A peper test would help! If your sport shops are like those around me, you may wait until the end of the archery season to get any help there. I agree with the nock being too low and the adjustment of the rest but be careful not to try to fix more than one problem at a time. What I mean is, with paper tuning, take care of the fishtailing then take care of the porposing up and down. The up and down should be easier since it usually is a nock point change. What we don' t know is whether you shoot fingers or a release. If you shoot a release, looking for bullet holes is fine. If you shoot fingers, you will never consistently get them no matter how you tune. Do your target points shoot the same as the broadhead? When I have a problem, I always shoot my arrow through paper. When I do this, I shoot four arrows...two arrows with no fletching at all (bare shafts) and two with my typical 5" left hand helical feathers. At ten yards from the paper, the tears can be big. Since I shoot fingers, I need to look for a tear that rises up and to the right about a quarter inch. I adjust the right and left to get the tear to go left or right. This is done either by moving the rest for the big changes or adjusting the tension on the rest for finer tuning. Then move the nock to change the up and down. With a drop away, shoot through type rest, you can adjust the tension on it. I put the powder on the riser and rest to check for arrow clearance. If it is removed after a shot with fletching, something is touching. What skeeter said is very true. Fix one thing at a time. I find that after I paper tune, my broadheads, rocky mtn ultra - 125 g, hit exactly where my field points do.