setting knock point question?
10-28-2009, 07:23 AM
#1
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: ELK GROVE CA USA
Posts: 1,251
setting knock point question?
does it matter where in reference to the riser or the distance between the cams you should set your knock? Everything I have read only reference that it should be "X" distance above your rest?
If it does not matter, than what direction could I move the knock point to get my sight to move down. Right now my sight is almost maxed out all the way up and I think it would be in my best interest to get the sight moved down some, but I want to make sure that if I move the knock point down some (and the rest) that the sight will move down as well?
If it does not matter, than what direction could I move the knock point to get my sight to move down. Right now my sight is almost maxed out all the way up and I think it would be in my best interest to get the sight moved down some, but I want to make sure that if I move the knock point down some (and the rest) that the sight will move down as well?
10-28-2009, 08:05 AM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
With arrow rest as low as possible to the hand (with clearance for the vanes), you set your nock point accordingly to bareshaft tuning, BH tuning, or even paper tuning.
You can raise a rest up, way up and compensate with nocking point but at the expense of noise and poor flight.
Best scenerio is like a crossbow. where the nocking point is dead center between cams and pressure point on the prod is dead center. But because you have to hold a compound, or longbow, and the arrow can't go thru your hand, you have to compensate for this.
You can raise a rest up, way up and compensate with nocking point but at the expense of noise and poor flight.
Best scenerio is like a crossbow. where the nocking point is dead center between cams and pressure point on the prod is dead center. But because you have to hold a compound, or longbow, and the arrow can't go thru your hand, you have to compensate for this.
10-28-2009, 04:49 PM
#3
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Middletown PA United States
Posts: 3,625
You should mount a rest so that with an arrow nocked onto the string at 90 degrees to the string the arrow approximately bisects the rest mounting hole(s).
Whereas the bottom of the arrow sits on the rest the nocking point is located on top of the nock on the string. This is why you hear suggestions that the nocking point should be 1/8" or so above square. What you are doing is making the arrow perpendicular to the string.
This is a starting point for nock location. As you tune your bow you may have to move the nocking point up or down a little for best arrow flight.
NOW----here's the part that should answer your question. Once the bow is tuned you do not move the nocking point. This has nothing to do with how your sight is located on the bow.
In your case, the sight is high in the sight window (if I read your post right). This is because your anchor is too low. You can raise your anchor which will point the bow downward more and the sight will have to be moved down to compensate for it. In raising the anchor you will also have to lower your peep and kisser button.
In some cases, depending on the A2A of the bow and such you even may have to shorten the draw length of the bow some to get the proper results. I almost think this is part of your problem. So you may have to do all I mentioned to get the desired results.
Believe me, it's not the fault of the equipment but one of form.
Whereas the bottom of the arrow sits on the rest the nocking point is located on top of the nock on the string. This is why you hear suggestions that the nocking point should be 1/8" or so above square. What you are doing is making the arrow perpendicular to the string.
This is a starting point for nock location. As you tune your bow you may have to move the nocking point up or down a little for best arrow flight.
NOW----here's the part that should answer your question. Once the bow is tuned you do not move the nocking point. This has nothing to do with how your sight is located on the bow.
In your case, the sight is high in the sight window (if I read your post right). This is because your anchor is too low. You can raise your anchor which will point the bow downward more and the sight will have to be moved down to compensate for it. In raising the anchor you will also have to lower your peep and kisser button.
In some cases, depending on the A2A of the bow and such you even may have to shorten the draw length of the bow some to get the proper results. I almost think this is part of your problem. So you may have to do all I mentioned to get the desired results.
Believe me, it's not the fault of the equipment but one of form.
10-29-2009, 07:02 AM
#4
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: ELK GROVE CA USA
Posts: 1,251
You should mount a rest so that with an arrow nocked onto the string at 90 degrees to the string the arrow approximately bisects the rest mounting hole(s).
