New to Trad
02-08-2008, 01:48 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: WI
Posts: 338
New to Trad
I’ve been bowhunting for over 30 years, started with recurve for a couple years as a teen, then went to a compound. I’ve always shot with fingers, and used sights but no peep. Now I’ve inherited an old 45 lb recurve, and want to start using it. I’m asking for advice.
1. I’ve already purchased a string, but I am afraid it is not an appropriate one. I would estimate the brace height with this string to be over 10”. How would I go about determining the correct brace height / string length?
2. I have low end carbon arrows with vanes. Do you think they’d be worth a try with the recurve? I have my compound set around 55 lbs or less.
3. Any advice about setting up the bow, arrows, etc. would be appreciated. I intend to shoot bare bow / instinctive, no sights.
4. I am committed to sticking with my 145 gr. screw in bear razorheads. I have a good supply of them, and they’ve worked really well for me.
5. Do you hold your draw for any length of time, or pretty much release the instant you hit your anchor point?
6. The reason I'm doing this is that a very high percentage (almost all) of my bow kills are inside of 20 yards, and I figure this will simplify and maybe even improve the shot process.
1. I’ve already purchased a string, but I am afraid it is not an appropriate one. I would estimate the brace height with this string to be over 10”. How would I go about determining the correct brace height / string length?
2. I have low end carbon arrows with vanes. Do you think they’d be worth a try with the recurve? I have my compound set around 55 lbs or less.
3. Any advice about setting up the bow, arrows, etc. would be appreciated. I intend to shoot bare bow / instinctive, no sights.
4. I am committed to sticking with my 145 gr. screw in bear razorheads. I have a good supply of them, and they’ve worked really well for me.
5. Do you hold your draw for any length of time, or pretty much release the instant you hit your anchor point?
6. The reason I'm doing this is that a very high percentage (almost all) of my bow kills are inside of 20 yards, and I figure this will simplify and maybe even improve the shot process.
02-08-2008, 02:10 PM
#2
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 7,571
RE: New to Trad
Welcome back!
1. 10" is too much. I don''t know what bow it is, but I'd venture to say to keep it around 7 1/2-8 inches.
2. I don't think those arrows will work well, be careful. They will more then likely be too stiff. Unless you are using a raised rest, you will need feathers.
3. Get the book "Become the Arrow" by Byron.
4. Sounds good!
5. I am usually aiming the during the whole shot process. So I am usually ready to release when I am at anchor. I may pause, but that is about it. If I hold too long the rythm of the shot is gone and things start to break down.
1. 10" is too much. I don''t know what bow it is, but I'd venture to say to keep it around 7 1/2-8 inches.
2. I don't think those arrows will work well, be careful. They will more then likely be too stiff. Unless you are using a raised rest, you will need feathers.
3. Get the book "Become the Arrow" by Byron.
4. Sounds good!
5. I am usually aiming the during the whole shot process. So I am usually ready to release when I am at anchor. I may pause, but that is about it. If I hold too long the rythm of the shot is gone and things start to break down.
02-08-2008, 02:45 PM
#3
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central Minnesota
Posts: 9,445
RE: New to Trad
ORIGINAL: BobCo19-65
Welcome back!
1. 10" is too much. I don''t know what bow it is, but I'd venture to say to keep it around 7 1/2-8 inches.
2. I don't think those arrows will work well, be careful. They will more then likely be too stiff. Unless you are using a raised rest, you will need feathers.
3. Get the book "Become the Arrow" by Byron.
4. Sounds good!
5. I am usually aiming the during the whole shot process. So I am usually ready to release when I am at anchor. I may pause, but that is about it. If I hold too long the rythm of the shot is gone and things start to break down.
Welcome back!
1. 10" is too much. I don''t know what bow it is, but I'd venture to say to keep it around 7 1/2-8 inches.
2. I don't think those arrows will work well, be careful. They will more then likely be too stiff. Unless you are using a raised rest, you will need feathers.
3. Get the book "Become the Arrow" by Byron.
4. Sounds good!
5. I am usually aiming the during the whole shot process. So I am usually ready to release when I am at anchor. I may pause, but that is about it. If I hold too long the rythm of the shot is gone and things start to break down.
02-09-2008, 06:09 AM
#5
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: New to Trad
There should be some markings on the bow, usually on the grip but sometimes on the base of the limb that will give you the bow's length and draw weight. Usually look something like:
60" AMO
45#@28"
In this case, the bow takes a 60" AMO string and draws 45 pounds at 28". If you don't have those markings, then you have to do it the hard way.
Lay the bow down with the tips of the recurves pointing up. Take a cloth tape and measure along the surface of the limbs from one string nock to the other. Be sure to measure by following the contours of the limbs/riser! The straight line distance from tip to tip doesn't do you any good at all, unless you're looking to buy a bow case.
Anyway, once you get that measurement along the back of the bow, then you subtract 4" from that number to find out what length string you need.
