A few questions
#1
A few questions
First of all has anyone shoot Grizstiks before?
Are they durable?
How do they fly?
Have you shot any game with them?
Are they as good as they say they are?
Would you use them on targests?
They say that the Alaskan 630gr. will work in bows fro 50 to 100 (who and the h--- can shot a 100 lb bow) Is this a over statment or dose it hold true.
Has anyone ever used maple arrows?
How many grains would the avarage?
What is a good total grains for me. I read an article that stated the heavyer the better. I hunt white tails in pritty thick cuver. My bow is #60 at about 28 I wont be shooting much over 20 (20yds, I consider far even with a compound).
What are some other types of wood that can be used for arrows, I have a hole yard full of trees: birch, maple, oak, cedar, and i think there is some ash but not for sure.
I just ordered the first volum of The Bowyers Bible and was wondering what it covered, will it have anything on arrow making.
Are they durable?
How do they fly?
Have you shot any game with them?
Are they as good as they say they are?
Would you use them on targests?
They say that the Alaskan 630gr. will work in bows fro 50 to 100 (who and the h--- can shot a 100 lb bow) Is this a over statment or dose it hold true.
Has anyone ever used maple arrows?
How many grains would the avarage?
What is a good total grains for me. I read an article that stated the heavyer the better. I hunt white tails in pritty thick cuver. My bow is #60 at about 28 I wont be shooting much over 20 (20yds, I consider far even with a compound).
What are some other types of wood that can be used for arrows, I have a hole yard full of trees: birch, maple, oak, cedar, and i think there is some ash but not for sure.
I just ordered the first volum of The Bowyers Bible and was wondering what it covered, will it have anything on arrow making.
#2
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Mississippi USA
Posts: 15,296
RE: A few questions
I've shot them a few times, but they belonged to a friend. They flew like darts from his bow, and mine. I'm pulling [email protected], don't remember what his bow was but I think it was very close to the same poundage.
They seem to be very durable, but I have never found an arrow shaft I can't break (or loose).
Advertisements are just that. They may be that good for some folks, maybe not for others.
I can shoot a 100# bow, but I haven't tried the Grizzly sticks from it (I have a flatbow I'm pulling approximately 120# on, but I seldom shoot it--I like my shoulder and want to keep it). That does sound like a stretch, but I haven't tried it so I can't say. I'd think they are very adjustable with the weighting system, but I don't know about a 50# range.
I've shot maple, but it was several years ago. I don't remember what they averaged, but they were heavy. The ones I got must have been duds, because they broke easier than POC. I've heard they are very durable, but mine weren't.
I like 8-10 grains per lb of draw weight. I've heard of folks shooting 12-14 grains, but I don't really see the point in it, especially with whitetail and a 60# bow. Pulling 60#, you would most likely punch through one like a paper sack with a 300 grain arrow at 20 yds.
There's lots of woods that can be used for arrows--I've shot ash, maple, hickory, sitka spruce, chundoo/lodgepole pine, Norwegian pine, douglas fir, Port Orford Cedar, and probably a few I can't remember. I've also shot laminated shafts. I've always gone back to Port Orford Cedar. I don't think red cedar will make a decent arrow. Lots of primitive archers use river cane and rose shoots. If you want to take the time to make them, river cane seems to make a good durable arrow.
I believe it's TBB Volume II that has the most information on arrows--I have all three, but haven't read them in a long time. Think I'll break them out again.
Chad
They seem to be very durable, but I have never found an arrow shaft I can't break (or loose).
Advertisements are just that. They may be that good for some folks, maybe not for others.
I can shoot a 100# bow, but I haven't tried the Grizzly sticks from it (I have a flatbow I'm pulling approximately 120# on, but I seldom shoot it--I like my shoulder and want to keep it). That does sound like a stretch, but I haven't tried it so I can't say. I'd think they are very adjustable with the weighting system, but I don't know about a 50# range.
I've shot maple, but it was several years ago. I don't remember what they averaged, but they were heavy. The ones I got must have been duds, because they broke easier than POC. I've heard they are very durable, but mine weren't.
I like 8-10 grains per lb of draw weight. I've heard of folks shooting 12-14 grains, but I don't really see the point in it, especially with whitetail and a 60# bow. Pulling 60#, you would most likely punch through one like a paper sack with a 300 grain arrow at 20 yds.
There's lots of woods that can be used for arrows--I've shot ash, maple, hickory, sitka spruce, chundoo/lodgepole pine, Norwegian pine, douglas fir, Port Orford Cedar, and probably a few I can't remember. I've also shot laminated shafts. I've always gone back to Port Orford Cedar. I don't think red cedar will make a decent arrow. Lots of primitive archers use river cane and rose shoots. If you want to take the time to make them, river cane seems to make a good durable arrow.
I believe it's TBB Volume II that has the most information on arrows--I have all three, but haven't read them in a long time. Think I'll break them out again.
Chad
#3
RE: A few questions
Thanks LBR, I didnt order the Grizstics, to much money for six arrows. I could lose that many in 1 day . In sted i ordered Eastons and a Bitzen vise left helical clamp. Once I get my shooting dieled in I hope to start shooting wood, I havent had much time to shoot, been working lots of side jobs and after a 12hr shift of painting my arms are not up to shooting any sticks. Hoping to get out on a 3d course and realy lose some arrows.