Whereas the bottom of the arrow sits on the rest the nocking point is located on top of the nock on the string. This is why you hear suggestions that the nocking point should be 1/8" or so above square. What you are doing is making the arrow perpendicular to the string.
This is a starting point for nock location. As you tune your bow you may have to move the nocking point up or down a little for best arrow flight.
NOW----here's the part that should answer your question. Once the bow is tuned you do not move the nocking point. This has nothing to do with how your sight is located on the bow.
In your case, the sight is high in the sight window (if I read your post right). This is because your anchor is too low. You can raise your anchor which will point the bow downward more and the sight will have to be moved down to compensate for it. In raising the anchor you will also have to lower your peep and kisser button.
In some cases, depending on the A2A of the bow and such you even may have to shorten the draw length of the bow some to get the proper results. I almost think this is part of your problem. So you may have to do all I mentioned to get the desired results.
Believe me, it's not the fault of the equipment but one of form.
Whereas the bottom of the arrow sits on the rest the nocking point is located on top of the nock on the string. This is why you hear suggestions that the nocking point should be 1/8" or so above square. What you are doing is making the arrow perpendicular to the string.
This is a starting point for nock location. As you tune your bow you may have to move the nocking point up or down a little for best arrow flight.
NOW----here's the part that should answer your question. Once the bow is tuned you do not move the nocking point. This has nothing to do with how your sight is located on the bow.
In your case, the sight is high in the sight window (if I read your post right). This is because your anchor is too low. You can raise your anchor which will point the bow downward more and the sight will have to be moved down to compensate for it. In raising the anchor you will also have to lower your peep and kisser button.
In some cases, depending on the A2A of the bow and such you even may have to shorten the draw length of the bow some to get the proper results. I almost think this is part of your problem. So you may have to do all I mentioned to get the desired results.
Believe me, it's not the fault of the equipment but one of form.
I think I am going to have to remove all parts of the bow and start from scratch trying to get it dialed in correctly. For a while everything was fine, then I took it up to OR for an elk hunt and since then have been having some serious problems getting consistant with my bow. I have posted before opinions on lower my draw length and most said that I could, but I should be fine where I am at. Parker Extreme Hunter mag 68# 31". I don't slap my wrist and the form looks ok from what most have said. I posted pics before, I will see If I can find them.I will agree that my form is not the best, but I have seen much worse.
10-29-2009, 07:15 AM
#5
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Middletown PA United States
Posts: 3,625
Don't know who was helping you before and I couldn't find the pics, but here's a little something to contemplate. Are you really fitted right with a 31" draw? To shoot with decent form with a 31" draw you would have to have a wingspan of about 78". In many people wingspan is about their height (But not always) which means you would have to be about 6'6" tall.
You need to use the Wingspan method to see how close you are. There is a good "How To" on Huntersfriend.com on how to figure proper draw length.
You need to use the Wingspan method to see how close you are. There is a good "How To" on Huntersfriend.com on how to figure proper draw length.
10-29-2009, 07:30 AM
#6
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: ELK GROVE CA USA
Posts: 1,251
Don't know who was helping you before and I couldn't find the pics, but here's a little something to contemplate. Are you really fitted right with a 31" draw? To shoot with decent form with a 31" draw you would have to have a wingspan of about 78". In many people wingspan is about their height (But not always) which means you would have to be about 6'6" tall.
You need to use the Wingspan method to see how close you are. There is a good "How To" on Huntersfriend.com on how to figure proper draw length.
You need to use the Wingspan method to see how close you are. There is a good "How To" on Huntersfriend.com on how to figure proper draw length.
http://huntingnet.com/forum/technica...-too-long.html
it looks like you have suggested that I need to lower it 1.5". Since that last pic I had changed the loop and decreased it about .25" and then also shortened my release about .5" or a little more. I don't have an updated pic, but am considering lowering the module to 30". If I do, can I still shoot the 31" arrows, or do I need to have them re-cut? (the arrows now are the carbon terminator lites 55/70 - - and it could be considered underspined, but others have said it is probably border line ok/not ok)
