I would not apply glyphosate on a day it is supposed to rain. On most foliar herbicides, I've found that the percentage kill will decrease, even after the allotted time has passed. If I cannot get at least 8 hours without precip, I hold off. I strongly prefer at least 24 hours after application. The only exception to this is when I am applying picloram. Then, I prefer to have at least some form of precipitation within the week, within a day or two if possible.

Applying a granular fertilizer right before or after applying herbicide won't hurt anything. If that is when you can get it done, do it, although it is better to fertilize right before, during, or after planting.

According to the label on HI-Yield KillZall "super concentrate" 41% Glyphosate..2 hours is stated. It supposedly has more surfactant which increases drying time and absorption.


"This is a non-selective liquid weed killer. KILLZALL® literally kills what it hits. It can be safely used around desirable plants as long as you control the spray so it only hits the foliage of weeds. KILLZALL® does not have any soil activity so it can not be absorbed by the roots of desirable plants.

KILL-ALL® has a high concentrate of glyphosphate (41%) the same active ingredient found in Honcho and Ranger Pro brand product.

HI-YIELD'S KILL-ZALL® is a price beater to begin with and because of the higher concentration, you’ll mix less into the water, making it just that much more economical than similar products.

••• Spray-on weeds and grass thoroughly ••• Contains a double-surfactant ultra formulation that dries on plant fast ••• Use near fences, in paths, patios, sidewalks, curbs and driveways, around ornamental trees, shrubs, flower beds and buildings."


http://www.hi-yield.com/products/Pro...bels/33692.pdf

Like I said, the label may say 2 hours, but I've always found the longer it sits, the higher % kill I am able to obtain. With 24 hours to sit, I can get almost complete control. With 8 hours, still got very good kills. With only 4 hours, start to notice a difference. Within two hours, I've wasted my time and money. Any glyphosate that washes off is wasted, because it has very, very little residual soil activity. This is especially so when tank mixed with ammonium sulfate.

I have no clue what type of surfactant is used in this particular label. When I mix a tank, I do use a surfactant that costs around $80/gallon. Same stuff I use when spraying undesirable brush with much costlier chemicals, such as triclopry, clopyralid, and picloram.

Nahh, If roundup dries on reasonably tender vegetation(less than 12") you have it.(may take slightly longer than two hours in some circumstances, usually less) That is with the low rate(1 qt/acre), without extra surfactant or liquid ammonium sulfate to help it. The only field I had any problems with this year got sprayed only 30 minutes ahead of a hard rain, and still had good control of the grasses, just some sweetgums and milkweed that didnt die.

Well we got the majority of it knocked out yesterday afternoon. We went in an pulled the weeds by hand clearing it out to just about bare soil. Then I went over the spots we cleared and sprayed it. We're going to go back out and finish it off sometime next week. It didn't rain last night so the herbicide has had sufficient time to dry onto whatever was still exposed and soak into the soil slightly to hopefully kill off any seeds that remained.

My plan of attack for fertilizing and planting has changed a little. I met one of the club members yesterday that has a tractor and disk. I think I'm going to let the herbicide sit for a couple weeks and then make plans to meet this fella out there right before a good rain. Then I plan to broadcast the fertilizer and the seed at the same time and have him disk it into the soil. This will allow the fertilizer to mix into the soil well and will also give me the seed-to-soil contact I need. Then the good rain should finish the job for me.

Sounds a lot better than tilling it again with a push tiller. What do you guys think about that?

I'd rather broadcast seed and fertilizer seperately for a few reasons.

I'm not sure if the fertilizer will hurt the seed coatings or not, but why take a chance?

You do NOT want to disk in seeds as small as you are working with. It would much better to broadcast and leave it on top of the ground with no packing or dragging than disking them in more than 1/4" deep. More than 1/2" deep and you probably will never get them out of the ground.

Disking in the fertilizer is great. Just do the seed on a different run.

Okay thanks! I'll finish off the weeding and spraying and then have the fertilizer disked in. Then go back a little later and broadcast the seed.