Newbie Question-Bow advice
#12
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From: Brookport IL now in Colorado
I am a new traditional archer myself and shot about the same set up you are talking about with a compound except I was shooting a 30" draw. I got a ton of good advice on this forum. I chose to purchase a new bow to be assured of what I was getting. I bought a 60", 45#@28" CheckMate Falcon. The bow was relatively inexpensive when compared to some of the traditional bows you find. I love shooting the bow and as LBR says it is definitely "light in the hand" and I haven't noticed any hand shock whatsoever. I have been pleased with the 45# weight that I chose because I have been able to become accustomed to drawing it in a very short time.
#14
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: Pennington minnesota
Very good advise by these guys,please don't over-bow yourself starting out,it tends to lead to development of bad shooting habits that are much more difficult to get rid of than they are to develop. You'll soon find that trad. archery is addicting and much more fun than shooting a compound you'll have fun! Cam [8d]
#15
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Covington LA USA
All good advise.
I would also recommend getting with someone you respect that is expericed with Trad equipment or reading any of the good books out there.
I went from a compound to a recurve and the transition was much smoother and more fun because I learned how to shoot instinctively using Jay Kidwell's "Instinctive Archery".
If I had just winged it I think I would have had a much harder time making a succesful transition. Now shooting either bow is fun and I am accurate with both.
Good Luck.
I would also recommend getting with someone you respect that is expericed with Trad equipment or reading any of the good books out there.
I went from a compound to a recurve and the transition was much smoother and more fun because I learned how to shoot instinctively using Jay Kidwell's "Instinctive Archery".
If I had just winged it I think I would have had a much harder time making a succesful transition. Now shooting either bow is fun and I am accurate with both.
Good Luck.
#16
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: Saskatoon Saskatchewan Canada
Firstly, thanks again to all for your advice. My Falcon (Zebra with yew limbs) arrived Monday and I can scarcely put it down. She is nimble and light, a beauty too! My compound (Pro 38) has not been touched. I can truly say I'm having fun. I've put the cart a little before the horse since the bow has arrived before Byron Ferguson's book. I'll read it once it arrives - for now, becoming accustomed to this beauty is my goal! <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> Oh yes, I justified this new acquisition as a birthday present <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>.
Mark
Mark
#17
Typical Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 600
Likes: 0
From: California
<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>LOL, Congratulations on your new bow. If you can't do the picture thing so we can all enjoy it, don't worry about it. Just send your brand spankin new bow to me and I'll take care of that for ya. <img src=icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_tongue.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
It's good to get aquainted
Don't forget about your brace height. You new weapon has a sweet spot that only you can find and once you do she's really gonna get sweet. Meaning by adjusting your bows brace height up or down by twisting or untwisting the string you find the place where she is the quietest, fastest, smoothest and most stable. If the bow isn't already equipped with a dynaflight97 string, pick a couple up. I prefer the flemish twist design and some prefer the endless loop but whichever way you go you won't regret dyna97. Best string material on the market in my opinion.
Anyway, once your string stretches in, you can finalize locating the correct brace height and it won't move from there. If you decide to add silencers, start by measureing the string from where it contacts the bow to the same spot on the other limb. Divide it into quarters or thirds and place your silencer on each quarter mark nearest the limb or on the third mark nearest the limb. The reason for the two different locations is that one takes out the high pitched modulations and the other the lower pitched modulations and you will find which one your bow produces and which location will hush it the best. You're already shooting, so you must have gotten you nock point located. But just in case, I started mine at 3/8" and that seems to work well for me. You can finalize up and down and arrow spine when you either bare shaft or paper tune the bow. I think you made the right choice going with Byrons book. From what I've read of Asbels, it isn't bad either. Have fun. You've started a journey that is one of the best lifestyles anyone could ever hope to choose. BTW, what excuse you gonna use for your next bow? <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
Mike
It's good to get aquainted
Don't forget about your brace height. You new weapon has a sweet spot that only you can find and once you do she's really gonna get sweet. Meaning by adjusting your bows brace height up or down by twisting or untwisting the string you find the place where she is the quietest, fastest, smoothest and most stable. If the bow isn't already equipped with a dynaflight97 string, pick a couple up. I prefer the flemish twist design and some prefer the endless loop but whichever way you go you won't regret dyna97. Best string material on the market in my opinion.
Anyway, once your string stretches in, you can finalize locating the correct brace height and it won't move from there. If you decide to add silencers, start by measureing the string from where it contacts the bow to the same spot on the other limb. Divide it into quarters or thirds and place your silencer on each quarter mark nearest the limb or on the third mark nearest the limb. The reason for the two different locations is that one takes out the high pitched modulations and the other the lower pitched modulations and you will find which one your bow produces and which location will hush it the best. You're already shooting, so you must have gotten you nock point located. But just in case, I started mine at 3/8" and that seems to work well for me. You can finalize up and down and arrow spine when you either bare shaft or paper tune the bow. I think you made the right choice going with Byrons book. From what I've read of Asbels, it isn't bad either. Have fun. You've started a journey that is one of the best lifestyles anyone could ever hope to choose. BTW, what excuse you gonna use for your next bow? <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>Mike
#18
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: Saskatoon Saskatchewan Canada
Mike, I'm obviously on a steep learning curve but it is a pleasure not a chore. Thanks for the advice regarding string silencers - I've been looking for info on the correct placement. As for the nock height, I've gone with the 3/8" position and all appears well. Brace height adjustment will be dabbled with over time - she is presently at 7.5". Books are my downfall; I've browsed through the Asbell info and will commit some of it to memory but, before deciding on a 'style' to pursue, I will read the Ferguson volume. That's just another of my idiosyncrasies - gather all info known to man and still make a poor choice <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> <img src=icon_smile_blush.gif border=0 align=middle> <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>. This weekend I'll try posting a pic or two; i appreciate your willingness to look the bow over <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>. As for the next bow, the wedding anniversary is less than a month away<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>!!
Mark
Mark
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