GMMAT

I know this gets beat to death...but indulge me. I just had a feeder and a stand/ladder/all the accessories stolen....so I'm going to fight back the best way I know how. I'm PLANTIN!

I'm in NW NC.....and I can be ready in a jiffy. I have a 1.5 acre field that's in the woods.....a few pines in there....and it gets semi-limited sunlight. It has a good stand of grass (hay-like) in there almost all months of the year....but I want to do it, right.

So....I assume a soil test to begin? After that.....application of lime? Then....disc my soil and get ready....but when?

Also..how expensive is lime? What's the best way to spread it from an ATV? Will clover grow in this environment? What would you suggest?

I am READY. I can have all necessary items in a flash. If I need to wait until the Spring....I can do that, too.

Oh yeah....I hunt turkeys, here, too. I'd love to have something to benefit both....but the whitetails are my first love.

TexasOaks

Here's something to start off (just some reading stuff I have found): (We planted this last weekend and we have some oats and biologic already growing)

First, what do you want your food plots to accomplish? When selecting food plot forages for deer, the first question you need to answer is what do you want your food plot(s) to accomplish? Is your main objective to provide high-quality food that will improve the health of the deer herd in your area, or do you just want to attract deer during the hunting season? You can accomplish both objectives with food plots. However, there are important differences between food plots designed to attract deer for hunting and those designed to improve deer nutrition. The following is a description of how "nutritional" food plots differ from "hunting" food plots.

Nutritional food plots
The objective of a nutritional food plot is to improve deer nutrition by providing as much high-quality food for deer as possible. As a result, nutritional food plots are typically larger than 3 acres in size so you can provide enough food to actually influence the nutrition and health of deer in your area. The large size of these plots is also important to ensure that your forages can handle heavy, repeated grazing by deer. If your nutritional food plots are small and deer devour them in a few evenings, you will have little or no influence on deer nutrition.

Hunting food plots
The objective of a hunting food plot is to attract deer during the hunting season and provide opportunities to harvest deer at close range. As a result, hunting plots are usually less than 1 acre in size and they are planted with forages that are most nutritious and attractive to deer during hunting season. The specific forages you plant in a hunting plot are determined by what season you plan to hunt the plot. If you want to attract deer in the early-season you would plant forages that become palatable in September or October. If you want the plot to attract deer in the late season, you would plant forages that become or stay palatable in November or later.

Even though the hunting plot is not designed to meet the nutritional needs of deer in every season, it is still important to plant a variety of forages that mature at different times. When selecting forages for the hunting plot, choose forages that mature at slightly different times during the hunting season, rather than throughout the year. If you plant forages that mature at different times in the fall you will be able to extend the period of time that the plot is attracting deer.

Moisture
Planting just before or during a rain ensures that there is adequate soil moisture available within the root zone for seeds to geminate. Seeds of many plant species require specific temperature and moisture conditions to germinate. If the moisture content is below a certain threshold, the seeds will desiccate and die. This is the primary reason most seed companies suggest that seed be stored in a dry environment until planting. When seed is dusted in, especially during the fall, the temperature is usually adequate to cause germination. However, without adequate soil moisture, a large percentage of the seed will not germinate.

Also if you are worried about moisture in the ground you can do something called banking moisture. You do this by some deep tillage of the soil, creating a 16 to 20 inch layer of soft, absorbent soil. This layer, which is prepared weeks and even months ahead of planting time, serves as a sponge that allows the moisture from the occasional rains to be soaked up and preserved above the hardpan but below the level where the scorching sun and drying wind can quickly suck it away. (Sand, loamy soils are best for banking moisture).

Weeds
(1) Identify The Enemy. Is it a broadleaf or a grass? Is it an annual or a perennial? Was it here last year? If you can’t identify the weed, take a sample to your agriculture extension agent, university agronomy department, wildlife biologist, or even a nearby farmer. Weed lists are long. Here is a short list of some common offenders by category. Broadleaf weeds include pigweed, ragweed, horsenettle, thistle, jimsonweed, morning glory, milkweed, and coffeeweed. Grasses include fescue, bermudagrass, johnsongrass, crabgrass, foxtail, and many others.

(2) Planning Is Important. In some respects, if you are standing in the weeds in mid-summer wondering what to do, it’s too late for some of the best tactics. What weeds invaded this plot last year? Chances are it was the same species. Your observation of weeds from last year should have influenced what crop you planted this year—a broadleaf or a grass. In other words, if you have had past weed problems from the grass family, such as crabgrass, plant a broadleaf such as clover, jointvetch, or peas. Vice versa, plant a grass such as grain sorghum if your weed problem is a broadleaf. This system allows for selective control of your weeds with chemical herbicides without killing your target planting. See what I mean by planning? More about selective herbicides later.

