When you check your cam timming, useing the small holes in the cam, how " small" a change will you correct ?.My cam is under rotating by 3/16" .I lost 1 pound in DW,(71, from 72).Is it worth cranking the bow down to put a half or
maybe one twist in the cable, just so it will be " dead on" ?.The bow in question is an SQ2.

If the string is still stretching you might want to wait until it settles so you don' t have to adjust twice.jmo.

You may be surprised that it takes a couple twists to move your cam 3/8 of an inch . Mathews bows shoot best when they are " in time " . When they go out they get funky . Your best bet is to replace those junk string and cabel they put on their bows with a winners choice string and cabel and it will last you for a good while , not stretch , and you can use a true peep .

Are you referring to the new Zebra twist string as junk. Just wondering, what do you not like about it? I just bought a new LX.

Also, how do you check your timing. I have an LX as stated above and noticed my bow was funky yesterday, more than likey it is just me but maybe I can blame it on something else.

Thanks guys,
I will probably fix it.It sucks haveing to turn the limbs down 7 turns, evry time I need to put it in a press.As far as stretch goes, I believe the string is shot in by now,haveing a 1000 shots or more on it.
I think what happened is I might have taken 1 or 1 1/2 twist out of the bow string, by accedent.I was installing one of those super loops, which was a REAL pain in the a$$,,,I think it happened then.Thanks for the replies

Checking the timing on a Mathews bow is easy, just put a couple of small pins in the two small holes in your cam and lay a straight edge across them. Correct timing will have the straight edge parallel with the string. If it`s not then you will need a bow press to fix it. After checking the timing don`t forget to remove the two pins before drawing your bow[:' (]

You say you have to let off your poundage, you may allready know and im sounding stupid, but when you do the staging, your limbs have to be all the way on the bottom to get correct staging.

YUP, hunter9022, I did know that much, but thanks anyway.The way I check my timming is to tape thread just behind the first hole, split that hole, split the next hole,then run the thread all the way down over the idler wheel, then tape it off on the back side.
NEXT,I measure the distance from the string to the thread,just up from the end of the cam.Then I' ll measure it on the other end, the same distance from the limb tip.I think this an accurate way to do it.