7MMXBOLT

First off, let me start by saying hello! I am brand new to the site and from what I know already about compound bows and the amount of extremely knowledgeable shooters hear, I can clearly see I have found the best the web has to offer when it comes to the quality of information available.

I have been absent from bows and bow hunting for about 10 years or so now and I can see that things have changed to some degree and technology is far more advanced than back when I was involved. So basically, I will need to re-learn a few things to get back up to speed.

Back when I was involved heavily, I was shooting a PSE Carroll Intruder & Alpine Grand Sierra Qualifier Series and participating in all the local IBO 3D shoots I could handle and had been doing it for about 5 years. So you can see it has been a while. I was however, doing most of my own tuning and have fairly good knowledge of the concepts but may be a bit rusty.

I am currently waiting on a new bow to come in. This bow will be set up for hunting & 3D shoots. It is the new for 09 Mathews Monster XLR8 with 70 lbs limbs. I ordered the G5 Optix XR2 (2 pin ) sight for it along with the Mathews Down Force arrow rest and a Fuse Axium 6" stabilizer. I have chosen ( with advise ) Carbon Express Maxima arrows applicable to the intended draw weight I intend to shoot (65lbs) & G5 Tekan 100 gr. broad heads. Along with this, I also purchased what is called Bow Force Mapping & Super Tuning. I currently use a caliper release and intend to use a D loop, which I have never used before.

The advice I am seeking is, provided I work on my form, just how good is the BFM & ST. I have provided links below from the shop I am doing my business with so you can see just what this all entails if you do not know already.

http://www.briansarchery.com/pages/s.../supertune.htm

http://www.briansarchery.com/pages/s...s/bowforce.htm

Based on what I do know already, I feel this will get me pretty close to where I should have to do next to nothing when it is all said and done in the tuning department. I do know that once the sight is set, any adjustments I make on my own will have an effect on the sight and will have to have it mapped again.

Sorry for such a long first thread and thanks for any information you can offer.

Bill

7MMXBOLT

I should probably also mention I have a 28" draw length. I also understand that this bow is IBO rated for 360+ fps. IBO rating being a 70 lbs limbs and a 30" draw "bare". After adding everything on the bow and deducting for draw length and reduced lbs I am being told that I could expect to see about 320 fps or somewhere there abouts. Any thoughts on that as well?

Bill

TFOX

I hope you are getting the Maxima 350's,the 250 most likely will be on the weak side for that bow.Although,they might work OK with the Tekans.


Good luck shooting a 5" brace bow after a long lay off.Definately not the best choice for someone just getting back into it imo.

Also,make sure you get some kind of string stop,that should help with wrist slap and clothing contact issues you might run in to.


I basically do everything you are getting done and I feel it is worth it.

BUT,when you get the bow,start shooting some groups and don't be afraid to make slight adjustment to the rest left and right to see if your groups get tighter.Of course do this after you are reaquainted with shooting and are getting back into form.Also do it a the farthest distance you are comfortable with.Just make sure to mark the setting of the rest before you start so you can go back to it if need be.


AND,I hope you are getting top notch strings and cables before you get any of this done.

7MMXBOLT

TFOX, The XLR8 comes standard with a string stop and the cable & string are Zebra/Barracuda. Not hip on what would be best but I am putting my trust in Mr. McPherson on that one. I will go with what is stock unless there is a problem. The Tech at the shop assured me they were very good. That was one of my first question I had for him. The grain weight is 350 on the Maxima's as that was the advice that was given.

I did have a chance to shoot one for a couple of days before I pulled the trigger and bought one and the brace height doesn't seem it will be a problem as my Alpine is the exact same height. I have been working on my form with the Alpine for about a month now but it took a few days to get to the point were it felt natural again. It was just a matter of retraining the mind so the body reacts with less effort. However, this new bow is a different animal all together.

There are two small problems I can think of and that is taken a shot at the distance this bow is capable of. With the equipment I was use to, 50 yards was my max effective range. I use to practice at 60 -70 yards so that the 50 yarder was almost a chip shot. This bow however is capable of much more so that will be a challenge at first that I'm sure I will over come in time. I like to practice! The other would be shooting a longer arrow than I am use to as I always used an overdraw on my other set ups and shot a 25" arrow. However, those are small problems and I hope there aren’t any others but time will tell.

The adjustment of the sight left & right was all that came to mind to me that would not have an effect on velocity and affect the settings of the sight as far as distance is concerned.

Thanks for the reply

Bill

Greg / MO

I was just getting ready to say this when I saw TFOX covered it for me...