(3) Control Method (choose your weapon)—Cut, Competition or Chemicals. Many deer food plants are highly tolerant of repeated mowing or cutting. These include clover, alfalfa, and trefoil. You often can give your plants a good competitive edge by mowing, which weakens or kills the weeds and stimulates regrowth of your target plant. This won’t work, however, with peas, beans, or grain sorghum which do not respond well to cutting.

Of all the options, however, chemicals are often the best choice for your food plot. Chemicals are safe, when used correctly, effective, inexpensive, and cut manpower and plowing tremendously. From this point on, we’ll concentrate on chemicals.

(4) Getting Started With Chemicals. Obviously, you have to have some spraying equipment. Usually a garden type two or three gallon sprayer won’t do it if your weed problem is fairly extensive. You will quickly find yourself “under-gunned.” One possible exception is spraying individual thistle plants or fescue clumpsin cool-season plots. Roundup or 2,4-D can be used for this.

More likely, if you are serious about food plots, you will need a spray rig for a four-wheeler, pickup truck, or tractor. These are available in electric or gas driven for four-wheelers and electric or PTO driven for tractors. Boom type sprayers with fan nozzles are usually better than rainbow type sprayers. Sprayers range in price from $150 to $2,000, depending on features.

If you have big fields with good access, you may be able to hire your spraying by truck from a local farm cooperative, seed dealer, or farmer.

(5) What Chemicals to Use. There are hundreds of herbicides on the market. For purposes of this article, we’ll concentrate on three—Roundup®, Poast®, and 2,4-D. Roundup kills a broad range of both grasses and broadleaves. Its best use is to control unwanted vegetation prior to the use of a grain drill. With Roundup and a no-till grain drill, you can just about get rid of your disk harrows, or plows. This time of year, spray Roundup and drill grain sorghum, peas, jointvetch, or alyceclover. If no drill is available, spray, wait two weeks, plow and plant. Although the Roundup will kill all germinated plants it contacts, the plowing will likely germinate a new crop of weed seeds (probably reduced in number from the previous crop).

Poast is a grass selective herbicide that basically kills most grasses but no broadleafs. So, if we are still standing in our food plot in June or July and the plot is a broadleaved perennial like alfalfa, clover, or trefoil being invaded with crabgrass, johnsongrass, bermuda, or fescue, then Poast is our weapon. Even new annual broadleaf plantings of peas, beans, clover, or jointvetch are candidates for Poast which must be mixed with a crop oil concentrate for best results. This is where last year’s planning pays off. If this plot had problems with crabgrass or johnsongrass last year, plow repeatedly and plant a broadleaf. When the noxious grass reemerges, spray with Poast for the knockout punch. Whichever scenario, if the noxious grasses are over six inches tall, mow, wait a week or two, and then spray the regrowth.

2,4-D is a broadleaf killer that has been around under many brand names for several years. It will not kill grasses. Grain sorghum infested with coffeeweed, ragweed, jimsonweed, morning glory, or any other broadleaf qualifies for 2,4-D application. Grain sorghum is a little sensitive to 2,4-D, so read the label carefully. Atrazine is a great herbicide for grain sorghum or corn, but is a controlled chemical requiring a private pesticide applicator’s license. 2,4-D, Poast, and Roundup are all available over the counter with no license required.

(6) Read The Label. This cannot be emphasized enough. Do not apply any more chemical than the label directs! Use at least 20 to 30 gallons of water per acre for best coverage and effective kills. Do not mix herbicides unless it specifically states this on the label. Carefully calibrate your spraying equipment (your agriculture extension service can help with this) and carefully measure your food plot acreage. I have seen many half-acre plots that were eyeball estimated to be one acre, thus doubling fertilizer, seed rates, spray rates, and everything. It is a good way to waste money and reduce efficiency. Poast always needs to be mixed with crop oil concentrate, while Roundup and 2,4-D sometimes need to be mixed with surfactants. Read the labels.

(7) Timing is Everything. Most weeds are more vulnerable to chemicals when they are young and vigorously growing. Do not spray when plants are wet or when rain is expected within 24-48 hours. Do not spray when it is windy as drift will render spraying ineffective and can be harmful to the applicator. Again, when weed growth exceeds four to six inches, mow, wait one to two weeks and spray regrowth. Do not spray during an extended drought, weed control is ineffective and valuable crop species may be injured or killed.

A soil test should be made prior to planting a food plot to determine the amount of fertilizer or other additives needed in the soil. Fertilizer improves palatability of plants and improves the odds that a good stand of your plantings will be established.



