"My name is skydiver, I am a MLing-oloic". Your hooked, welcome to the ML addiction club! Now go shoot a 1" group with that new RMC! Smart move on ditching the pellets.
Chap Gleason

I am very suspicious of an "expert" who sells someone pellets to load a flintlock. There are a couple flintlocks that are "designed" to use pellets, but I have heard some stories about them that would tend to damagemy confidence in such contraptions.

It is best to shoot REAL black powder in a flintlock, and real BP is MANDATORY for the pan priming charge. Any time any kind of black powder substitute powder is used in a flintlock, it is wise to use about 10-grains of real black powder in the bore first, and load thesubstitute on top of this charge. This approach might even make pellets work, I never tried that! I am prejudiced against pellets. It is much easier to findreally accurate loads using loose powder and an adjustable volume powder measure, as you can make much smaller incremental changes as you work on developing the load.

I have one with both the 28" and 24" 1/28 twist barrels for it. I shoot 100 grains of Goex 2f and a 300 grains xtp in a short black mmp sabot in the longer barrel; the carbine barrel is sighted in with the 250 grain xtp, same sabot with 90 grains of 2f. Both will do 2" at 100 yards. The barrels are a bit large for conicals and Power Belts though but yours may be tight fitting enough for them; just have to try them and see. I have been told the Hornady Great Plains bullets shoot real well with a mmp sub-base under them; I have the stuff just have not tried it yet. The Great Plains 385 hp's will do around 4" at 100 yards but you will have to push them with 100 grains of 2f to get the accuracy; with the sub-base I may be able to cut it back some and still get good accuracy-we will see.

I am going to get some Gold dots and Swiss 2f to try out soon. These are great little flintlocks. I have also shot some Barnes 245 spitfires and the accuracy was very good as well but they need 1100 f.p.s. to open and that's about what they are running at 100 yards with Goex black.The Gold dots look like just the ticket for real black velocity and I imagine they will shoot as good as the Hornady stuff. I am going to order some Gold Dots in .452 250/300 grainers and some .429 210 grainers as well. I will keep you posted on how they do. Almost anything in a sabot is good out of these barrels but mmp's are the only ones I have tried.

Use real black powder in that flintlock. Triple 7 will work but will have slower ignition. If you were priming the pan with that stuff i am amazed you got it to fire at all. Real black lights off at 300c andTriple 7 is probably around 370c; I am surprised a flinter can do it consistantly.If youwant the velocity advantage of Triple 7 then buy Swiss brand powder in 2f grain size. Goex will be around 170 f.p.s. slower than a Swiss 100 grain load. Ditch the Triple 7 and shoot real black. There is no advantage to Triple 7 in a flinter. Consistant ignition and velocity is what you need to shoot flinters accurately and nothing is better than real black powder. Prime with 4f, barrel charges should be 2f in a .50 but many people use 3f. The 3f is hotter, faster and will give higher pressures. If you use 3f it's harder on your barrel and if you don't swab between shots there will be more standard deviation in regards to velocity between shots.

The best accuracy with sabots comes from a clean bore. Here is how to do it. Swab the bore clean until your dry patch is clean,drop your powder down the bore, put your bullet in the sabot and use a short starter to drive itin about 5" or so, use theramrod to seat it on the charge with the same pressure every time, now take alighty lubed cleaning patch and run that down the bore and back out. No gobs of lube just a thin coating; thats it. If you insist on using triple7 as a main charge don't use any lube after the sabot is down the bore because it justaids the formingof a crud ring which isconsistant with the use of Triple7 substitute powder. A compressed charge will yeild more velocity but ignition is not as fast or consistant in time frame.Leave a little air between grains of charge but thesabot must be on the charge.A light crunch is best.

Put another 16 rounds through today. Kept myself @ 60 Yds and shot groups of Powerbelts 223, 249, and 295. Also shot a group of 250 Shochwaves. I used up the Trip 7 in the flask and switched to Goex @ 100 grains. The 295 PB gave me the tighest accurcy (1 1/2+ group) but it was also the last group shot and I was defantly getting more comfortable with the gun at this point. Thanks to all who have given advise, it has really helped with the learning process of both this specific gun but also ML overall.

This might help you out a bit.

http://members.aye.net/~bspen/flintlockfaq.html