You guys are the masters at this stuff and I am pretty much clueless but I want to learn. So I have a chec-mate falcon 60#@28 I want to shoot wood arrows but I need to know what I need to make them. Shafts, size, they will be used to hunt elk and deer. also What fletching jig ,taper tool do you all recommend and feathers? please help. Also I have a 70#@28 kodiak can I use the same shafts? I draw 28" to so it should be the same lenght I think? it would be nice if I could mat up a couple dozen to have around. Basically everything I need to make nice durable arrows that shoot good. Thanks for the help guys. Cheers Rich

Rich, my Kings Pawn - basically a long version of your Falcon - is very tolerant of arrow spines. It's possible it would shoot okay with arrows spined for that 70 pound Kodiak. That would be worth a try. 10 pounds though.... That's an awfullywide gapto try and bridge with one arrow shaft.

I would definitely NOT try to shoot the Kodiak with arrows spined for the 60 pound Falcon. I don't see any way for that to work at all. I think it's likely you'll wind up having to use different arrows for each bow, but you'll never know until you try.

I'd recommend23/64" shafts for a little more arrow weight, especially for that Kodiak.

As far as tools go: I've fletched an untold number of arrows on a JoJan fletcher over the years. Got a Bitzenberger a few years ago and sold that JoJan though. I love my Bitz! The best tapering tool there is is the Woodchucker grinder. If you've got a disc sander, you can make ataperingjig for it.Best hand held pencil sharperner-style tapering toolis the Tru-center.

You can go whole hog and buy dip tubes and a cresting machine, but it's not necessary. I've made literally thousands of arrows and never dipped an arrow in my life. The finish on my arrows has always been wiped on or sprayed on. Used to use varnish until they came out with polyurethane.

Feathers are pretty much personal preference. I like Truflight best because they are more consistent with the grind on their bases, but I also use Gateway. It really and truly doesn't really make much differene.

It's possible the Bear and Falcon will shoot the same arrows, especially if the Bear isn't cut past center and has a dacron string--but you will have to shoot and see to find out.

Shaft type--personal preferance. I like POC, but you have gobs of different woods to choose from. The hardwoods are heavier, but require a little more work to straighten and keep straight. Don't skimp on shafting, at least unless you can check it out first. It's rare to find good wood shafting at a bargain. Usually the cheap ones are good for tomato stakes, and not much else.

Size/spine depends on what works best. Some dealers will offer a test kit with a few each of several different spines--shoot them and see which one flies best.

The BPE Pro is a good fletching jig, and the Jo-Jan Mono-fletcher, but the very best (IMO) is the Bitzenburger. If you use fletching tape or super glue (or have plenty of time and patience), one jig is plenty.

The Woodchuck, or a homemade version of one, is the best taper tool, but unless you plan on making a lot of arrows you may not want to invest that much. I've used 2 or 3 different Tru-Center taper tools (not exactly cheap either), and I have problems with every one of them. Could have been me or the shafts I was using, I don't know, but I do know they aren't worth $27plus shipping to me. I did just as well with the pencil trimmer types, until I got a Woodchuck.

The same feathers you use on aluminum or carbon work on wood. I shoot 5" myself, both left and right wing (just not on the same arrow). I prefer Trueflight, but Gateway works also.

For the finish, I really like the epoxy forumula I've talked about before. It's cheap and easy to use, and everything you need can be picked up at Wal-Mart or a hardware store. You don't have to cap or crest or stain unless you just want to--the arrows will fly just as good. If you get into it enough to want a crester, I really like my Arrow Specialties. If you go with a Bohnning, get the Jr.--the only difference in the Jr. and the Pro (other than the price) is a drip tray that you don't need to begin with. If you are really serious about it, go ahead and save up a few more bucks and get the Arrow Specialties. With the epoxy finish, you can get your cresting and cap paints at most any store also.

I've tried poly, and my arrows always stuck in the targets--literally. The friction caused the poly to melt, and welded my arrows in--talk about a devil to pull! I think there is a kind that won't do this, but you have to know the difference and get the right one (obviously I don't know which is which).

Good luck!

Chad

The one thing about the TruCenter tool is it's a pain to get the angles on the blades adjusted properly. Took a lot of foul language before I ever got it right.[&:]

Chad, if you ever get any poly coated arrows again, here's what to do. Go down to the auto store and buy a can of Kit paste wax. Wax the first 10-12" of each shaft. The wax will keep them from sticking. That trick workswell on any arrow type or finish where you're having problems with them sticking in the target. Naturally you have to reapply the wax about every other time you go shootin'.

I've not had much problem with that when using Minwax Spar Urethane.

I think the blade angle was my main malfunction--I tried new blades, and tried calling the tool everything I could think of (which was quite a bit--I was in the Army and was married) and I couldn't get it right.

I take a bar of soap with me when I shoot now. The epoxy finish doesn't burn, but the soap still makes pulling arrows a lot easier, especially with McKenzies.

Chad