As a rule, a neutral pH of 7.0, or one that’s 6.5 (just slightly acidic) is the best for the majority of plant species. Soils that are highly acid (lower than 6.0) typically have high concerntrations of aluminum, iron, and manganese, which can inhibit plant growth, while soils that are too low in pH can even be toxic to certain plant species. When lime is added to the soil, the pH level rises and, in so doing, toxic substances are neutralized. Now, plants can efficiently utilize the nutrients in the soil, primarily those which you’ve applied in the form of fertilizer.

Seeds should be planted at the proper depth according to planting specifications and with the proper equipment. Most food plots can be planted with seed drills or broadcast spreaders. Broadcast plantings should be followed by a roller or drag to insure contact with the soil to improve germination.

Row or skip-row crop planting techniques should be used for some crops such as sorghum or lablab to allow for cultivation and weed control (or where it is real dry). Small seeds such as legumes and ryegrass should be planted no more than 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep (or at a depth recommended by your local dealer or mill). Larger seeds such as wheat, oats, peas, or beans are planted at 1 to 1 1/2 inch depths (or at a depth recommended by your local dealer or mill). Use of pre-emergent herbicides and cultivation may be required to get a good stand on some forage plantings.

Annuals
Annuals are plants that require only one growing season to complete their life cycle. At the end of one growing season they die. This means that you must replant these forages each year if you want to keep them in your food plots. Some annuals can be encouraged to reseed themselves through proper management of the food plot. This management may include mowing, fertilizing, and disking, and will depending on the forage species you have planted.

Perennials
Perennials are plants that require at least 3 years to complete their growing cycle. This means that you can get multiple years of forage production from a single planting. They do this by developing specialized root systems that allow them to regenerate from their roots after the leaves and stems of the plant die at the end of the growing season. The number of season you will get from a single planting depends of the specific forage species, how well you maintain the food plot, and the region you are in.
Common Errors

Here are some common mistakes made by people establishing food plots:

• More is better. Exceeding the seeding, lime, or fertilizer recommendation is a waste of both time and money and, in the case of lime and fertilizer, too much may
negatively affect the crop. The recommendations for seeding and nutrient application have been researched and should not be exceeded.

• Not fertilizing. Most crops need applications of fertilizer to help them grow and achieve maximum productivity. Don’t assume your soil doesn’t need fertilizer. Soil test — don’t guess.

• Using old seed. Seed that is old may not have been properly stored and handled. Make certain to use new, high quality seed in your food plot. (if you store seed make sure it is in a dry location)

• Planting agricultural seeds in shaded areas. Plants grown for agricultural purposes require sunlight for energy and growth. Avoid placing these seeds in shaded areas such as woods. (check to see if your particular plant will grow in the shade)

• Not planting enough acres. Food plots that are too small are ineffective. Food plots can be any size, but should be at least 1,000 square feet. Food plots of 1/4 to 1/2 acre in size for every 20 acres are a good rule of thumb.

What to Plant? (This is for my area but may work for you as well)

Try lablab (its usually considered a warm season plant but I think fall plantings are okay but not positive), alfalfa, iron clad peas or cowpeas, Austrian winter peas, purple top tunips,persimmons are great fruit trees that to plant that do well in Texas, orchard grass, rye grass, birdsfoot or junkyard trefoil, winter wheat, oats, white clover, sorghum.

Soybean site requirements (need good rain)
Soybeans will grow on a wide range of soil conditions, but they grow best on well-drained soils. They will not tolerate drought however, so forage production may be low if planted on sandy or gravelly soils. Soil pH should be between 5.8 and 7.0.


Birdsfoot Trefoil
This cool-season perennial legume gets its name from its seed pods that are arranged in the shape of a bird's foot. It is a winter hardy legume that will last for several years in northern regions. In the mid-west and south it is susceptible to root and crown rot and usually lasts no longer than 2 years. It is very sensitive to high temperatures and therefore, is not a good choice for the deep south. Birdsfoot trefoil has an average protein content of 16% to 20%. It is highly preferred by deer and can be easily over-grazed if planted on small acreage plots.

Birdsfoot trefoil site requirements
Birdsfoot trefoil will grow under a wide range of soil conditions. It is best adapted to well drained soils but it will tolerate poorly drained conditions, as well as drought. Best forage production is achieved when soil pH is between 6.2 and 7.0, but it will grow on sites with pH as low as 4.5. Birdsfoot trefoil fixes nitrogen, but it will typically require annual applications of low nitrogen fertilizer to encourage the best growth.

Turnips (Brassica rapa)
Turnips are a brassica that grow very quickly and reach their peak production in 80 to 90 days. They will grow in a variety of soil conditions and they grow well in cool northern regions. Deer eat the leaves first and will eat the roots once the leaves are gone

Planting dates for turnips
They are often planted in late summer to provide a late-fall through mid-winter food source to deer.
Varieties of turnips Different turnip hybrids produce different proportions of leaves to roots. Some varieties produce very few leaves and large roots (15% leaves to 85% roots), while in other varieties over 90% of the production is in leaves. Choose varieties that produce a high proportion of leaves because the leaves are the most nutritious part of the plant. Varieties such as Savannah and All Top produce a greater proportion of leaves to roots. Manaroa is a variety that becomes palatable early in its growth.


