Any opinions on a hunting arrow for a 1960's era red wing hunter? The bow is 58" 51 lbs @ 28 . I draw about 28.75.

I'd say to use 11/32" woodies in 55-60 spine, or try some 2016's in aluminum. One other arrow I'd try would be 4560 Carbon Express Terminator Selects. All cut to 29 1/2".

Thanks for the help ArthurP. The woodies sound tempting . What do you use to cut wooden arrows to length and to glue on the tips? I've been tempted to try some but kinda wonder how they would hold up to the heat and humidity. Do you have any idea what a good total weight would be?

I don't have to cut wood arrows. I use full length shafts and have a hard time finding them long enough.[&:] If I were to cut woodies though, I'd use a coping saw or hack saw, saw down less than half way, turn the shaft and saw down less than halfway, turn the shaft and... well you get the idea. You want to go all around the shaft, leaving a little pin in the middle. Then just snap off the excess. If you try to saw all the way through, you'll usually wind up splintering the shaft.

I've been using the Tru-Center tapering tool for years to cut the point and nock tapers on my arrows. It's a whole lot better than the plastic ones. Even then, when the blades get dull it doesn't do so hot. After watching a guy using a Woodchuck tapering machine though, I'm going to make a jig to fit on my new disc sander so I can grind the tapers instead.

If you seal the woodies well, the heat and humidity won't affect them that much. The main thing to keep in mind is to straighten each shaft before each operation when making them, especially before cutting the tapers. If you taper a crooked arrow and then straighten it, you'll have a straight arrow with crooked tapers and it won't shoot worth a flip.

I'll let you in on an old trick about wood arrows. When fletching woodies, it's best to have the grain runout, or feathers, pointing forward along the TOP of the shaft.

Think about it. When a wood arrow breaks, the break almost always follows the grain. Having the 'feathers' facing forward on the BOTTOM of the arrow, it will likely force the back end of the shaft DOWN. If that arrow breaks during the shot, the back of the arrow will be heading straight for your wrist and forearm and you'll have to be lucky to keep from having to make a trip to the emergency room. With the 'feathers' pointing forward along the TOP of the shaft, the back end of the shaft will usually go UP, away from your arm.

It won't make any difference in how the arrow shoots, whether the grain runout is facing forward on top or bottom, but I think safety first and any little thing that'll improve my odds against shedding blood is a good thing.

As to weight, you won't have to worry about it. I'd say you'd do fine with anything weighing between 450-650 grains. Cedar, aluminum or carbon/glass composite arrows will be right in there.