And don't get too hung up on the idea that your filed points group well. Without the blades up front arrows can be grossly out of tune with the bow and still group. They can't windplane. Easton's Tunning and Maint. Guide is good advice.

When the shop tuned your bow, did you shoot it for them to tune, or did they just set the string/cables and off you go. It is impossible to tune a bow correctly without you shooting it.

It is also very easy to shoot good groups with field points, yet be all over the target with broadheads. You are getting close when you have good groups with both, but not at the same impact point.

also, new string/cables will settle in a bit when first put on the bow, the bow should be re-tuned after 100 shots.

Do yourself a favor, hang a piece of paper up and shoot through it, if you don't get a very small hole with 3 slices coming out of the center of the hole, then you are not tuned.

spin the arrows, its simple, put the BH on, stand it on the tip on a table and spin it fast, look for wobble in the point, the nock or in between.

--Bob

Bob H,

Thanks for the advice. I spent just a few minutes with the guy who strung my bow. The only thing we worked on was the sight. I'll pin him down a little harder tonight whe I'm back at the shop. I have already decided that I'll invest in some good arrows. I thought that carbon arrows were by design better than aluminium. Boy was I wrong!!!

I did download the Easton tuning guide...I think I'll have to read it a dozen times or so to get the full impact.

did you check and make sure you werent getting a little bit of fletching contact?