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Patch question

Old 01-30-2017, 06:37 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by cayugad
"Your are man Cayugad..I still use your grinding oil mix for patch lube...50 yds with peep sight 6 o,clock hold i touch the balls not bad for peep and open sights ..

those.50 reading glasses in amber are just super I can now see my sights and use my pistol too......"


4 ounces NAPA Auto Parts #765-1526 Soluble Cutting & Grinding Oil
1 ounce Murphy's Oil Soap
7 ounces 91% Isopropyl alcohol
16 ounces tap water


Before I went to the Castor Oil I mixed and shot a lot of the Grinding Oil Moose Milk. And like you, it worked really good. Never had a complaint. In fact I still have a bottle of the NAPA Grinding Oil around the house. I was thinking of experimenting on making a more solid conical lube out of it and see how it works.

That mention of the 50/50 reading glasses .... that is a great idea. After the cataract eye surgery the front sight is a little blurry. That might solve the whole problem. thanks!!

You should have seen me sneaking in back door of eye doctor with muzz...It seems that .50/.75 is best anything larger your target will start to blur at 50 yards..

You should see me now with my browning buckmark pistol at 25 yards I am deadly with .50 power amber glasses on ...Kids say SPROUL IS MAN...

IF you have prescription glasses you can take 1 eye shooting eye and put a .50 power on top...

You cannot buy .50 or .75 glasses locally they have to be ordered on line.mine were 11 bucks tyd like shooting glasses big lense in AMBER ..
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Old 01-30-2017, 10:44 AM
  #12  
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The amber may help your sight-seeing, but that color (using reg sunglasses) makes it harder for me to spot moving / standing deer. I can't use them in the Huron National Forest. Its not often where I'll be looking into patches of mixed sunlight and shade and need those sunglasses for glare.

Last edited by GoexBlackhorn; 01-30-2017 at 10:48 AM.
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Old 02-03-2017, 06:37 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by cayugad
Starting out, I think most of us used pre cut patches. Then as we got more into the sport we began to experiment and try different things. I personally cut my patch at the muzzle. That way I always get a perfect centered patch. Also its cheaper, and if you get pre lubed, pre cut patches, and your not an avid shooter, they can and will go sour on you sometimes. I can remember when I had pre cut lubed patches stored in a Tupperware bowl one time. I finally wanted them, opened the bowl and about dropped over from the stink.

Also pre cut, pre lubed patches begin to basically decompose with time. And if they get old you get more tearing and over char when you load and shoot them. Old patches will blow apart when you shoot them.

When I load I start with clean and unlubed 100% cotton pillow tick. A simple cloth purchased at Wal Mart in bulk. Right before shooting I can add the lube of my choice and then load patch and ball. Everything if fresh and the cloth is nice and strong.

Good luck.
Hate to burst your bubble Cayugad but I disagree. I have pre-lubed patches in various tins, bags, tubs, etc. that I have no problems with depending on what they were lubed with. I have probably 500 patches factory pre-cut and pre-lubed with Bore butter and while I'll admit they're dried out some, they only need a little fresh lube rubbed on and they're good to go and I've never had any problems with them burning through if I freshen them up.

Why?? Because it's vegetable based and doesn't rot and stink like animal fat based lubes can and will do. It gets dry and that's about it. It DOES NOT rot the patch like animal based lubes or homemade concoctions of catpi$$ and Murphy's oil soap and whatever else do.

The only problem I've ever had with Bore butter other than drying out over time is that it gets stiff when it's cold. I've tried (and have several tubs) of TOW's mink oil and I'm not impressed with it at all. Never did get consistent groups with that stuff...might be good for greasing leather but I think it sucks as a patch lube.

That said, there are some here who use spit (your own saliva) patches and swear by that. There are some who use a petroleum based sprays like liquid wrench and have good results. Some use olive oil and bee's wax or straight olive oil while others use some concoction of their own. I can remember one forum member saying he used Sno-Seal brand leather treatment for years with good results. I say to each his own.... but I'm also saying that the OP shouldn't take everything he reads on these forums as gospel.

coalforge...

My advice to you as a new black powder shooter is to do some shooting whenever you have time and find what works best for you. Don't be afraid to experiment!! When I was a 16 year old kid with his first ML rifle, I shot for several years with nothing more than Crisco for a lube and it worked fine... but it's not something you want to store pre-lubed patches with as it will dry out.

Recently, I've tried Frontier's Anti-Rust and Patch Lube and like it a lot. Time will tell, I have probably 100 square cut patches (no... patches don't have to be round and you don''t have to cut them at the muzzle) pre-lubed with it and we'll see how it is the next time I shoot again.

BPS

Last edited by Blackpowdersmoke; 02-04-2017 at 02:21 PM.
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Old 02-04-2017, 05:57 AM
  #14  
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Barry,

You might have used too much of the mink oil. I used it for years with good results. I like that it stays soft when cold.
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Old 02-04-2017, 11:39 AM
  #15  
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I've been happy since getting away from animal fats and paraffin wax bore butter.
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Old 02-04-2017, 02:16 PM
  #16  
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Sorry sproulman...

I addressed you in my earlier post and I meant to address the OP, coalforge.

BPS
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Old 02-04-2017, 02:39 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Muley Hunter
Barry,

You might have used too much of the mink oil. I used it for years with good results. I like that it stays soft when cold.
Maybe so Pete but I usually start out with less rather than more when it comes to any lube I've tried. I'll agree that it doesn't stiffen up when cold, but the few times I tried it I wasn't impressed with the inconsistent groups I got. It did load rather easily from what I remember. Maybe I need to give it a second chance with a tighter patch material.

BPS
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Old 02-04-2017, 04:03 PM
  #18  
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Blackpowdersmoke .... "Hate to burst your bubble Cayugad but I disagree. I have pre-lubed patches in various tins, bags, tubs, etc. that I have no problems with depending on what they were lubed with."

No bubble burst. As you qualified in your response. "Depending on what they were lubed with." Although Bore Butter to me is worthless. It might work on conical bullets that are dry cast, but I like other lubes much better for that. And some patches, "Depending on what they are lubed with" will go bad over time. They can stink! And rot. Which is why I never use a pre lubed patch of any kind. I would rather make them as I need them and use them.
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Old 02-04-2017, 05:44 PM
  #19  
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Hate to mess with lubing patches at the range so my patches are pre-lubed. Stinky smelling lube and animal grease are out. i use store bought patches as well as square patches made from unwashed drill cloth. All kinds of stuff makes good patch lube. Among the stuff I have tried are:


1. GoJo hand cleaner: Excellent patch lube. It's a good bore cleaner too.


2. Goop: Excellent patch lube. Easier to apply than GoJo.


3. Sperm whale oil: Excellent but the stuff stinks and is no longer available.


4. Frontier's solid patch lube: Excellent .


5. Outers Leather R Seal: Excellent.


Much of my patched round ball shooting is with a .54 caliber TC Fire Hawk. Recently drug out my CVA Stag Horn (1/32" twist). It shoots patched round balls like a laser.


IMO: Consistency in loading is more important than the type of patch lube used.

Last edited by falcon; 02-04-2017 at 05:59 PM.
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Old 02-04-2017, 07:16 PM
  #20  
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I keep telling you guys - you ought to give Liquid Wrench a try.
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