Cowpea or Iron Clay Pea site requirements
Cowpeas are adapted to a variety of soil conditions. They can be grown on conditions ranging from sandy soils with low fertility, to fertile, clay soils. However, the best growth and forage production will occur on well-drained sandy loam, and clay. Cowpeas shouldn't be planted in wet soils. Ideal pH for cowpeas is between 6.0 and 6.5, but they will tolerate pH as low as 5.5. While they are very resistant to heat and drought, they are very susceptible to frost.

Austrian winter pea site requirements
It grows best on well drained loam or sandy loam with a pH near 7.0. Winter peas are best suited for warm climates; they will not tolerate extreme winter temperatures and they are not suitable for northern regions.

Ryegrass site requirements
Ryegrasses grow best on fertile, well-drained soils with pH between 6.0 and 7.0. They will, however, tolerate moist soils and pH as low as 5.0.

Alfalfa is a cool-season, perennial legume. It has many characteristics that make it one of the best deer forages you can choose for your food plots. Its high protein content (16% to 28%) and high digestibility make it highly preferred by deer. It has a taproot that can extend to a depth of over five feet, so it is one of the most drought tolerant forages once it is established. Alfalfa is a cool-season perennial that will persist for over five years if managed correctly, and it can produce more forage per acre than the other legumes. Additionally, it is very efficient at fixing nitrogen, so you won't have to apply nitrogen fertilizer to alfalfa plots.

While the above characteristics make alfalfa a top forage choice for many deer managers, it is a demanding plant that can be difficult to establish and maintain. As a result, it is not for everybody. For example, alfalfa has low tolerance for moisture and soil acidity; it will do best on well-drained soils with pH between 6.5 and 7.0. Although alfalfa fixes its own nitrogen, it usually requires annual applications of other soil nutrients such as potassium, phosphorous, boron and sulfur. It is prone to damage from over 50 insects or diseases (especially alfalfa weevil and potato leafhopper). It is susceptible to heavy competition from weeds if stands are not kept thick and lush. Finally, it is susceptible to over-grazing early in the season.

Sorghum site requirements
Sorghum is easier to grow than corn because sorghum demands fewer nutrients and typically requires 1/3 less water for good growth. It is very drought tolerant, it will tolerate poorly-drained conditions, low soil fertility, and moderate acidity. It will not tolerate flooding. Best growth is achieved on well-drained soils with pH between 5.6 and 6.5.

Forage Rape (Brassica napus)
Forage rape is a brassica that grows very quickly, and depending on the variety, will reach maturity in 30 to 90 days. It is tolerant of cold, drought and heat. Therefore, it can be grown throughout the country and into southern Canada. Deer eat the leaves.

Planting dates for forage rape
Forage rape can be planted in early spring if you want the plants to mature and be attractive to deer between August through September. If you want deer to use the food plots in late October through mid winter, plant forage rape in mid- to late-July. If you are planting in northern regions be sure to plant no later than late June to assure that plants have time to reach maximum production before the first hard frost.

Varieties of forage rape
Forage rape is available in dwarf types and tall types. Dwarf types are probably the best choice for deer food plots as these varieties mature quicker than tall types and are less susceptible to overgrazing. Dwarf Essex is the most commonly available variety of forage rape. Mairaki is a variety that becomes palatable early in its growth. Bioroa is a fast-growing forage rape that is especially resistant to drought. Oamaru produces a large amount of forage and it is slow to mature, so it provides a good late-season food source. Other varieties of forage rape include Winfred and UpSurgeTM.


Lablab site requirements (Usually a spring/summer plant)
Lablab is very heat and drought tolerant so it can be grown well in the arid climates of the south. It will also grow in other regions where soybeans and cowpeas are grown. It prefers sandy clay loam soils with pH above 5.0. It will not tolerate poorly drained soils. On the topic of Lablab plantings for the fall, it usually grows until the first freeze of the fall. (Stops sometime in November)

Oats
Oats are a cool-season cereal grain that are highly preferred by deer. During the first months of growth oats are high in protein (14% to 18% protein) and easily digestible. In most cases, deer prefer oats over the other cereal grains. Oats are most often used in fall-planted hunting plots to attract deer.

