help......AGAIN read carefully
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: / / USA
Posts: 49
help......AGAIN read carefully
well its me again, hope that I am not pestering the hell out of anyone. lol anyway I have some questions regarding calling. I will get into my stand anywhere from 5-6 am, daylight is 6:45, when should I start to grunt for the bucks? ONly when I see one or what? Then I have another problem. THe bean fields that make up 80% of the land that I hunt just got cut today. When should I go back out to my stand? Next year lol......uh please don't tell me that!!!! My third question is, can I over do it on the attractants. I have corn, tinks 69 and apple flavored block. I am thinking of going back to Rural King and getting more stuff like.....deer pee, more fruit flavored blocks and maybe some of the honey "stuff" that you pore on a rotted tree stump. Is this a good or bad idea? I used deer cain but I honestly think is scared them off more than attracted them b/c there is NO sign of any kind of deer that have been remotley close to where I put it. Oh one more my stand is a 20 foot ladder stand, I would like to have a climbing stand b/c I don't plan on hunting this same area until deer season ends. My ladder stand is too much trouble to move around and too noisy. I am concerned with the $$$ of a climbing stand should I just get a portable stand and put it where ever I will hunt next? It wouldn't be as much trouble as that "big ole" ladder stand. well thats that, hope you can help. Thanks
#2
RE: help......AGAIN read carefully
I haven't had a lot of luck with blind calling, nor I really see the point too. first of all it lets them know where you are exactly, the point of a stand or blind is suprise. I only blind call when rattling, so I would say keep the tube in your pocket. I use many calls to stop or bring deer into a shooting lane or distance. I have used grunts, doe bleats and fawn bawls all work in different applications. (an example i had a doe just out of my comfortable range on Saturday, so I gave her a fawn bawl, she stopped and approached into my range and well freezer is full now) The caution with any calling is over doing it, if the deer are coming shut the hell up, if the stop and ponder whats making the noise shut the hell up and if they turn to walk away get on the tube or bleat, etc. Practice and real life experience will help determine what, when and how to call your deer.
As far as harvest, up here the deer will come out and eat business as usual while they harvesting, but their might be different. Best to just give her a whirl or maybe someone else will give you more precise ideas particular to beans!
Scents well I ain't the man to ask, I am a firm believer no scents is best. I far more believe in scouting and good old plain fashion know the deer in your woods and the routine. This is not to say they don't work, just never really bought into laying down mock scrapes, etc. Here's why IMO I have found many dominant bucks check the scrapes at night, they often circle downwind of this scrapes and will often pick up you the hunter and vanish. So if your going to hunt scrapes, rublines, etc. be vary aware of the downwind sides. I like to hunt a good 100 yards of them, in likely moving routes, especially rublines (natural). If using scent make sure it is natural to your area, in other words don't use apples if their ain't any around beside the local supermarket...this will only hieghten their awareness.
As far as cain, nothing works better than plain old salt. I pour salt out (table) salt on the ground and take some water to pour on the ground before and after I desperse. this will allow it to soak in the ground, minimizes the amount ingested by the deer & lasts for a long period of time. If you can do it before natural rain it is even more deadly. No word of a lie I find 4 x 4 burrows dug where I placed this salt by deer digging to get a taste.
Tree stand, I use ladder and hang on's. Main reason our trees don't work well with climbers due to small diameter and smooth(mostly popular & birch). If you have large based trees that would allow the climber to grab on and climb with min. slippage, that would be the route to go for moving a lot. Hang ons are smaller but they do require some time and aren't as easy to move as most think. But I guess you can probably buy 2 for the price of one and have really 2 different locations, so again I would say it depends on the trees in your area.
I think that was all of your questions, hopefully some might help or apply to your situation.
Good Luck and welcome to the board!
As far as harvest, up here the deer will come out and eat business as usual while they harvesting, but their might be different. Best to just give her a whirl or maybe someone else will give you more precise ideas particular to beans!
Scents well I ain't the man to ask, I am a firm believer no scents is best. I far more believe in scouting and good old plain fashion know the deer in your woods and the routine. This is not to say they don't work, just never really bought into laying down mock scrapes, etc. Here's why IMO I have found many dominant bucks check the scrapes at night, they often circle downwind of this scrapes and will often pick up you the hunter and vanish. So if your going to hunt scrapes, rublines, etc. be vary aware of the downwind sides. I like to hunt a good 100 yards of them, in likely moving routes, especially rublines (natural). If using scent make sure it is natural to your area, in other words don't use apples if their ain't any around beside the local supermarket...this will only hieghten their awareness.
As far as cain, nothing works better than plain old salt. I pour salt out (table) salt on the ground and take some water to pour on the ground before and after I desperse. this will allow it to soak in the ground, minimizes the amount ingested by the deer & lasts for a long period of time. If you can do it before natural rain it is even more deadly. No word of a lie I find 4 x 4 burrows dug where I placed this salt by deer digging to get a taste.
Tree stand, I use ladder and hang on's. Main reason our trees don't work well with climbers due to small diameter and smooth(mostly popular & birch). If you have large based trees that would allow the climber to grab on and climb with min. slippage, that would be the route to go for moving a lot. Hang ons are smaller but they do require some time and aren't as easy to move as most think. But I guess you can probably buy 2 for the price of one and have really 2 different locations, so again I would say it depends on the trees in your area.
I think that was all of your questions, hopefully some might help or apply to your situation.
Good Luck and welcome to the board!
#3
Fork Horn
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: North Vernon Indiana USA
Posts: 354
RE: help......AGAIN read carefully
I wouldn't call until you can see really well. I have never done any good with a grunt call, but I have called in Bucks during the rut with The Can call(estrous bleat).The beans getting cut will have no effect on the deer, the deer are actually curious about the combine. Go back whenever you can hunt again. I don't use scents that much, other then scent away. Make sure it is legal to bait in your state. I would make sure it is the rut before you use the Tinks 69, because that is a rut lure.
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