said as he shot another fish with his spincast).
I honestly use both. I recommend the AMS (and hand wound spools)for those starting out since they are pretty easy to use. Most people who use the spools are just starting out and will soon upgrade, or don't know there are other options.
I love my spincast for boating and wading, but I find it can be a pain whenever I'm hikinga bank with lots of vegetation. I get by, but it seems the handle is always getting bumped on stuff (including my leg), causing the bale to engage. If I don't hit the buttonagain before I shoot, I'll lose an arrow or scramble the gears of my reel. If you choose a spincast, buy 2, and take the spare with you in the car.
Anyway, you wanted tips...
Polarized Glasses! Didn't want to forget that.
Also, visibilty isbest when the sun is overhead or at your back. If you use the dark reflection of shaded trees on the opposite shore you can see in the water better too.
Walk quietly and carry a fiberglass shaft. Depending on the shoreline, there may be carp right up next to the waterline sucking on weeds or sunning. You'll want to be quiet in your movements since vibrations on the bank easily spook fish that would have been easy targets. Keep scanning the water. Things change quickly if it is murky. Fish appear and disappear without a sound, and don't forget to look down in front of you. They are often closer than you expect. If you wade very carefully, you might even step on one.
Pull thearrow in quickly. The sooner you get your fish or arrowout of the water, the quicker the restof the fish will return and present shot opportunities. Although it is tempting to study the water right after a shot, the most important task is to get your bow back into shooting condition. It won't matter how many fish are in front of you or where that one that you missed went, until you are ready to take the next shot. Focus on your equipment first, unless you are spotting for a teammate or using the opportunity to study how the fish run after getting scared.
Have a plan foryour fish. Even a few get pretty heavy on a stringer. Know which fish you will keep, and which you will toss. If your fishing area does not allow for you to leavesome fishas food for critters without someone else having to smell it, then don'tshoot more in a day than you are willing to carry out. Freeze them at home to cut down on the smell.
I use some for fertilizer every spring, but just the meat, guts, and eggs.
I've found that using the whole fishor large piecesleaves hollow cavities and air pockets which are not good for the plants you were trying to help.
Have a plan for your gear. You may wish to carry things like snacks, water, arrows, points, fish-whacker stick, water, a stringer(s), scale, water, knife, gaff, camera, tripod, water, and other stuff with you. If you hike very far, you'll need a way to get it there. In a boat, it is easy to keep everything at hand, but on land, you get to play pack mule. Most guys that I know go very simply and keep the bulk of their stuff in the car, but I usually like to carry a spare arrow, some water (did I mention that?), a gaff, and that's about it. The water bottle goes in my pocket, and the rest goes in a cheapo hip quiver turned backwards so it doesn't get caught on as many plants. If I'm going to stay out longer, or I know I'm going to leave the fish back in there, I'll bring other things like the snacks and camera.
After getting a hit... bring the fish ashore where there are fewer weeds and sticks so he doesn't get tangled up. You'll be amazed just how quickly and thoroughly an arrowed can become hopelessly snagged. Since the arrows are pricey, be prepared to go in after one when it is eventually called for.
Be patient, and bring a sense of humor. Without the freedom a boat gives you to persue the fish, you're restricted to about 30 feet from shore. Sometimes you won't see any fish at all, and some days you'll see a lot of them...just out of reach.
I'm currently Floatational Vehicle Challenged myself.
Bank bowfishing and some recent wading are mostly what I do, so I know what you are about to get into. The differences in reel styles are an endless topic of discussion (as I'm sure you can tell). The AMS will be the more trouble-free, reliable, and long-term-cheaperof the two (he said as he shot another fish with his spincast).
I honestly use both. I recommend the AMS (and hand wound spools)for those starting out since they are pretty easy to use. Most people who use the spools are just starting out and will soon upgrade, or don't know there are other options.
