Another "Help the dumb guy"
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Detroit
Posts: 858
Another "Help the dumb guy"
What effect does arrow length have in relation to accuracy. I've heard overdraws and shorter arrows are a little touchier to shoot but still can't understand why?? Pointed straight is pointed straight no?
#2
RE: Another "Help the dumb guy"
An overdraw mones the "pivot point" further back towards your hands which mulitplies any torque that you induce on the bow. If you have good form and a torque free grip, then you shouldn't have any problems. In essence it creates an artificial shorter brace height.
#3
Typical Buck
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Greenfield, IN
Posts: 953
RE: Another "Help the dumb guy"
Overdraw severely magnifies any movement/torque you have in your wrist. These were very popular in the late 80s-90s when aluminum arrows were your only choice to get the weight down/speed up. I used to shoot an 80# PSE Carroll Intruder w/ an overdraw and 26" 2213s w/ 7% nibbs and 3" feathers to get the arrows down to 5 gr/lb limit... That's what you had to do to have a "fast" bow (315 fps)... there were several people that would shoot way lighter than that before the 5gr/lb rule was implemented and enforced...
w/ the advent of the newer lighter carbon arrows.. you're able to shoot much lighter arrows that are still full length... so they've more or less made the overdraw obsolete.
w/ the advent of the newer lighter carbon arrows.. you're able to shoot much lighter arrows that are still full length... so they've more or less made the overdraw obsolete.
#4
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Illinois
Posts: 1,862
RE: Another "Help the dumb guy"
There are shooters who support that an overdraw w/shorter arrows shoot as well as a standard setup, and there are shooters who say that his or her accuracy went to pot. I used an overdraw for one year and ended up on the "pot" list.
For me, tuning was always routine and simple. However, I found that tuning with an overdraw was a bit more aggravating. When shooting the OD bow, I found my bow too sensitive to the slightest inexactness in form and/or release.
I also ditto "Mike from Texas" on the pivot point aspect. May not end up being scientifically factual, but the pivot point issue + torque is one I considered when I used an OD and shorter arrow.
For me, tuning was always routine and simple. However, I found that tuning with an overdraw was a bit more aggravating. When shooting the OD bow, I found my bow too sensitive to the slightest inexactness in form and/or release.
I also ditto "Mike from Texas" on the pivot point aspect. May not end up being scientifically factual, but the pivot point issue + torque is one I considered when I used an OD and shorter arrow.
#5
RE: Another "Help the dumb guy"
IME shorter arrows (regardless of overdraw use or not) are less stable. I don't shoot anything less than 28" these days even though on many modern bows and rests with my 29" draw length I could shoot 27" or shorter arrows.
As an example....lets consider a Javelin...
Would you rather have one that is 4 to 5 feet long or one about 2 feet long? (even if weight and velocity remained the same).
Which would be more stable when considering planing/drift, etc?
As an example....lets consider a Javelin...
Would you rather have one that is 4 to 5 feet long or one about 2 feet long? (even if weight and velocity remained the same).
Which would be more stable when considering planing/drift, etc?