TEXAS FOOD PLOT
#1
Thread Starter
Spike
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
I want to plant a food plot on my property. I live in East Texas, with a mix of Pine trees and Hardwoods. The soil is sandy loam, and low in minerals. I would like to plant in the early part of April and have something that would last into September. Maybe a good mix from a farm co-op store. Don't want the High Dollar stuff from a sporting goods store. What does innoculated seed mean? I have the availabilty to a disk and a drag harrow. I've heard about rape,sorgum,rye,oats and other grasses. would be interested in suggestions on leafy deer attracting plots and a good mix from several plants.
Thanks!!!
Somedays I get brainstorms[8D] and................... Somedays I just get clouds
Thanks!!!
Somedays I get brainstorms[8D] and................... Somedays I just get clouds

#2
You are on the right track in knowing the feed store is the best place to purchase seed
A mix that could work in your area is Forage cowpeas or Iron/Clay peas at 40lbs per acre, with Alyce clover at 10lbs per acre and possibly American Jointvetch at 5lbs per acre. And all of those will need the inoculate you mentioned. It can be purchased at the same place you find these seeds most likely. Inoculate is needed for legumes to acheive their fullest, its a beneficial bacteria needed for proper root developement, among other things. The soil temperature should be in the upper 60s before planting the seeds mentioned. Soil test would be good also, if your soil is very acidic, it could hinder some of the legumes. Good luck!!
#3
Thread Starter
Spike
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Thanks, Haystack.
This week-end started by mapping out my food plot area. Mowed as close as possible, disked area and cross-cut multiple passes. Using a drag harrow, made numerous passes with it until the soil was level but had grated lines. Then applied 50 lbs. triple 13-13-13 fertillizer. Next, seeded with 50lb. spring mix of iron clay peas, cow peas, chick peas,millet, sorgum, clover, sunflower and sesame seed. Then,dropped spikes on drag harrow and completed a light drag over seedbed. Now, if the "rain gods" will co-operate should have some sprouts in a few days. I also ordered some "chickory" seed and will introduce it to the plot this week-end. Thanks, for the suggestions. will post some pictures when it starts to sprout!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Somedays I get BRAINSTORMS!!!
and.......... somedays just CLOUDS!!![X(]
This week-end started by mapping out my food plot area. Mowed as close as possible, disked area and cross-cut multiple passes. Using a drag harrow, made numerous passes with it until the soil was level but had grated lines. Then applied 50 lbs. triple 13-13-13 fertillizer. Next, seeded with 50lb. spring mix of iron clay peas, cow peas, chick peas,millet, sorgum, clover, sunflower and sesame seed. Then,dropped spikes on drag harrow and completed a light drag over seedbed. Now, if the "rain gods" will co-operate should have some sprouts in a few days. I also ordered some "chickory" seed and will introduce it to the plot this week-end. Thanks, for the suggestions. will post some pictures when it starts to sprout!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Somedays I get BRAINSTORMS!!!
and.......... somedays just CLOUDS!!![X(]
#4
Legumes are plants capable of fixating their own nitrogen, thanks to rhizobia bacteria found in the roots. Inoculants help promote that bacterial development from seed. The higher nitrogen content found in legumes because of this unique ability makes them have comparatively higher protein than most other forages. If you plant legumes, inoculate the seeds, and don't later fertilize with nitrogen (use an 0-#-# fertilizer). When you add nitrogen, the bacteria and the plants will use the nitrogen you supplied (at a cost) instead of fixating their own.
Also, keep in mind the type of fertilizer, form, application method, and plant availability can make a difference. This shouldn't be a real issue for you, since this issue is really more geared to the nitrogen than the phosphorus or potassium.
My suggestion is keep it simple. I've been seeing a lot of people lately overdoing it lately. Instead of taking the best one or two forages they can grow and focusing on maximizing the the potential of only those one or two forages, they try to plant a wide variety of species and end up with marginal production of nearly everything. It may take some experimenting, but focus on what you can grow and grow well.
Also, keep in mind the type of fertilizer, form, application method, and plant availability can make a difference. This shouldn't be a real issue for you, since this issue is really more geared to the nitrogen than the phosphorus or potassium.
My suggestion is keep it simple. I've been seeing a lot of people lately overdoing it lately. Instead of taking the best one or two forages they can grow and focusing on maximizing the the potential of only those one or two forages, they try to plant a wide variety of species and end up with marginal production of nearly everything. It may take some experimenting, but focus on what you can grow and grow well.
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