I borrowed a PSE Inferno w/ Maxis cams for the upcoming bow season(since all of my gear was stolen last Oct), and just can't seem to get the cams to rotate the same. At full draw the top cam is rotating to just past 2 o'clock, and the bottom cam is hitting the wall somewhere around 6 o'clock. His previous timing marks also show the top cam is over-rotated slightly. The owner made the string and cables a while back, and has put several shots through it, but it is obviously not right. We tried to adjust the cable lenth, but it didn't seem to improve anything. We put about 6 twists in the cable to get the draw length right, then we twisted the bottom harness 5 or 6 times, but it didn't seem to affect top cam rotation. I paper tested it tonight and got a 1" tail high tear. Are we going about this wrong? I'll take it to the shop if need be, but I'd like to work it out on my own if possible. The bow specs say it has a 30" draw and mine is ~28.5", so I know that is pushing it to get it to fit me. It currently does, but obviously we have a problem. Should we make a slightly shorter cable to see how that affects things? Any guidance would be appreciated.

a 1 1/2 in draw length change is a awful lot if the bow is not draw length adj.you may have to change cams.buy shortening it that much your brace height and a/a will be well off and will effect the effiencey of the bow itself.if its draw length adj just make sure the string and cable are the correct length and reinstall.that should get your cams back pretty close to time i would imagine.if its not close take it to the shop and see if they can help you out.

Shorten (by adding twist) the cable that is attached to the cam that hits the wall first or remove some twist from the other cable.

Try "Creep Tuning" the bow:
"Creep Tune procedure:
1. Set the timing as close as you can by eye (you don't have put a micrometer on it; just get as close as you can)
2. Sight your bow in at twenty yards.
3. Put a piece of masking tape on your target butt horizontally. In a pinch, you can use the top edge of a target face.
4. Pull your bow into the wall as hard as you can and shoot arrow #1 at the tape.
On the next shot, creep forward to the front of the valley and shoot arrow #2 at the tape. You make need to re-shoot these shots a couple of times to rule out bad shots.
5. If your bow is in perfect time, both arrows will hit the tape or they will land on the same horizontal plane. (Level with the tape or on the tape)
If the "creep" shot hits HIGH, TIGHTEN or SHORTEN the cable that connects to the BOTTOM cam. If the "creep" shot hits LOW, TIGHTEN or SHORTEN the cable that connects to the TOP cam.
Make very small, one or two turn, adjustments a time. A little twist goes a long way. You can fine-tune your timing by repeating the test at forty yards. If you make an adjustment at this distance do not turn your cable more that a half a turn at a time. Too much adjustment at this distance can send an arrow over the target butt or in the dirt. When you have completed the test, your bow will be in perfect time, and given that your other accessories are adjusted properly, your bow is as accurate as it can possibly be.
[This message has been edited by GDRyals (edited 12-28-2001).]"
Hope this helps. Be safe.
Shoot Straight
Derbytown