It's possible the Bear and Falcon will shoot the same arrows, especially if the Bear isn't cut past center and has a dacron string--but you will have to shoot and see to find out.

Shaft type--personal preferance. I like POC, but you have gobs of different woods to choose from. The hardwoods are heavier, but require a little more work to straighten and keep straight. Don't skimp on shafting, at least unless you can check it out first. It's rare to find good wood shafting at a bargain. Usually the cheap ones are good for tomato stakes, and not much else.

Size/spine depends on what works best. Some dealers will offer a test kit with a few each of several different spines--shoot them and see which one flies best.

The BPE Pro is a good fletching jig, and the Jo-Jan Mono-fletcher, but the very best (IMO) is the Bitzenburger. If you use fletching tape or super glue (or have plenty of time and patience), one jig is plenty.

The Woodchuck, or a homemade version of one, is the best taper tool, but unless you plan on making a lot of arrows you may not want to invest that much. I've used 2 or 3 different Tru-Center taper tools (not exactly cheap either), and I have problems with every one of them. Could have been me or the shafts I was using, I don't know, but I do know they aren't worth $27plus shipping to me. I did just as well with the pencil trimmer types, until I got a Woodchuck.

The same feathers you use on aluminum or carbon work on wood. I shoot 5" myself, both left and right wing (just not on the same arrow). I prefer Trueflight, but Gateway works also.

For the finish, I really like the epoxy forumula I've talked about before. It's cheap and easy to use, and everything you need can be picked up at Wal-Mart or a hardware store. You don't have to cap or crest or stain unless you just want to--the arrows will fly just as good. If you get into it enough to want a crester, I really like my Arrow Specialties. If you go with a Bohnning, get the Jr.--the only difference in the Jr. and the Pro (other than the price) is a drip tray that you don't need to begin with. If you are really serious about it, go ahead and save up a few more bucks and get the Arrow Specialties. With the epoxy finish, you can get your cresting and cap paints at most any store also.

I've tried poly, and my arrows always stuck in the targets--literally. The friction caused the poly to melt, and welded my arrows in--talk about a devil to pull! I think there is a kind that won't do this, but you have to know the difference and get the right one (obviously I don't know which is which).

Good luck!

Chad