Let's see pics of your hunting blinds!
#131

You have beautiful photos. I also love to hunt deer, although I have not hunted anything, ....Edited by Champlain Islander... Maybe I'll just hunt ducks.
Last edited by Champlain Islander; 04-05-2016 at 06:33 AM. Reason: comments not in keeping with a hunting site- rules 4 & 6- PM sent
#132
Fork Horn
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: MS
Posts: 343

Needing some ideas from you guys on the flooring and roofing of the blind I'm going to build for this coming up season. The blind will be 4X5 and 1 ft off the ground. Still debating on the height of it, can't decide to put the 4X4's 2 ft or 1 ft in the ground. I'm going to use treated plywood or marine grade plywood for the walls, but haven't decided what to do for flooring or roofing. Any ideas?
#134
Fork Horn
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: MS
Posts: 343
#135

If you ground freezes in winter where you live and you are going to put your supports in the ground, they should be no less than 3 feet deep, below the freeze line so the freezing of the ground doesn't push them up and make your blind not level. Although if possible, you would be better off building it off the ground using three or four trees to support the stand. If you are shy a tree you can always use a treated 4x4 in place of it. That is what I did with this stand I build three years ago. I then went around the stand with die cut camo material. It blends in well and I have a 350 degree view as opposed to a 180 degree if in a tree line on the ground. Deer come from all directions.



Last edited by Oldtimr; 06-21-2016 at 09:13 AM.
#136
Fork Horn
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: MS
Posts: 343

Oldtimr, I hunt in MS so no worrying about the ground freezing. That's not a bad idea, but the issue I run into is there are no trees grouped like that visible to the lane I am wanting to view. I assume you used treated 2x6's by looking at your pics. How are they holding up? I have some concern about how long the wood will hold up.
#137

They are holding up very well. I build another stand 10 years ago and it is still safe to hunt out of. The thing you must do is check it out well before the season each year because the wind moving the trees will pull some of the nails out some. I used a lot of 3 inch coated screws in this stand last year after I found several nails pulled so I am anxious to see how they held up.
#138
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Allegan, MI
Posts: 8,019

Use treated wood and they will last forever. Just use regular plywood and put a couple of coats of paint on it. Marine plywood is ridiculously expensive for a blind. I covered my entire plywood blind with pieces of scrap steel from a pole building construction site and then spray painted it a couple shades of green to blend in with the foliage. I would at least put a good metal roof of some sort on it and have the edges out a few inches past the front and sides and a good 6" or more at the back area where the water will be draining off when it rains.
#139
Fork Horn
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: MS
Posts: 343

Good thing to know, TG! Marine plywood is very expensive! I was thinking about coating the walls with Thompson's water seal, but I'm pretty sure that stuff is outrageous as well! You think tin would be ok to use for the roof?
#140
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Allegan, MI
Posts: 8,019

Tin will work fine. The roof of mine is actually a piece of aluminum that was once used for a patio roof. I had that one piece left for many years after using some of it for the sides and roof of a porch I built onto my cabin up north quite a long time ago.