Site requirements of oats
Oats have a couple drawbacks that make them unsuitable for some planting situations. First, they are the least cold tolerant of the cereal grains and they are easily killed off in extreme cold. As a result, they may not be the best choice for planting in northern regions. Second, oat plantings will often fail if planted in no-till food plots; the seeds must be covered with 1" to 2" of soil for proper germination. For best results, plant in well drained soils with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Oats will not grow well on deep sands, and they will not tolerate poorly drained sites.

Wheat
Wheat is a cool-season cereal grain that is preferred by deer and ideal for planting in mixtures with other forages. During its first months of growth, wheat is high in protein (14-20% protein) and highly palatable to deer. As a result, it is an excellent forage for fall-planted hunting plots and as an early-spring food source.

Site requirements of wheat
Of the cereal grains, wheat is the most tolerant of heavy wet soils. It is more cold tolerant than oats, but less tolerant of cold and acidic soils than rye. It grows best on well drained or moist soils with pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Unlike oats, it can be planted successfully without tilling the soil.

Rye
Rye is a cool-season cereal grain that is less preferred than oats or wheat, but is still eaten readily by deer. Rye is most palatable to deer when it is young. Protein content in young, tender stems is between 14% to 16%. It is most useful when planted in a mixture with cool-season legumes. It is suitable for use in fall-planted hunting plots and as an early spring food source.

Site requirements of rye
Of the cereal grains rye is most winter hardy and drought tolerant. It will grow on a variety of soil conditions including sandy soils and low acidity. It is less tolerant of wet sites than wheat. Rye grows best on well-drained soils with pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Rye is excellent for no-till planting.

White Clover Requirements
Drought Tolerant
6.5-8.0, 7-8 (best adapted)
Sandy-loam, clay-loam.
12-65 inches.
-38º F. (minimum). High cold tolerance.

Chicory
Chicory is a cool-season perennial herb that grows long, broad leaves that resemble those of dandelion or common plantain. It produces abundant spring and summer forage that is highly preferred by deer. When managed properly, the nutritional value of chicory can be higher than that of alfalfa. Protein content of young plants can be as high as 32% and the leaves are between 90% and 95% digestible. A properly maintained chicory stand can last up to seven years.

Chicory develops a deep taproot so it is very tolerant of drought and will stay green and palatable in summer, a time when other cool-season forages such as clovers decline in quality. Best growth is achieved on well drained to moderately drained soils with medium to high fertility. It will tolerate pH as low as 4.5 but grows best when pH is between 6.0 and 7.0.

Cereal Grains
Cereal grains can be planted alone but they are most beneficial to deer when planted in a mixture with other annual or perennial forages. They are especially valuable when planted as a "nurse crop" for legumes such as clover. Because cereal grains grow faster and begin growing earlier after planting than clovers, the grains often receive most of the first grazing pressure from deer, when the clovers are young and susceptible to grazing damage. (Types of cereal grains are wheat, oats, and rye)



I would not pay too close to the dates on this chart because it's from Ohio, so of course the planting dates will be different than here. None the less, it gives you which animals prefer what species of plants.

Rick James

Bear with me for the lengthy post, but I will do my best to give you a set of directions here to end up with a beatiful plot.

First of all, how tall is the current growth in this field? If it is low enough now to just get through there with the spreader on the back of the quad then your fine for now.......if not then get it mowed first. Do you have a mower that you can mow it with or do you know someone with a tractor and brush hog that can mow it for a few $$$?

First of all the most important thing you can do now to have a great plot next year is get at least some lime on the ground now. The best time to lime is always yesterday, it takes 90 days for lime to effectively begin changing PH levels, and 6 months to a year to see the full affect from a spreading of lime. A jump start on this now will help you tremendously for a spring planting next year.

First thing I would do and it will be a major chore.......get yoruself a drop spreader from Northern Tool and Supply and get a full ton of lime on that field this fall.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_41886_41886

This will hook up to the back of your quad and will spread pulverized lime nicely once you get it adjusted right. When you get it, you will need to get the vent on the bottom opened fully to get pulverized lime to flow right, I actually used a bungee cord to hold the handle in the full open position and once I did this I was able to spread almost 3/4 ton in 2 hours or so. In all I put about 1.5 tons of lime through mine this summer in a day and a half of work, but the first day I didn't have it adjusted and flowing right. Get this lime on the ground this fall, then get your soil test done in the springto determine how much more you need then and how much fertilizer for your intended type of seed. My big plot (plot #1 in my thread) is almost 1.5 acres just as yours and I spread 1 ton my first year and it did OK, however an application of a ton now and then some more in the spring would be ideal. Pulverized lime in my neck of the woods is about $70 a ton and comes in 50lb bags from the local feed mill, and the spreader will cost you around $225 shipped to your door.

