Rangeball

Does a long bow put the arrow shaft much closer to one's hand than a recurve?

Arthur P

Usually a longbow's shelf is cut lower and closer to the hand. But not always.

Rangeball

I'd really like to get to a point just under at 20ish yards full draw site pic. With the Martin X200 that I'm currently shooting, my options seem to be only much longer arrows (new expense I don't really want to incur) or much heavier arrows, and I'm already shooting a tad over 12 grains per pound.

How are self or board bows in this regard?

Arthur P

You don't even have to put a shelf on a selfbow unless you just want one. I usually don't bother. But I really don't like feather cuts either and no matter what you do, you're eventually gonna get feather cuts if you shoot directly off your knuckle. So, I use theFerret's floppy arrarest on my self/board bows.



Mickey's got a lot of good stuff on his site: http://groups.msn.com/ferretsarcherywebpage

Also, a selfbow/board bow won't usually shoot as fast, pound for pound, as a laminated glass/wood bow, so that'll bring down your point of impact closer to your point of sight.

Another option is to go 3-under and play around with how you anchor. The closer you get the arrow's nock under your eye, the closer your point-on distance will be. You can actually change anchors, and change between 3-under and split finger,to shoot point on at different distances.

Changing anchor locations isan old barebow system called 'face walking'. Changing the string grip is part of another system called 'string walking.' Both are illegal for traditional tournaments. String walking is not so good for hunting because it takes so much time to figure out where to locate your fingers for the draw and shot.Face walking is a pretty good system though.

Rangeball

I've played around with 3 under, just can't get comfortable with it. I've also tried anchoring with my index, middle and ring finger on my tooth but it feels really funky. Middle finger just feels natural.

I really want to make a board bow this winter. Instead of the ferret floppy, I've been playing around with the idea of mounting a hardwood dowel, maybe 3/8"ish as a shelf. Think it would work?

Arthur P

Yeah, it'd work. But the arrow willstill riding 3/8" over your hand. I'd be more inclined to go 1/4"ish. Get the arrow down closer. Besides, the less wood you disturb in the grip area, the better off you are.

Drill a little hole in there and make a rest by gluing in a finishing nail, for that matter.[&:]

Rangeball

I like the nail idea

With this approach are feather cuts still an issue assuming one wears a glove on their bow hand?

I've been shooting with a thin slick fabric glove. Let's the bow settle in where it wants while drawing, the I gently close my hand when I'm at full draw.

Arthur P

The glove will protect your hand. Just make sure the leading ends of your feathers are tacked down good.

By the way, this is where the 'right handed shooters need left wing feathers' deal comes from. When you're shooting off your knuckle. Left wing takes the leading end of the bottom hen feather off your hand. Right wing runs that leading end right over your hand.