Wimuzzleman

My step father has a traditions deerhunter flintlock he would like to use this year in Pa. We know nothing about flintlocks. I could use some advice (loads, projectiles, and some tricks of the trade.) any advice would be appricated.

nchawkeye

First off...I would check the lock...You should only use real black powder...I have used both Goex FFF and FFFF in the pan...MAKE SURE THE GUN IS NOT LOADED...Drop the ramrod down the barrel, mark it, take it out and lay the ramrod on top of the barrel and see if the mark lines up with the back of the barrel...Or slide a paper clip into the touch hole and make sure its lean...You could even pour some rubbing alcohol down the barrel and see if it runs out of the touch hole...Clean the frizzen with rubbing alcohol to make sure there is no oil on it which can affect sparking...Now shut the frizzen, bring the hammer to full cock and see if it sparks...If it does fill the pan half full and see if you get enough sparks to light the pan...If you do, great, if not you might have to knap the flint, change flints or other things...

Assuming that your flintlock gives good ignition you next should make sure the touch hole is open...you can use a pipe cleaner or paper clip to check...If a .50 caliber buy some .490 balls, if a .54 buy .530 balls...Also buy some patches, most are .015 or .018 thickness....You might have to vary the diameter balls and patches for best accuracy...Also buy a powder measure...I would start with a light charge...50 grains will be enough for either a .50 or a .54...Make sure the barrel is clean and pour down .50 grains of powder...Grease up some patches...There are alot of patch lubes you can try....Bore Butter, SnoSeal, Crisco etc...grease one side of the patch and put the greased side down, center the ball and start it down the barrel (some guys use a short started to get it started) then ram the patched ball down on top of the powder with the ramrod...Make sure the ball is seated firmly on the powder...

Start with a close target (25 yards) and see how close you hit to the target...I would do this several times to get used to the gun...Clean between each shot...Use rubbing alcohol, dampen two patches and run down the barrel on your barrel jag, use both sides, run a dry patch next, then one lubed with your patch lube and then a dry patch....Then start working up the powder charge....80-100 grains is plenty for whitetails...When you find a good accurate loading, start to regulate the sights...File down the front sight to raise the point of impact, raise or lower the rear sight to raise or lower the ball impact...and tap either to center the ball left or right...For deer, I sight in 2 inches high at 50 yards...You will be close to dead on at 75 (with 80-100grs of powder) and 2 inches or so at 100...Which should be your maximum range with open sights and a patched ball...

This process will probably take several range sessions....That's the basics....If you run into a problem...Post on here....Good Luck...

HEAD0001

The previous thread was exceptional, I can only add a couple of fine tuning points. My round ball load is 70 gr. of 3F blackpowder. You will learn that on humid rainy days less powder burns in the barrel, when you get really good ask someone to explain a snow or white paper test to you. I use 7F in the pan. 4F works great, 7F works even better. Also make sure to only fill the pan 1/2 way. It is smart not to completely cover the flashole, plus this guarantees the the pan cover closes. Do not over fill the pan. If you fill the pan 1/2 way, and hold your rifle properly, you will never have a problem with the rifle not firing, Tom.

RobertSubnet

The other 2 posts were quite good. Some additional comments.

Get yourself a pan primer. This is a brass tube with a plunger on the end. You unscrew this and pour in your priming powder. When you need to add powder to the pan, turn the pan primer upside down, press the plunger against the pan and this will release a small amount of the powder-repeat as necessary.

Flintlocks are meant to shoot black powder. There are substitute powders, Triple 7, etc., however these substitute powders are more difficult to ignite than traditional black powder. The spark from the flint is typically not sufficient to ignite these substitute powders with any real degree of reliability. (In my experience that is. There are some real experts here who may have very different results than my own.)

Your best results will be from using 4F black powder in the pan and 2 or 3 F black powder down the pipe.

Goex is the most readily available black powder brand name. In many areas it is difficult to find. Here in Arizona, it is classified as an explosive. As such there are all sorts of laws regarding its storage. Often times these are prohibitively expensive for the retailer. So they do not bother to stock the genuine black powder. Substitute powders are not considered an explosive, so it is easier/cheaper for retailers to stock and sell.