Next thing your going to need for in the spring iseither a riding lawnmower or tractor with a brush hog. Get that field mowed as short as you can get it early in the spring as soon as it's dry enough to not tear the field up with the tires while mowing it. Once it's mowed super short, immediately (within 24 hours) spray the heck out of it with a generic glyphosate (generic roundup) that you can obtain from a local feed mill for around $50-$60 per jug that will apply to 5 acres. Get it sprayed and let it sit for 10 days or so, then if you missed patches and still have green growth spray again accordingly. I used a hand sprayer from WalMart for mine because I haven't decided to cough up the $$$ to get one to mount on the tractor yet. Once it has had a chance to really rot down, it should be VERY brown. Below are before and after pics of a glyphosate application for reference.





Once you have everything sprayed and dead it is time toread your soil sample test results and apply more lime and the appropriate amount and type of fertilizer for your intended plot, and then turn the ground and disc in the lime and fertilizer and break up the existing dead vegetation from your applications of glyphosate.

My suggestion to you is to split that plot into 3x sections for different seed types in case one doesn't do well in your area for whatever reason. Then you are guaranteed to have at least 2x other types of seed in there that will produce, and if all 3 grow wellI suggest picking seed types that thatwill provide forage during different times of the year from late spring to late winter. With 1.5 acres last year and multiple seed types in different sections I had enough forage that I was able to see deer using my plot from early October to March. I also suggest not mixing seed types but rather planting seperate "strips". Brassicas will get VERY tall when mature and will choke out the sunlight to the clover.

I would suggest 1/3 done in some sort of clover/chicory mix (Tecomate Monster Mix reviews VERY well) with a spring planting, this will provide your turkeys and deer with spring/summer food sources and is a perennial that only needs mowing and will come back for 3+ years. The clover/chicory will require a fertilizer application of something similar to 10/10/10 which is equal parts nitrogen (for the chicory), phosphate (for clover), and potash (for clover).

I would suggest 1/3 in a brassica mix (I love the MO Biologic Maximum), in a late summer planting. This will provide more forage per acre than anything I have seen and the deer seem to target this from the very end of September until the middle of November in my area. This is an annual and will require reseeding every year but the deer LOVE this stuff in my area. This will require a light fertilizer application of 10/10/10 probably as well as an application that is heavy on nitrogen. I use urea which is a 46/0/0.

I would suggest 1/3 in another brassica mix in another late summer planting specifically for late season forage that can potentially be overseeded in a winter wheat mix as well. I have had great luck with the MO Biologic Full Draw because it seems to have a LOT of turnips in it, and the deer eat mine from the middle of October until March. They only eat the tops until about January, but then start to eat the actual turnip roots from then until March once it really get cold. These will help your deer herd in the winter months when those does are carrying fawns and will help keep some extra meat on their bones that time of the year and should result in bigger, healthier,and heavier fawns with a lower mortality rate. This seed will require a fertilizer application pretty much the same as the Maximum I mentioned above with a light application of 10/10/10 and a second application of urea 46/0/0.

One other thing that I figured out this year. Once you have the soil turned, I really feel it is beneficial to get the seed in the ground ASAP to prevent seeds from weeds and other unwanted plants from taking hold. My plots that I did this with turned out MUCH better than the ones that sat around for several weeks before seeding.

After seeding I typically use a drag I made from a simply piece of chain link fence with a weight on top to drag over and slightly cover the seed. Seed depth is critical.If you can get someone with a tractor and york rake on the plot after discing to smooth things out you will get a better seed bed, however this isn't critical. After seeding then drive over with the quad with the drag behind it to just barely cover the seed and then go home and pray for rain. You can make one of these drags for cheap, below is a pic of mine all hooked up behind the lawn tractor I use for spreading fertilizer/lime.



Also, I use a hand held crank seeder when applying all my seed, you can buy these for $20 or so and I feel I have better control over where how much seed is broadcasted and where the seed goes with this.

Hope this helps, I'll add more later if there is anything I think is important. Also qdmaforums.com has a wealth of info over there and lots of people that have more experience than I do, I've learned a lot from them and from Farm Hunter here as well.

GMMAT

Thanks a lot guys....I'm printing all that out and it'll make for some good reading tonight (read it again....I already read it, once).

Thank you so much.

TexasOaks

Here are some oats we planted a couple of weeks ago.





My advice is find a seed company to do business with. You will savea lot of money and you will get tons of good information of what is growing well locally. (They might let you borrow some equipment as well) An example for comparing costs isa 1/4 acre of biolgoic is $25 (weighs 25lbs?) plus tax. We payed 30 dollars (no tax)for better mix of clovers, turnips and alfalfaand it plants an acre. A 50lbbag of australian winter peas cost us $16 (plants anacre).Oats and winter wheat are like$8for 50lbs.

