cutting carbon arrows
#2
a high speed cutoff wheel. I use a cabelas 8000rpm arrow cutter but you can use a dremel, just make sure it's a straight cut. Don't try to cut straight through. Cut just far enough in and then rotate the arrow for a flush cut. Use AAE fastset or another type of arrow glue for the insert. You can use super glue but I would suggest the gel, not liquid because it can dry too quickly. I've seen some use liquid super glue and it dried so fast they didn't get the insert in all the way, it was glued in with about a 1/4 inch hanging out of the arrow.
#5
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,834
That will work OK on aluminium, but not on carbon. It will cause the fibers to split and crack, leading to a split/damaged arrow.
#6
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 7,876
Judging by your second question your not to handy. If you were I'd say skip buying a designated saw that will just cut arrows and by something that is a multi use.
I'm a carpenter with many different saws and a good knowledge of blades and I use one of my miter saws with a fine toothed carbine tipped blade and a backer board that holds the arrow true and keeps the back of the arrow from any splintering (not needed but I do it just because that's always good). My saws are good enough to cut things way more difficult and expensive, they sure can cut an arrow. Just saying, buy something like that and use it for other things or sell it when your done.
Truthfully I don't think arrow saw are all that good of a saw and would never spend the money on one. A dremel will do it but I wouldn't use one of those either. When I do use one they create a lot of dust and carbon dust isn't good for you, beside you'd have to build a jig to cut them square. A pipe cutter I'd use if I was days away from civilization and needed an arrow to keep from starving. The wheel for starters is a wedge and a wall as thick as an arrow would be like cutting it with an axe.
The glue is per manufactures recommendations. On some I skip there talk and use super glue and quickly, don't try that with HIT insert. Not big on reading directions I take it.
I'm a carpenter with many different saws and a good knowledge of blades and I use one of my miter saws with a fine toothed carbine tipped blade and a backer board that holds the arrow true and keeps the back of the arrow from any splintering (not needed but I do it just because that's always good). My saws are good enough to cut things way more difficult and expensive, they sure can cut an arrow. Just saying, buy something like that and use it for other things or sell it when your done.
Truthfully I don't think arrow saw are all that good of a saw and would never spend the money on one. A dremel will do it but I wouldn't use one of those either. When I do use one they create a lot of dust and carbon dust isn't good for you, beside you'd have to build a jig to cut them square. A pipe cutter I'd use if I was days away from civilization and needed an arrow to keep from starving. The wheel for starters is a wedge and a wall as thick as an arrow would be like cutting it with an axe.
The glue is per manufactures recommendations. On some I skip there talk and use super glue and quickly, don't try that with HIT insert. Not big on reading directions I take it.
#7
You're very lucky you haven't had an arrow explode in your hand. NEVER cut an arrow with a pipe cutter! Ever!
#8
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,926
Passed on carbon arrows; once upon a time
I was nearly ready to move from aluminum to carbon. Except for one problem. I would have to give up my hand hack saw, inexpensive of course, for an electric archery saw, costing more than $100.
Of course, I stayed with aluminum or alloy as they are called now, and still have my hand hack saw. If I make the switch now, I'd still use an electric saw, but one from a building supply that can be used for other projects.
In fact, I still have a ceramic tile cutter, whose blade will make an excellent carbon arrow cutter.
But the aluminum arrows still shoot straight for me. The electric tile cutter blade is sitting ready in reserve. It's all paid for from household jobs; I'm cheap you know.
Of course, I stayed with aluminum or alloy as they are called now, and still have my hand hack saw. If I make the switch now, I'd still use an electric saw, but one from a building supply that can be used for other projects.
In fact, I still have a ceramic tile cutter, whose blade will make an excellent carbon arrow cutter.
But the aluminum arrows still shoot straight for me. The electric tile cutter blade is sitting ready in reserve. It's all paid for from household jobs; I'm cheap you know.
#10
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 7,876
I was nearly ready to move from aluminum to carbon. Except for one problem. I would have to give up my hand hack saw, inexpensive of course, for an electric archery saw, costing more than $100.
Of course, I stayed with aluminum or alloy as they are called now, and still have my hand hack saw. If I make the switch now, I'd still use an electric saw, but one from a building supply that can be used for other projects.
In fact, I still have a ceramic tile cutter, whose blade will make an excellent carbon arrow cutter.
But the aluminum arrows still shoot straight for me. The electric tile cutter blade is sitting ready in reserve. It's all paid for from household jobs; I'm cheap you know.
Of course, I stayed with aluminum or alloy as they are called now, and still have my hand hack saw. If I make the switch now, I'd still use an electric saw, but one from a building supply that can be used for other projects.
In fact, I still have a ceramic tile cutter, whose blade will make an excellent carbon arrow cutter.
But the aluminum arrows still shoot straight for me. The electric tile cutter blade is sitting ready in reserve. It's all paid for from household jobs; I'm cheap you know.