I love my spincast for boating and wading, but I find it can be a pain whenever I'm hikinga bank with lots of vegetation. I get by, but it seems the handle is always getting bumped on stuff (including my leg), causing the bale to engage. If I don't hit the buttonagain before I shoot, I'll lose an arrow or scramble the gears of my reel. If you choose a spincast, buy 2, and take the spare with you in the car.
Anyway, you wanted tips...
Polarized Glasses! Didn't want to forget that.
Also, visibilty isbest when the sun is overhead or at your back. If you use the dark reflection of shaded trees on the opposite shore you can see in the water better too.
Walk quietly and carry a fiberglass shaft. Depending on the shoreline, there may be carp right up next to the waterline sucking on weeds or sunning. You'll want to be quiet in your movements since vibrations on the bank easily spook fish that would have been easy targets. Keep scanning the water. Things change quickly if it is murky. Fish appear and disappear without a sound, and don't forget to look down in front of you. They are often closer than you expect. If you wade very carefully, you might even step on one.
Pull thearrow in quickly. The sooner you get your fish or arrowout of the water, the quicker the restof the fish will return and present shot opportunities. Although it is tempting to study the water right after a shot, the most important task is to get your bow back into shooting condition. It won't matter how many fish are in front of you or where that one that you missed went, until you are ready to take the next shot. Focus on your equipment first, unless you are spotting for a teammate or using the opportunity to study how the fish run after getting scared.
Have a plan foryour fish. Even a few get pretty heavy on a stringer. Know which fish you will keep, and which you will toss. If your fishing area does not allow for you to leavesome fishas food for critters without someone else having to smell it, then don'tshoot more in a day than you are willing to carry out. Freeze them at home to cut down on the smell.
I use some for fertilizer every spring, but just the meat, guts, and eggs.
I've found that using the whole fishor large piecesleaves hollow cavities and air pockets which are not good for the plants you were trying to help.
Have a plan for your gear. You may wish to carry things like snacks, water, arrows, points, fish-whacker stick, water, a stringer(s), scale, water, knife, gaff, camera, tripod, water, and other stuff with you. If you hike very far, you'll need a way to get it there. In a boat, it is easy to keep everything at hand, but on land, you get to play pack mule. Most guys that I know go very simply and keep the bulk of their stuff in the car, but I usually like to carry a spare arrow, some water (did I mention that?), a gaff, and that's about it. The water bottle goes in my pocket, and the rest goes in a cheapo hip quiver turned backwards so it doesn't get caught on as many plants. If I'm going to stay out longer, or I know I'm going to leave the fish back in there, I'll bring other things like the snacks and camera.
After getting a hit... bring the fish ashore where there are fewer weeds and sticks so he doesn't get tangled up. You'll be amazed just how quickly and thoroughly an arrowed can become hopelessly snagged. Since the arrows are pricey, be prepared to go in after one when it is eventually called for.
Be patient, and bring a sense of humor. Without the freedom a boat gives you to persue the fish, you're restricted to about 30 feet from shore. Sometimes you won't see any fish at all, and some days you'll see a lot of them...just out of reach.
#4
wow!! thanks for the info!! That's about all i need to know to get started!! I'm getting my ducks in a row to get all the stuff i need.
thanks again.
thanks again.
#5
An absolute must for the bankfisherman are the polarized-glasses and patience. Walk very slowly, and scan ahead as far as you can see. A common mistake of beginning-shorebound-bowfishermen is looking in the water directly even with them. By the time they see fish, the fish usually see them too. If you scan ahead, you'll see MUCH more fish.
#6
I found that if you scare a fish out wait a few minutes because he will return to the sot. I hunt a spot that has several uprooted trees and the carp hide in there out of the current or wind. When I spook them out I just sit and wait and they return only to be missed by me.
The other spot I hunt is shallow so I wear hip boots and wade out. The bigger carp I found are out further and smaller ones stay close to shore.
The other spot I hunt is shallow so I wear hip boots and wade out. The bigger carp I found are out further and smaller ones stay close to shore.




