Draw weights for moose?
, I was wondering what draw weights would be heavy enough to moose hunt with. I`m currently a 29" draw with a compound.
09-02-2003 | 11:22 AM
#2
Boone & Crockett
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 15,295
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From: Mississippi USA
RE: Draw weights for moose?
As much as you can comfortably and accurately handle! Honestly, I don' t know what the bare minimum should be, as I have only hunted moose once and didn' t get a shot. From the research I did for my hunt, I would be comfortable with 65 lbs with a good recurve or longbow. It' s very important that your arrows are flying straight and your broadheads are sharp, and of course you have to put the arrow in the right spot. I should say that I' d rather limit my shots with 55# and be accurate than 75# and be overbowed.
Chad
Chad
09-02-2003 | 04:54 PM
#3
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,994
Likes: 0
From: egypt
RE: Draw weights for moose?
Chads about right on the button. YOu really dont need 65lbs to shoot a moose as I know of folks here in Alaska doing it with 55 pounders. Most of us however are shooting somewhere in the ball park of 60-65. A couple of us lost souls have some bows 70+, only one guy I know hunts with anything over the 70lb mark consistently.
Going from wheels to sticks I would DEFINATLY shoot a specific weight bow a few times to see if you can manage it COMFORTABLY!
And the big thing and Chad hit it dead on is PERFECT arrow flight. Its one of the bigger IMHO factors to penetration. Everything will add up (weight, speed, diameter, bh design and sharpness, arrow flight, distance) but the I think what most stickbow folks overlook the most is getting an arrow to fly like a dart, it can be done with a little trial and error!
That said I have killed 2 moose now, one with a 64lb bob lee recurve and one with my old 60lb crusader longbow. Both bulls were shot with zwickey 2 blade broadheads that were scalpel sharp, not serrated sharp. I dont sharpen them at such an angle that I' ll roll the blade, but I do polish them up quite a bit to the point they' d cut ya just lookin at them! Its proven very well for me from sheep and moose to whitetails and even grouse (although I am a big fan of leaving my arrow in if possible in game birds, I' ve been known to run out of bird arrows from time to time on a big game hunt as it can get fast and furious, not to mention one of hte most awesome times you' ll have in the hunting woods when the birds are around!)
If you can handle it I would tell you to go at or very near 60lbs. JUST DONT GO OVERBOWED!!!
Going from wheels to sticks I would DEFINATLY shoot a specific weight bow a few times to see if you can manage it COMFORTABLY!
And the big thing and Chad hit it dead on is PERFECT arrow flight. Its one of the bigger IMHO factors to penetration. Everything will add up (weight, speed, diameter, bh design and sharpness, arrow flight, distance) but the I think what most stickbow folks overlook the most is getting an arrow to fly like a dart, it can be done with a little trial and error!
That said I have killed 2 moose now, one with a 64lb bob lee recurve and one with my old 60lb crusader longbow. Both bulls were shot with zwickey 2 blade broadheads that were scalpel sharp, not serrated sharp. I dont sharpen them at such an angle that I' ll roll the blade, but I do polish them up quite a bit to the point they' d cut ya just lookin at them! Its proven very well for me from sheep and moose to whitetails and even grouse (although I am a big fan of leaving my arrow in if possible in game birds, I' ve been known to run out of bird arrows from time to time on a big game hunt as it can get fast and furious, not to mention one of hte most awesome times you' ll have in the hunting woods when the birds are around!)
If you can handle it I would tell you to go at or very near 60lbs. JUST DONT GO OVERBOWED!!!
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