If you really would like to take a lot of the quess work out of it,you could purchase one of the archery programs like Archers Advantage or The Archery Program.

IMO they are well worth the money.The charts will get you close but these programs will get you right on the money the first time.You will know if you are slightly stiff or a little bit too light.


Post your info and I will check it for you.


Draw your bow and measure from the string to the burger button hole.
Measure the brace from the string to the same hole.
Check axle-axle.
Check exact poundage.
Check speed with chrono.
D-loop or off the string.Fingers or release.

Check the arrow length.Shaft only.No knock
Fletching length.
Point weight.(are you using screw in points?)
If you can check the arrow weight but it is not really necessary.

DeerT, I agree with c903 re: the bow tune or canting your bow. How long are your arrows? I would put 125 gr tips on & try those. If you don' t have a level on your bow or sight, you may want to install one. This will help prevent canting the bow.

c903, I agree the charts are too general. Hard cam, draw weight, arrow length? There' s alot more that goes into choosing the right arrow. I' ve gone through lots of arrows finding what shot best, for me. The proper blend of total weight and shooting characteristics take some work to arrive at satisfactorily. But experimentation is fun.[:@] Isn' t it?

CBM SC, I' d say you' re right re: DeerT' s arrow length. I just used 27" as that was the info provided. The 125 gr tip is a logical tuning direction.

Thanks for all the help guys.

CBM SC was right my arrows are 26"

I use a Scott release and a tropy ridge sight so I can check if I' m level when I shoot. I shoot off the string(don' t need any shorter draw length than I already have). Right now I' m using thunderhead 100' s but do have some 125' s

Thanks for the offer TFOX- I do have a dumb question. What is the burger button hole??
I will try to get the measurements this weekend. Thanks again for all the help.

Not sure what you mean , but a string loop won' t shorten your draw length .

Burger button - is the hole used to mount your sight to your riser .

CBM

If you don' t want to change your anchor point then your draw length will be shorter with a loop.At least I shoot a shorter draw with one and so do all the people that I know.More important to maintain your anchor than the draw length of the bow.


The measurement I need is to the hole in the riser that the rest mounts too.Or you can go to the grip but the measurement will most likely be the same either way.As long as the draw length and the brace heith is measured from the same point it really doesn' t matter.

I used the factory specs of the bow and it showed that you were slightly overspined but they were very acceptable.I prefer to have actuall numbers over factory specs because factory specs are not always right.

You may be a tad bit over spined but you can go with a 125 GR head and that ought to get you close to perfect.

I understand what your saying but I don' t see the point. If you decrease your draw length and add a loop , ending up with the same anchor point.......what has been lost ? Speed ??
You decrease your bows draw length a half inch = 5 fps , but you reduced the drag on the string by replacing heavier brass nocks or eliminator buttons with a lighter string loop.........so realistically you may have lost 1 fps maybe. What' s the difference ? I still don' t see where he' s losing anything !!

This is the one thing I really don' t see.I have never noticed a lost of speed more than 1-2 fps when using a loop over just drawing from the string at the same draw length.I do not use brass nocks either way.I tie all my nocks.

I agree with you that the speed will be minimal difference at best but when your very short to begin with it does seem to give you a bit more peace of mind.I believe you will see about a 7-8 fps difference when using a loop at a shorter draw or just drawing off the string at the longer draw but in the real world it doesn' t mean much.