farm hunter

Every spring I go to a couple properties where I have permission- and dig up young trees - to transplant on my property. I enjoy the transplanting - and have moved hundreds of trees. Some take real well - others wither - Usually its a timing thing.

Anyway - we've had a true January Thaw - and While the ground is still froze - the young trees are easy to find - so I went and did some "tree scouting" for Late March or April transplants.

I found some good Norway spruce and Larch:









It costs almost nothing to transplant - and you can easily dig trees 4 and 5 years old.

Consider moving trees on your own property even.

FH

Dan O.

You have a lot more snow than we do Farm Hunter I've put in my seedling order for next spring as I need to increase tree numbers and bring back species that are missing (oaks, etc). You should look into obtaining some 1 gallon pots. Transplant the seedlings into the pots and they will regrow all of the root tips that they need when permanently transplanted. It also meeans that you can transplant them againthroughout the year if there is enough rain.

Dan O.

jhalfhill

when do you think the best time to transplant is? as soon as the leaves of the deciduous trees start growing in the spring?

Dan O.

Earlier. Between the time that the frost comes out of the ground and the first leaves open. About the time when the ***** willows bloom. When it starts to rain in the fall another good planting window opens up.

After saying that my daughter planted trees (coniferous) all summer in the north.

Dan O.

ktswisher

Dan O, when you put the transplants into the 1 gal pots, do you use a potting mix or regular soil? Any benefit to using a potting mix??

Dan O.

The cheapest Walmart top soil mixed with 1/4 to 1/3 peat moss seems to work well. The peat moss acidifies the mix and holds fertilizer and moisture well. Use a complete soluble fertilizer that contains micronutrients like Miragro.

Dan O.

farm hunter

My oaks didn't do real well last year - I probably only got 10 out of25 of the original planting (white oaks). It was reallllllt dry - and Imulched - but itdidn't work everywhere -then - some animal (deer probably - ate a few down to nothing).

Dan - Tell me - why do I want to transplant into pots? Is it less strenuous than a transplant into the field? I know you said the roots get a chance to grow - How long do I leave them in the pots before moving to the field??

I use pots for Horse Radish - I use compost from the landfill as medium - and grow the plants in 10 gallon pots. The roots grow fast, long and straight - AND they do not spread in my lawn, or garden. In the Fall, after a few frosts - I pull the plants - shake the roots and wash and grind. When I'm done - the Main Root goes back in the pot with some new soil.

Thanks
FH

Dan O.

farm hunter; here's a few articles on container vs bare root.

http://el.erdc.usace.army.mil/wrtc/wrp/tnotes/vnem1-1.pdf

http://www.kansasforests.org/pubs/conservation/treepricelist.pdf

http://www.auburn.edu/academic/forestry_wildlife/longleafalliance/landowners/forestrestoration/seedqual5.htm

I like to grow them until the fall rains or overwinter trees until the spring. You should get very good growth and few losses from container grown. It also allows you to buy small seedlings and grow them on for a few years until they have a fighting chance in poor planting spots.

Dan O.

farm hunter

Thanks Dan

FH