New guy needs help.
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln IL USA
I decided to try a recurve after using a compound. The compound was rigged by the shop, but I' d like to set this up and finish the arrows myself.
I would appreciate suggestions on what needs to be done to the bow such as a soft material on the shelf where the arrow sits or a rest like the compound, silencers and nocking markers on the string, etc. The bow weight is 45 pounds.
With arrows is there a rule of thumb as to type, weight, diameter, length, type and weight of broadhead, feathers or plastic, etc.
Lastly, for the moment at least, is there a frequent questions section or a basic facts area anywhere on the site?
Thanks,
Ed
I would appreciate suggestions on what needs to be done to the bow such as a soft material on the shelf where the arrow sits or a rest like the compound, silencers and nocking markers on the string, etc. The bow weight is 45 pounds.
With arrows is there a rule of thumb as to type, weight, diameter, length, type and weight of broadhead, feathers or plastic, etc.
Lastly, for the moment at least, is there a frequent questions section or a basic facts area anywhere on the site?
Thanks,
Ed
#2
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,284
Likes: 3
From: west central wi USA
Welcome to the dark side. The process of setting things up will be a good education.
Let' s see... It is easier to shoot instinctively if the arrow is close to your hand. It becomes like pointing your finger. I' d recommend shooting off the shelf. I glue a matchstick sized piece of leather across the shelf at the high point of the radius or right above the deepest point of the grip. This is the contact point for the arrow. I then take the fuzzy part of self-adhesive velcro (you can buy it in long strips) and lay it over the shelf. When the velcro wears out, I replace it. Shooting off the shelf dictates the I shoot feathers. They collapse as they travel through the shelf. Vanes will cause arrows to kick around wildly. Broadheads usually require helical fletching to stabilize them and keep them from planing. As far as type and weight of the arrows, I shot 2016 and 2018 aluminums in my 45# recurve with a 29" draw with no problems. That' s a starting point for you. The string will probably need silencers. They don' t have to be fancy, just something to interupt the harmonics of the string. I use two " V" shaped pieces of bucksin. I cut a small slit across at the point of the " V" , wrap it around the string, and pull the arms of the " V" through the slit. One of these at each end silences the string.
Nocking points can be store-bought or home-made. I find that putting them 1/8" above level works for me on whatever bow I use. That is something you' ll have to determine for yourself. Put your nocking point on, shoot an arrow. If the tail of the arrow kicks up as it leaves the bow, move the nocking point up. If it kicks down, move it down.
Let' s see... It is easier to shoot instinctively if the arrow is close to your hand. It becomes like pointing your finger. I' d recommend shooting off the shelf. I glue a matchstick sized piece of leather across the shelf at the high point of the radius or right above the deepest point of the grip. This is the contact point for the arrow. I then take the fuzzy part of self-adhesive velcro (you can buy it in long strips) and lay it over the shelf. When the velcro wears out, I replace it. Shooting off the shelf dictates the I shoot feathers. They collapse as they travel through the shelf. Vanes will cause arrows to kick around wildly. Broadheads usually require helical fletching to stabilize them and keep them from planing. As far as type and weight of the arrows, I shot 2016 and 2018 aluminums in my 45# recurve with a 29" draw with no problems. That' s a starting point for you. The string will probably need silencers. They don' t have to be fancy, just something to interupt the harmonics of the string. I use two " V" shaped pieces of bucksin. I cut a small slit across at the point of the " V" , wrap it around the string, and pull the arms of the " V" through the slit. One of these at each end silences the string.
Nocking points can be store-bought or home-made. I find that putting them 1/8" above level works for me on whatever bow I use. That is something you' ll have to determine for yourself. Put your nocking point on, shoot an arrow. If the tail of the arrow kicks up as it leaves the bow, move the nocking point up. If it kicks down, move it down.
#3
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: Apple Valley CA USA
I heartily recommend the book, " Instinctive Shooting" by G. Fred Asbell. It is a great place to start, plus there is a section at the end of the book which provides information on building your own arrows.
#4
Typical Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 600
Likes: 0
From: California
I agree. A book or two would be an excellent way to start. Asbels is good and so is Byron Fergussons (sp). Two different methods of shooting too, which will help you decide on which way will be best for you, or at least will give you a running start at it.
Most of all, it' s a heck of a lot of fun. So, have some of it.
Most of all, it' s a heck of a lot of fun. So, have some of it.



