This is probably old news to a lot of people, but those of you that still have the flat blade screw inserted in the bolster of your CVA/Traditions, CVAhas a kit out to replace that with what I think is a more convienent screw. The kit comes with a the new nipple wrench headed screw (appears to be stainless) and a port brush. part number AC1634

I have a traditions here that belongs to a co-worker, he wanted me to do some work on the gun and when I saw this conversion I picked one up. Sure seems better to me. It is a CVA kit but since Traditions uses the same barrel I was confident that it would work.

My bolster clean out screw on my old Tradition's has long ago decided it does not want to be removed anymore. So we have an agreement, I do not remove it and the rifle does not get all scratched up. That is a really good idea though. That should have been thought of a long time ago. Those little allen wrench head screws are nice to, until you drop on on the carpet... [:@]

cayugad

I know what you mean - this was grown in also - but I put the barrel in boiling water then with a percussion screw driver I was able to remove it. The next step would have been to heat it with a torch, and the final step would have been to drill it out.

Mine in the Deerhunter 1-48"seized shut a couple of years ago. Like Cayugad, I don't mess with it anymore. That drum gets water-flushed after every outing & with 777, there's no buildup there. So I no longer pay any attention to it.

Triple Se7en

Yes you and cayugad are both right it is no big deal - but I guess am a bit anal about it, if the manufacture put it there it must be good for something and then again if the manufacture put it there he certainly didn't sell it to me siezed and I want to keep everthing in operating condition. If you start taking one meaningless short cut what might you short cut later along the way - do it right or don't do it - how often have I heard mydad tell me that one...

I suppose one of these days I will easy-out that screw. As long as the left side of that drum remains clear -- which it does with my water power-flushes (and) I continue to use fine powders like 777 FFF that work it's way underneath the nipple 100% of the time, then there's no need to be concerned about the right side of that drum. It's probably better-off this way anyways -- seeing that it no longer has the empty space to collect moisture & cause hang/misfires when wet outdoors.

Green Mountain barrels areliving proof that a drum that sizeis not even needed. The directnipple fireto the barrel route is what all percussion MLsshould have.

T7,

Gee whiz, It is not my rifle but I am sure he and I both wi**** was a Green Mountain barrel - actually I wish all of my own sidelocks had the TC "snail flash channel" & breech to the powder - that one has been the most efficient for me in all weather, all conditions...

mike

I do remove the bolster clean out screw from the rifles that are not stuck. I always felt if they come out easy, then I will take them out. On my new Renegade it does not even have one. The old Traditions was given to me in poor condition. I was lucky to get the old rusted nipple out. Even then I had to soak the thing for a couple days...

I like the new Green Mountain Barrels. They really seem to fire nice for me.

cayugad
Yes, I know what you mean my 2, fast twist GM's,are great shooters - they are not stainlesslike yours but great shooters. One of them has the regular 90 degree turn into the barrel from the nipple, the other has the "sail channel" and it SOOOO easy to get powder out under the nipple, even in terrible conditions in the woods in really rotten weather. I am probably really biased but I have had a couple of problems with the 90 degree one in really cold weather BUT, that was back when I was using t7-2f. With 3f I really don't remember any problems with either breech.

P.S. - everytime I check the GM site - I am so tempted to order that stainless special - I keep telling myself I could justify it be replacing that Renegade barrel that i am fighting.