SwampCollie

For the amount of money you are probably about to spend on this 'super tune' you'd better see that kinda speed. I understand you'll be shooting 65#s... but I'd expect you to be in the mid 320s anyway.... and possibly as high as 330 if all of the claims made by Brian's are true.

I've never heard of them, and I don't doubt them a bit.... but I know what a 28/70 Monster (not XLR8) shoots with a Maxima 3-D Select 350s (321fps set up to hunt....372gr arrow)..... with a straight up 7fps difference and a 5# difference... I'd expect them to be +/- 3fps of each other basic tuned out of the box (stock)..... if you don't see at least 325fps after a super tune... I'd say you bought a bag of rocks.... when you do the math... I actually got an extra 5-6 fps out of that bow than IBO advertised... I don't have that kind of equipment where I work.... just a calibrated eyeball, a fairly gifted shooter, an excellent mentor, and some patience. I measured and rechecked at brace and checked the creep tune. Fired for effect.. made adjustments... hit the chrony last.... boom... got a phone call from him this morning and he sent me three more customers today.

What kinda scratch (if you don't mind me asking) is this super tune setting/mapping business setting you back? I didn't see any kind of prices listed.... when I sell a bow... all the service is included..... I 'super tune' every bow I sell to the best of my ability.

7MMXBOLT

The Super tune comes with any new bow you buy but the BFM I think is $50 but if your buying a new bow you get a $25 discount on that. With everything I mentioned plus a Mathews 2 piece quiver, peep, D-loop, 10 hrs of range time, ballcap, & Monster shirt. This whole package $1,631. I left $1,500 on the counter and told them to call me when everything was in and we can set up a time for me to come down and spend the afternoon getting it set-up. As far as speed goes I think he was a little on the conservitive side so not to look like a he didn't know what he was talking about and if it turned out higher he would look like a hero. You know the game! The bow shoots faster than man told me so I leave the store smiling!


As far as the tuning goes this kinda stuff is all new to me and I was just real curious about the BFM and if this technology has been around a while to the general public and how accurate the results are. I guess I will find out soon enough. Everything should be in before the end of this coming week. I had put a lot of thought into buying a Hoyt, Bowtech or a PSE Xforce but got my hands on this one and liked it so I went with it. I think they call that impulse buying! Course it feels and shoots better than anything I had ever shot before so it wasn't a hard sell. Had it been one of the other I got to shoot I probably would have went with with one of them. I know they all are top notch bows. It's not like buying a car were you can test drive before you buy it unless you work in the industry. You know what I mean?


Thanks for the advice guys I appriciate it.

TFOX

Unless they have made some serious changes to the Zebra strings recently,they aren't all that great but maybe someone else can chime in on them.

I like to have my bow go through the Hooter Shooter.It saves me some time and headache.They can do things like align your cams at full draw so they don't have any lean and are actually matched to each other.They can also creep tune the bow which will make it much more forgiving to your draw pessure into the wall.


Are they tuning the arrows as well? That is where the money gets spent if someone knows what they are doing and willing to put in the time.


As far as the bow mapping,it is nothing more than running your numbers through a program to check efficiency,spine, and things of that nature.Many programs on the market today that give you that info fairly cheap.I have one myself and that is why I recommended the 350's.

bigbulls

To be completely honest... unless you absolutely insisted on the Monster XLR8 I can't believe that that shop sold you one after you not shooting for 10 years. It would have been the the second to last bow (the last being the PSE omen) I would recommend to someone in your situation. I would have made a strong argument to you to go with a drenalin in the Mathews brand.

As far as the super tuning thing goes... Remember that you aren't a hooter shooter. You are not going to hold a bow perfect like a hooter shooter will. You aren't going to trigger a release perfectly every time like a hooter shooter will. You will almost be guaranteed to have to make adjustments to the rest to accommodate your form.

Having said that, everything else that they are doing will definitely be worth it.

Why? Just make any minor adjustments to sight yourself.

Correct. The are still some of the worst factory strings to come on a bow. 7MM, you would be well served in getting yourself a high quality set of strings and cables. Vapor Trail, Winners Choice, Etc...

SwampCollie

BB you know well that barracudas are not the same as zebras.... and in my opinion, having used a pile of zebras on a pile of bows... you can do far far worse. At the risk of sound childish (forgive me).... I'd take them over a fuse string myself. Rock Solid has gone away from here, America's Best seems pretty decent, but I haven't been around enough of them to give a fair shake.

They are not winners choice strings by a long shot... but they have changed the zebras in the last three years, and all the mathews main line bows since the last year they made the FX (from the SB on) come stock with cudas.

BUT... to be fair here.... when the strings on my dren get replaced this spring.... she'll be wearing WC strings.... my other two bows.... a Hoyt and a High Country..... already are.