Most modern day recurves are made to use fastflight or similar strings. Older bows, and even some of today's bows, should only be used withB-50 or B-500 dacron strings. Putting a fastflight string on a bow that's notdesigned for itis running a high risk of destroying the bow so, if in doubt, go with B-50 or B-500.
60" AMO
45#@28"
In this case, the bow takes a 60" AMO string and draws 45 pounds at 28". If you don't have those markings, then you have to do it the hard way.
Lay the bow down with the tips of the recurves pointing up. Take a cloth tape and measure along the surface of the limbs from one string nock to the other. Be sure to measure by following the contours of the limbs/riser! The straight line distance from tip to tip doesn't do you any good at all, unless you're looking to buy a bow case.
Anyway, once you get that measurement along the back of the bow, then you subtract 4" from that number to find out what length string you need.
Most modern day recurves are made to use fastflight or similar strings. Older bows, and even some of today's bows, should only be used withB-50 or B-500 dacron strings. Putting a fastflight string on a bow that's notdesigned for itis running a high risk of destroying the bow so, if in doubt, go with B-50 or B-500.
02-10-2008, 11:52 AM
#6
Fork Horn
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Kansas
Posts: 119
RE: New to Trad
waiting, you did the right thing by coming here and asking your ?. these guys and gals on here know thier stuff. i hope they have helped you as much as they have helped me, which is more than anyone else has that i know in person. i hope you get shooting well and have fun.
02-11-2008, 07:16 AM
#7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: WI
Posts: 338
RE: New to Trad
Thanks all, it looks like I will have to take a look at my setup. I probably don't have the appropriate string. I did string up over the weekend, and drew the bow a few times, it really feels different. I want to be able to lock my bow arm out, and can't. I haven't shot yet, because it's so "arctic" here. I am going to seek out a shop that has someone who knows about recurves, get set up decent before I start shooting. This is going to be hard enough as it is without starting off with a bum setup.
02-11-2008, 08:00 PM
#8
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,193
RE: New to Trad
Killed a few deer myself with flint heads and osage...have fun.....here are my opinions....
1. I’ve already purchased a string, but I am afraid it is not an appropriate one. I would estimate the brace height with this string to be over 10”. How would I go about determining the correct brace height / string length? Find the right oneon the internet...look around
2. I have low end carbon arrows with vanes. Do you think they’d be worth a try with the recurve? I have my compound set around 55 lbs or less. Naaa....Get yourself some good cedar....give your recurve what it really wants.
3. Any advice about setting up the bow, arrows, etc. would be appreciated. I intend to shoot bare bow / instinctive, no sights. Ask someone on the web about shaft diameterof cedar based on your setup
4. I am committed to sticking with my 145 gr. screw in bear razorheads. I have a good supply of them, and they’ve worked really well for me. Good Heads...Hold them tight...they are legends...
5. Do you hold your draw for any length of time, or pretty much release the instant you hit your anchor point?Release +1 or -1 second at anchor....roll your fingers and use just the tips of your fingers to avoid plucking....Aim small...pick a hair out of that target..
6. The reason I'm doing this is that a very high percentage (almost all) of my bow kills are inside of 20 yards, and I figure this will simplify and maybe even improve the shot process. I have shot 5 feet over a deers back at 9 yards with my stick bow...and double lunged a squirrel in the same night at 20 yards....Aim small and focus on the smallest spot...get in the zone with your eye and picture the arrow hitting that very small spot...GOOD LUCK!!
1. I’ve already purchased a string, but I am afraid it is not an appropriate one. I would estimate the brace height with this string to be over 10”. How would I go about determining the correct brace height / string length? Find the right oneon the internet...look around
2. I have low end carbon arrows with vanes. Do you think they’d be worth a try with the recurve? I have my compound set around 55 lbs or less. Naaa....Get yourself some good cedar....give your recurve what it really wants.
3. Any advice about setting up the bow, arrows, etc. would be appreciated. I intend to shoot bare bow / instinctive, no sights. Ask someone on the web about shaft diameterof cedar based on your setup
4. I am committed to sticking with my 145 gr. screw in bear razorheads. I have a good supply of them, and they’ve worked really well for me. Good Heads...Hold them tight...they are legends...
5. Do you hold your draw for any length of time, or pretty much release the instant you hit your anchor point?Release +1 or -1 second at anchor....roll your fingers and use just the tips of your fingers to avoid plucking....Aim small...pick a hair out of that target..
6. The reason I'm doing this is that a very high percentage (almost all) of my bow kills are inside of 20 yards, and I figure this will simplify and maybe even improve the shot process. I have shot 5 feet over a deers back at 9 yards with my stick bow...and double lunged a squirrel in the same night at 20 yards....Aim small and focus on the smallest spot...get in the zone with your eye and picture the arrow hitting that very small spot...GOOD LUCK!!