More dates (give you a ball park anyway):

Alfalfa
60
25-30, or drill 20-25
¼-½

Sept-Oct*, Feb-Mar

Deep, well-drained loam to clay loam soil with pH of 7 or higher
Excellent high-protein hay or forage. Check dormancy ratings of different varieties for winter hardiness and adaptation. Proper fertility, pH and well drained soils critical to high forage yields and stand longevity.

Barley
48
75-80, or drill 65-75
1-2
Sept-Oct
Soils with high pH; sensitive to acidic soils
Not susceptible to Karnal bunt. Makes good quality feed grain and forage. Of the cereal grains, most tolerant to saline and alkaline soils. Not adapted to very sandy soils.

Clover, Arrowleaf
60
8-10

¼-½


Sept-Oct*

Sandy loam soils, pH 6.0-7.0, good drainage
Good cold tolerance. Latest maturing annual clover with growth into mid-June under good moisture conditions. Good reseeding potential. Low bloat potential.

Clover, Ball
2-3

¼


Sept-Oct*

Loams and clays, pH 6.5-8.5, fair drainage
Good cold tolerance. Late maturing annual clover with most of production in April and May. Good reseeding potential. Medium bloat potential.

Clover, Berseem
12-16

¼-½


Sept-Oct*

Loams and clays, pH 6.5-8.5, poor drainage
Poor cold tolerance. Does best in creek and river bottoms. Poor reseeding potential. Low bloat potential.

Clover, Crimson
16-20
¼-½
Sept-Oct*
Sandy loams and clays, pH 6.0-7.0, good drainage
Good cold tolerance. Excellent reseeding vigor, but low percentage of hard seed. Best early forage production of the annual clovers. Earliest maturing clover.

Clover, Red
10-12
¼-½
Sept-Oct*
Loams and clays, pH 6.5-8.0, good drainage
Good cold tolerance. Weak perennial. Spring growth begins later and continues longer than the annual clovers. Upright growth for good hay. Late growth causes it to compete with perennial warm-season grasses.

Clover, Rose
12-16
¼-½
Sept-Oct*
Loams, clays, and sandy soils, pH 6.0-8.0, good drainage
Good cold tolerance. Good reseeder, but seedling vigor is poor. More productive and persistent than the other clovers in north central Texas and central Oklahoma.

Clover, Subterranean
16-20
¼-½
Sept-Oct*
Loams and clays, pH 6.0-7.3, fair drainage
Fair cold tolerance, poor drought tolerance. Tolerates close grazing because of low growth habit.

Clover, White
3-4
¼
Sept-Oct*
Loams and clays, pH 6.0-7.5, poor drainage
Good cold tolerance. Excellent reseeder. Does best in creek and river bottoms. Slow initial growth.

Clover, White Ladino
1-4

¼
Sept-Oct*
Loams and clays, pH 6.0-7.5, poor drainage
Larger, more robust type of white clover. Good cold tolerance. Does best in creek and river bottoms. Slow initial growth.

Oats, Winter
75-85, or drill 65-75
1-2
Sept-Oct
Widely adapted.
Many varieties available with different characteristics (cold tolerance, seed yield, forage production). Excellent and highly palatable hay and forage for livestock and deer. Fair tolerance to wet soils.

Peas, Field (Austrian Winter)
40-50, or drill 30
½-1
Sept-Oct
Widely adapted. Best in well-drained soils.
Good cold tolerance. Excellent soil builder. High protein hay or forage for livestock and deer.

Pea, Singletary (Roughpea)
15-20
½-1
Sept-Oct
Widely adapted.
Similar in appearance to vetch. Persistence is due to high percentage of hard seed produced.

Rape
3-5
1/4
Sept-Oct
Widely adapted.
Good cold tolerance. Large leaves and stems. Nutritious and palatable forage for livestock and deer.

Rye
100-120, drill 80-100
1-2
Sept-Nov
Widely adapted.
Good forage and hay. Best cold tolerance of the small grains. Produces more fall than spring forage. Most productive cool season annual grass on soils low in fertility, well drained, and sandy.

Sweetclover, White (Hubam)
12-16
¼-½
Feb-Mar
Loams and clays, pH 6.0-8.0, good drainage
Good drought tolerance. Produces tall, stemmy growth. Best for soil improvement, grazing, hay and honey production. White-flowered annual.

Sweetclover, Yellow Blossom (Madrid)
12-16

¼-½
Feb-Mar
Loams and clays, pH 6.0-8.0, good drainage
Good drought tolerance. Shorter growth, more leaves, and finer stems than Hubam. Best for soil improvement, grazing and hay production. Yellow-flowered biennial.

Triticale
1-2
Sept-Oct
Widely adapted.
Cross between wheat and rye, combining the cold tolerance and disease resistance of each. May produce more forage than wheat or rye alone.

