HD Road King

What type of lube would be best to start out with for a patch lube? Would that recipe for Cayugads Moose milk be a good thing to try? I think that he described it as a dry type patch. Do they then require any other lubing thefore loading the gun? They sound like they would be the least amount of mess for shooting.I have read somewhere that the Crisco works good as a lube also, sounds like it could be a messy type lube though. I would think that lubing the patches myself will be the cheapest route. What do you guy's do to usually avoid the least mess on your hands when handeling these lubed patches? I wish Spring was a little closer, I want to try some shooting.

Would purchasing the pillow ticking be the best patching material or would it be best to go with the pre-cut patches? This is all going to be a new learning experience for me, but it is really looking like a lot of fun!

Mike

cayugad

The lube called moose milk can be used wet or dry. If you use it wet, just don't soak the patch and shoot ASAP. For instance on the range it works good because it kind of swabs the barrel at the same time.

Another lube is Bore butter. As much as people like it or hate it, it does make a good patch lube. Another one is Crisco Shortening. Just do not use it on HOT days as the lube will break down real bad.

Another lube is go to the sporting goods or shoe store and get some Mink Oil. It works just fine as a patch lube. Another lube I have tried is Permatexhand cleaner made with lanolin. It works as a lube, cleans the barrel and makes your hands clean and soft all at the same time.

I also make a hard lube for conicals that can be used on patches as well. It's made with Castor oil, bees wax, and Murphy's oil soap.

Solid Lube Formula[/b]

2 ounces of Bees Wax
8 ounces of Castor Oil
1 ounce Murphy’s Oil Soap

Using a double boiler system, melt the bees wax. While keeping the wax liquid, heat the Castor oil with the double boiler also. Then mix the two together. Stir them together and while doing this a scum will form. You need to scrap the scum off the liquid. Once the scum is scraped off the mix, then add the Murphy’s Oil Soap and stir fast while it is melted. This will make a nice frothy appearance and very smooth. Pour the mix into containers and it will set up in a couple hours.

Another home made lube is called Junior Lube.


HOW TO MAKE JUNIOR LUBE[/b][/ul]
· exactly 3 fluid ozs of melted lard
· exactly 400 grs of solid beeswax
· exactly 100 grs of Alox solid bullet lube.


this makes a good solid lube and works excellent for patched roundball. It also reduces fowling and I only made one batch and have not played with it enough to totally recommend it to anyone. I want to shoot it some more.

Another lube is olive oil. Take a small amount and smear it on your patch working it into the material. it will work real good. Or you can melt it with some beeswax to make a more solid try substance.

I melted paraffin canning wax once, added olive oil to that and Murphy's oil soap and made a good patch lube, conical lube, and boot waterproofer out of it..

Last is good old fashioned spit. Put the patch in your mouth and suck on it for a while. Then when it gets damp, just use it. It probably was one of the first lubes out there.


I heard from a friend (who works there)that Wal Mart is thinking of selling off their material department. I purchase my pillow tick there. It seems the stuff does not have a big and fast enough turn around, takes up a lot of store space, and demands a full time employee in the section. So when they sell out, I am getting a whole BOLT of material of the pillow tick. That to me is still the cheapest and best way to make patch material.

HD Road King

Thanks Dave,

I am going to write down those recipes in my notebook, they will be very handy down the road. They gave me about a 2' piece of the ticking material to try out. I think that I will check out the WalMart here also for some of that. I had no idea what pillow ticking actually looked like until I got this strip. Do you just run the strips of ticking through your mixture of pre-melted lube and then let them drip out and dry. Do you just roll the strips back up and keep them rolled until out at the range or hunting. I like the idea of that moose milk, although the lanolin soap might be nice also, especially during these Winter Months. I think that I remember reading a post where thay were using sno-seal, would this and the mink oil be the same stuff used for boots?

When you use the ticking what do you trim the patch with, a little scissor or a razor type knife? I don't think that my pocket knife is even close to being sharp enough for trimming that material. Do these patches need to be trimmed always in the same size or would that not be a factor in accuracy?

Now I am going to have to figure out what I will tell me wife that I am cooking up in the kitchen. That might be a good project for when she is away for the day. She might not like me usingherkettles for this project.

Mike

cayugad

After I wash the material, I then tear off a long strip. I then lay that out and smear the solid lube into one strip and work that into the material. You can then roll that up and take it hunting with you.

When I do the moose milk, I wet the strip of the material and then lay it out on window screen and let it dry. Then you can take that and place it in a zip lock storage bag and take it hunting.

They actually sell Mink Oil for patch lube at TOTW but I have used the stuff you waterproof your hunting boots with for the same thing. Snowseal will also work well.

I trim the patch on the range with a cheap pair of scissors. When I hunt I trim it with my hunting knife. The patches actually come out very close to identical size if you just cut the material right off at the muzzle.

A double boiler can be as simple as one large can with a smaller can put into that. There is not a lot of need to use all the wife's dishes. I guess a person could make some of this in the microwave as well...

HD Road King

Thanks again Dave,
I am going to get a few yards of that pillow ticking and brew up some of the moose milk next week sometime. I think that I had better do the 2 different size cans idea. My wife gets kind of upset when I use the kitchen stuff for projects other than what they are intended for. Although her little ting craft scissors might be making a trip out to the range until I get my own.

Mike

Sharp Shooter

DO NOT use the mink oil for your boots. It has some stuff in it that is not good on the bore. Get the stuff from TOTW. That is what I have

Another one is Lehigh Valley. I really like that for at the range. And yes, Sno-Seal should work.

TOTW has Lehigh Valley and Mink Oil. Mink Oil is good in Cold Weather. I like Lehigh better at the range than for hunting. Try some of each.

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(ogfzu455q35denveczngmen4))/categories/partList.aspx?catID=5&subID=64&styleID=216

HD Road King

Thanks Sharp Shooter,
I need to get better versed at these ML short cut words. I was trying to figure out what TOTW was for a store. I only live about an hour away from Track of the Wolf and I need to go there for some black powder anyways. I am going to pick up some of that Mink oil for just trying the gun out. Unless I just pick up a bottle of Olive oil from the grocery store.

I am going to brew up some of the Moose Milk as soon as I can cook it with the windows open.

Mike

tkstae

Same here. I've already bought and washed the pillow ticking. I'm headed to the store tomorrow for the stuff I need for the moose milk. I'm looking forward to giving it a try.

lemoyne

Bore butter or Sperm oil

HD Road King

Is that an extract from whale blubber? Where do you get that stuff, possibly a tack store?

Mike