Welcome to the dark side. The process of setting things up will be a good education.
Let' s see... It is easier to shoot instinctively if the arrow is close to your hand. It becomes like pointing your finger. I' d recommend shooting off the shelf. I glue a matchstick sized piece of leather across the shelf at the high point of the radius or right above the deepest point of the grip. This is the contact point for the arrow. I then take the fuzzy part of self-adhesive velcro (you can buy it in long strips) and lay it over the shelf. When the velcro wears out, I replace it. Shooting off the shelf dictates the I shoot feathers. They collapse as they travel through the shelf. Vanes will cause arrows to kick around wildly. Broadheads usually require helical fletching to stabilize them and keep them from planing. As far as type and weight of the arrows, I shot 2016 and 2018 aluminums in my 45# recurve with a 29" draw with no problems. That' s a starting point for you. The string will probably need silencers. They don' t have to be fancy, just something to interupt the harmonics of the string. I use two " V" shaped pieces of bucksin. I cut a small slit across at the point of the " V" , wrap it around the string, and pull the arms of the " V" through the slit. One of these at each end silences the string.
Nocking points can be store-bought or home-made. I find that putting them 1/8" above level works for me on whatever bow I use. That is something you' ll have to determine for yourself. Put your nocking point on, shoot an arrow. If the tail of the arrow kicks up as it leaves the bow, move the nocking point up. If it kicks down, move it down.