Turnips

3-5
¼
Sept-Oct
Well-drained soil, pH 5.2-6.8
Good cold tolerance. Produces large, bulbous root. Nutritious and palatable forage for livestock and deer.

Vetch, Hairy

20-25,or drill 15-20
½-1
Sept-Oct
Widely adapted.
Good cold tolerance. Good re-seeding/seedling vigor. Exceptional soil builder. High protein forage/hay.

Wheat, Winter

90-110, or drill 75-90
1-2
Sept-Oct
Widely adapted.
Many varieties available with different characteristics. Good hay and forage for livestock and deer. Moderate cold tolerance, relative to the cereal grains. Better on wet, heavy soils than rye.


* May also be planted from February through early March. Early fall plantings are preferred over spring planting because of less severe weed problems and generally more favorable climatic conditions for seedling establishment.

Alyce Clover
15-20
¼-½
Mar-May
Not sensitive to soil pH.
Annual legume with fairly upright growth and relatively large leaves. Good summer browse for deer.

American Jointvetch (Aeschynomene)
15-20
1-1½
Apr-May
Moist, fertile soils. Tolerant of very wet conditions.
Reseeding annual legume. 3-6 ft. tall. Excellent for deer, duck, dove, quail. Best in wet land subject to flooding.

Buckwheat
50-60
1-1½
Apr-July
Widely adapted.
Annual. Produces abundant seed. Good for game birds and deer. Can be flooded. 70-80 day maturity.

Chufa

1½-2
Apr-June
Fertile sandy and loam soils.
Excellent for turkey. The tuber (like peanuts, but with no shell) is scratched up and eaten. 100-120 day maturity.

Chicory

¼-½
Sept-Oct
Fertile, well-drained soils, pH of 5.5 or greater.
Perennial herb. Good digestibility and mineral content. Utilized by deer and turkey.

Cowpeas
50-60
1-2
Apr-July
Widely adapted.
Annual. High in protein and very palatable to deer; seed for quail. Summer plantings with available moisture.

Illinois Bundleflower
¼-¾
Mar-May
Good in loams and clays, fair in sandy soils.
Native, perennial, legume. 3-4 ft. tall. Provides food and cover for wildlife. High in protein.

Lablab
20-25
1-3
Apr-May
Sandy loams to clays, pH of 5-7.5.
Good heat and drought tolerance. High protein. Row-cropping and protection during establishment recommended.

Lespedeza
20-30
½-1
Mar-May
Areas east of I-35. Tolerant of acidity and low Phos.
Several different species. Good food and cover for quail and turkey. Plant in patches/strips near brush, woods and water.

Millet, Browntop
25-30
¼-½
Apr-July
Widely adapted.
Annual. 60 day maturity. 2-5 ft. tall. Excellent for all birds. Produces abundant seed. Reseeds easily and quickly.

Millet, Dove Proso
30-40
¼-½
Apr-July
Widely adapted.
Annual. 3-6 ft. tall. Excellent for all game birds. Plants bend to ground as seed matures. 70-75 day maturity.

Millet, Japanese
25-35
¼-½
Apr-Sept
Widely adapted. Tolerant of flooding.
Annual. 2-5 ft. tall. Excellent for all game birds, but best for waterfowl when flooded. 60-90 day maturity.

Partridge Peas
10-15
¼-½
Apr-July
Widely adapted. Can be found growing wild.
Annual reseeding legume. 1-6 ft. tall. Excellent food and cover for quail and other game birds. 110 day maturity.

Sesame
10-15
¼-½
Apr-July
Widely adapted. Best on fertile loams.
Annual. 4-6 ft tall. Slowly shatters great quantities of oily seed. Excellent for all game birds.

Sorghum, White Game Milo
20-30
1-2
Apr-July
Widely adapted.
Annual. Birds will not eat the seed until it has dried. 3-4 ft. tall. 90-100 day maturity.

Soybean, Laredo
50-60
1-2
May-June
Widely adapted; more productive on fertile loams.
Annual forage-type soybean. Excellent spring/summer protein for deer. Good palatability. Birds relish the seed.

Sunflower, Maximilian
3-4
¼-½
Apr-May
Widely adapted. Can be found growing wild.
Native, perennial. 3-9 ft. tall. Provides food and cover for all wildlife.

Sunflower, Native (Common)
660661
¼-½
Dec-July
Widely adapted. Can be found growing wild.
Persistent reseeding annual. Excellent for all birds. High % of dormant seed. Best results when planted in winter.

Sunflower, Peredovik-type
25-30
½-¾
Apr-June
Widely adapted; more productive on fertile loams.
Annual. 4-5 ft tall. 100 day maturity. High oil content. Excellent for dove and quail; browsed heavily by deer.