Sharp Shooter

Well, The TC traditional rifle my grandpa gave me has not been fired in 13 years! I got it out and cleaned in last night. I have never cleaned a muzzleloader before. I put it in a tub of hot water for a few seconds then I had to get it out. So I dried it out then went to the sink and put HOT water down the barrel. It got really hot to the point where I would not carry it. Then by the time I was sure it was dry, it had cooled and was just warm. I put some bore butter on a patch and ran is down the barrel. Then, I did a few fore dry patches. Would it be a good idea to re-do this when I get my ramrod cleaning attachment kit from Cablelas? I might scrub it all out and re-do it. But any ways. There is a little rustin the very top of the barrel. It is not much but just a little ring. What should I do?

Thanks

Tahquamenon

Don't panic.

Get a drop-in bore light similar to this so you can inspect the bore condition:
Bore Light


An indispensable aid for all muzzleloader shooters. Brass light drops down muzzle of any rifle or pistol .50 cal. or larger to brightly illuminate bore interior. Alkaline batteries included.

Barrels can flash rust fairly quickly.

Use a wire brush to scrub out the bore. 20-30 strokes.
Or if you have heavier rust, then follow up with an emry cloth or a mild bore paste.

If the rust is not too bad then a quality bore solvent such as Butch's Bore Shine and 20-30 strokes and patches.

Then pump-flush the bore with a cleaning jag and a patch:
Boil or use about 2 quarts of really hot water along with some laundry soapin a small bucket.
Get glove or towel for one hand to hold the barrel. Remove the nipple and place the breech end of the barrel into the bucket. Wet a patch and place on the jag and run the patch from the muzzle to the breech and pull upward drawing hot soapy water into the bore. Pump flush about 20-30 strokes.

Then dump the soapy water and add hot clean water and pump flush another 10 strokes or so. The barrel will be really hot at this point.
Dump out all of the water.

Soak a patch in 99% isopropyl alcohol and run this patch in the bore and in the flash channel for the nippe threads. The alcohol will help evaporate moisure. Wait a few mintues and then run a couple of dry patches in the bore.
Barrel is still hot/warm, then use a quality lubricant. I use synthetic lubes (Clenzoil and Otis085 Ultra-Bore, B/C Sheath, Etc.)for rust protection and natural lubes (Bore Butter, Wonderlube, Rooster Labs)for shooting (patches, wads and for the field) lubricants. If you do use synthetic lubes then they will need to be removed prior to shooting. A windex/alcohol patch followed by dry followed by natural lubed. Don't forget to clean the flash channel under the nipple.

If you still see rust or pitting, then you may need to repeat the above procedures.

Good luck!

Tahquamenon

Triple Se7en

Repeat!
Bore Butter does NOT remove water-remnants left inside your rifling.
Unless you are lubing bullets with it, throw it in the garbage. Get a good gun oil - one that says "prevents rust" & "removes moisture". Do not buy any that say "Inhibits Rust".

The two secrets to water/soap & water cleaning is.....

1) Speed of person caring for ML rifle

2) Having everything there at your disposal/use - so you don't have to go searching for stuff like patches, oils, ramrods, buckets, dish rags, soap, Q-tips, pipe cleaners, nipple pick,solvent, bore brush,alcohol... etc while the barrel is wet both inside & out.

It's very important that "Immediately" after removing the barrel from a bucket or sink of water, that a dish rag is used to wipe the outside of the barrel with barrel tilted downward -- then dry patches ready for swabbing the bore - then two alcohol patches or water-removing oil patches ready to swab again - then both sides of another dry patch -then final oiling with the either the water-removing oil (or)some other brand of oil that you prefer for storage purposes.

You cannot "dilly-dally" around when the barrel is wet. Time is very important to avoid flash-rusting.