just got a new pse bowmaster and carbon express 60-75 arrows with 125g broadheads but im having problems with erratic groups, i noticed that when i shoot the rear of my arrow kicks up and to the right, how can i fix this problem with bowseason wed.
thanks
nick

Sounds like your getting fletching contact. You should be able to adjust your rest to eliminate this or take it to a pro shop and have them tune it.

Sounds like you have a couple of problems going on. One sounds like some fletch contact and I would look at the spine of your arrow as well( you may need to crank up or drop the poundage or it could be infact the wrong arrow for your entire setup). You mentioned 60-75 arrows, I use carbon express myself and I have never heard this particular term or discription. First of all to determine what arrow is best suited for your setup you must look at arrow length & poundage your bow will be or is set at for hunting...this will allow you to determine what the correct spine/model and what weight fp or BH should be used to get perfect flight. I would suggest posting more particular information, such as arrow length, Model of arrow(CE 200, 300 and so on) and poundage your bow is set at. You can' t use any model arrow for whatever poundage as this will create a weak or to stiff spine and cause arrow flight problems.

here is a link to the easton tuning guide this can be printed in PDF format and may help. http://www.eastonarchery.com/news/tu...ning_guide.pdf

Whatever you do make sure to correct the flight problems before heading to the woods on weds., the arrow distrubance will greatly effect the outcome on game! If it seems to much to handle, as suggested take it your proshop and get one of the staff to help you straighten her out.

Good luck

they are Carbon Express by game Tracker arrows Terminator select 60-75 which is the lb-age, i' d say i pull back about 65 lbs maybe 1-2lbs more less
i have a 30in arrow,but i believe these are the correct arrows, the guy at the sports shop didnt tune it as they were swamped and i wouldnt have my bow back for weeks, i know my arrow rest needs to come up a tad, but what other factors, could a paper tune fix this?

again thanks for the help guys its GREATLY appreciated

I am sorry I should have realized 6075' s I thought maybe you were talking about your bow limbs or something. Yes I looked at my arrow chart and it would appear those shafts are ok, however you may need to tweak the poundage up or down a little to get better flight or try 100 gr heads.

Take a look at the link I posted it has good description and pictures on paper tuning and fixing arrow flight problems.

If you are fishtailing to the right it appears your rest may need to come to the right and your nock point come up with the up kick you are seeing. However if your getting fletch contact moving your rest up may elevate the up kick. Unfortunately the only way is to go through all the motions and correct one thing at a time. Put some white foot powder or deodarant on the fletch and then see if your making contact with the riser, rest, etc. This will help in diagnosing if you have a clearance problems. If good to go do the paper tune and consult the easton arrow guide or your owners manual should have a section on paper tuning for details of fixing what you see on the paper. If you have tried everything and still not getting bullet holes, you may need to have your proshop check the timing of your bow.

Good luck

A peper test would help! If your sport shops are like those around me, you may wait until the end of the archery season to get any help there. I agree with the nock being too low and the adjustment of the rest but be careful not to try to fix more than one problem at a time. What I mean is, with paper tuning, take care of the fishtailing then take care of the porposing up and down. The up and down should be easier since it usually is a nock point change. What we don' t know is whether you shoot fingers or a release. If you shoot a release, looking for bullet holes is fine. If you shoot fingers, you will never consistently get them no matter how you tune. Do your target points shoot the same as the broadhead? When I have a problem, I always shoot my arrow through paper. When I do this, I shoot four arrows...two arrows with no fletching at all (bare shafts) and two with my typical 5" left hand helical feathers. At ten yards from the paper, the tears can be big. Since I shoot fingers, I need to look for a tear that rises up and to the right about a quarter inch. I adjust the right and left to get the tear to go left or right. This is done either by moving the rest for the big changes or adjusting the tension on the rest for finer tuning. Then move the nock to change the up and down. With a drop away, shoot through type rest, you can adjust the tension on it. I put the powder on the riser and rest to check for arrow clearance. If it is removed after a shot with fletching, something is touching. What skeeter said is very true. Fix one thing at a time. I find that after I paper tune, my broadheads, rocky mtn ultra - 125 g, hit exactly where my field points do.