If Goex is not available in your area (its not in Arizona), you can order it online from Powder Inc. The link:

www.powderinc.com

Currently I am at work and the firewall may block that link (bastards!).

I have bought powder from them in the past and they are very helpful. You will need to provide proof of age (fax a photocopy of your drivers license to them) and they will keep that on file. UPS will require a signature from an adult when they ship to you. They only ship UPS.

Now it is possible to shoot with substitute powder and a flintlock. The most common and successful method is accomplished with what is called ignition loads. It works like this:

Lets say you are shooting 80 grains of 3F.

First pour 10 grains of Goex 3F down the barrel. Tap the sides of the barrel, down the length of the barrel to make sure the Goex is all the way on the bottom of the barrel.

Then

pour your remaining 70 grains of 3F substitute powder down the barrel. Finish loading and prime with 4F black powder.

The 4F will set off the 10 grains of black powder, this in turn will set off the remainder of the charge. The 10 grains of 3F provide the additional explosive energy needed to set off the main charge that just the 4F priming charge alone cannot accomplish.

Don't worry, you won't notice a delay!

Shooting with an "ignition charge" will take longer to load. However it will enable you to use the more readily available substitute powders and save your black powder. I use an ignition charge when plinking. And all black powder only when working on accuracy.

When using an ignition charge, I keep two measures handy. 1 a pistol measure set to 10 grains, the 2nd my regular measure set to the remaining powder charge. This helps to speed up the process.

Other thoughts:

A flintlock can fire upside down. You may even want to try this sometime. If you do, be sure to wear a fireproof LONG SLEEVE shirt to protect your arm. Otherwise you will burn the crap out of yourself-as I learned one hot summer day while out in the desert wearing shorts...

Be careful firing at night. The bright flash in the pan can be blinding at night. This to I learned the hard way...

Bring spare flints to the range. Be prepared to draw lots of attention and answer lots of questions. There aren't many of us rock lock shooters out there.

When knapping, leave the flint in the lock and gently tap the flint. Don't worry if you wreck your first several dozen flints learning to knap. I still have difficulty getting it right.

And finally and most importantly:

HAVE FUN!

Flintlocks are wonderful guns to own and shoot. I own a number of rifles: Wincester, Ruger, etc. However, when I want to "bond" with them, it is the flintlock I will take out. (Although the wife doesn't understand, I know my black powder brothers do!)

When it comes being readily available, the flintlock is second only to "Lucifer," my home defense shotgun

There is a bit of a learning curve involved. For example you need to appreciate the fact that these are not fast firing weapons. Otherwise you may become frustrated with how long it takes for each of your shots. Cleaning is also very important. But I will leave something for the others to write about.

Once over the learning cure, you will very much enjoy these weapons and have an heightened appreciation for their role in our countries history.

Best of luck and welcome to the club.

~Robert

HEAD0001

To Robert, I did not mean Triple 7, I meant 7F blackpowder. I know alot of people have not seen 7F, but it is truly a miracle powder for pans. I buy it from a BP gunsmith in Morgantown, WV. He sells it in pill bottles, I am guessing it to be 1 or maybe 2 ounces. Try it you will like it(where did that come from). I meant this reply to be friendly not confrontational, Tom.

paco97

Also, I recommend Tom Fuller Black English Flints. My Traditions PA Rifle Takes 3/4" Flints, but I'm not sure which size your rifle takes. Go to Track of the Wolf and they have a quick turn around for flints. Also, be sure to check your lock as stated above to make sure it provides lots of sparks. My rifle needed some additional tuning to get consistent sparks -- I needed to bend the cock 7degrees, polished the frizzen spring and the pan.

Also, I recommend to polish your priming pan it helps keep moisture out of your powder and wrap your lint in lead not leather for additional sparks. Just flatten a RB and wrap aroudn the flint.

RobertSubnet

Tom: your right, I have never heard of 7F. The burn rate must be amazing! Is it available on the Internet?

~Robert
PS: "try it you'll like it:" I know there was a fairly famous commercial in the 1970s that had that line. Maybe it comes from that....?

HEAD0001

I buy it from a BP gunsmith in Morgantown, WV. His name is Marvin Wotring. Maybe Wottring, I am not sure. This is the only place I have ever seen it. I have heard of people having it at rendezvou's, and at civil war skirmishes, Tom.