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admiral timing?

Old 02-24-2009, 11:24 AM
  #1  
Spike
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Default admiral timing?

In my other post jeff suggested that I check the timing on my new admiral(crap THATS what I forgot to ask the guy at the shop)the book says that the down cable should be on a specific dot but doesnt say what one.
The guy at my shop wasnt sure, he is going to call bowtech,might be late this afternoon.
does any one knowwhat marks to use? also one cam isadvanced more than the other-is this normal?

thanks Mark
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Old 02-24-2009, 04:22 PM
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Default RE: admiral timing?

My Admiral shows 9 dots on the top cam and 7 on the bottom. The dots will be different due to the different cable angles from the roller guard. More dots on the top cable because the rollers are above the center of the grip.
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Old 02-25-2009, 05:06 AM
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Default RE: admiral timing?

Yes, it's completely normal for one cam to be more advanced than the other. As WWAG stated, the cable rolleris not in the center of the bow. Either is the point where your nocking point is. On a properly tuned bow, one cam has to be advanced slightly of the other.

These bows really need to be timed at full draw. Both module draw stops must hit the cables at the same time.
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:44 AM
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Default RE: admiral timing?

thanks for the input guys! I dont know if I should change any thing until I walk back and broad head tune.The first shot after installing the limbdriver it shot a perfect bullit hole in paper.I might make a draw board and check it but I dont think I will move anything just yet.
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Old 02-25-2009, 10:14 AM
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Default RE: admiral timing?

ORIGINAL: muzzyman88

Yes, it's completely normal for one cam to be more advanced than the other. As WWAG stated, the cable rolleris not in the center of the bow. Either is the point where your nocking point is. On a properly tuned bow, one cam has to be advanced slightly of the other.

These bows really need to be timed at full draw. Both module draw stops must hit the cables at the same time.
There are no stops on the Admiral/Captain series of CP cams. If you try to sync the cables with landmarks on the cams, you're not doing the bow justice because of that same roller guard. IMO, this cam system needs to ne sync'd at brace, it's the only time the cams have a common reference point and that is the string..
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Old 02-25-2009, 10:27 AM
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Default RE: admiral timing?

I just looked at it and it only has a stop on th top cam.
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Old 02-25-2009, 10:57 AM
  #7  
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Default RE: admiral timing?

Ah, my apologies guys. I didn't realized that! I have yet to buy a CP style bow. Now I'm curious.

WWAG, can you elaborate for me how you would set the synch on these bows now? I'm just not seeing how you can properly synchronize the cams to compenstate from not pulling from the center of the string at brace. Perhaps I'm missing something here.
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Old 02-25-2009, 11:24 AM
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Default RE: admiral timing?

ORIGINAL: pureadrenaline

thanks for the input guys! I dont know if I should change any thing until I walk back and broad head tune.The first shot after installing the limbdriver it shot a perfect bullit hole in paper.I might make a draw board and check it but I dont think I will move anything just yet.
Ain't no point at all in walkin back and broadhead tuning if you are just going to turn around and undo everything you've done. Might not change things much... but I'm sure you'll be better off getting the timing perfect first.
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Old 02-25-2009, 12:39 PM
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Default RE: admiral timing?

ORIGINAL: muzzyman88

Ah, my apologies guys. I didn't realized that! I have yet to buy a CP style bow. Now I'm curious.

WWAG, can you elaborate for me how you would set the synch on these bows now? I'm just not seeing how you can properly synchronize the cams to compenstate from not pulling from the center of the string at brace. Perhaps I'm missing something here.
With the Binary cam system, the cams are physically tied togther throughout the draw cycle. It dosen't matter where you pull the string from as both cams have no other option but to pay out equal lengths of string from brace. Sure you are pulling above center but all that means is that the top part of the string measures shorter than the bottom part of the string as measured from the last point of contact with the cam grooves. The cams are still in sync if they are sync'd at brace. Where we've normally thought that the cams were out of sync, as with your Allegiance at full draw, is where what is actually happening is that the cable angles going to the module stops are slightly different due to the cable rod/slide/roller guard. Now, if the designers would design a top module so to allow for the different cable angle than the bottom according to the cable rod/guide, the cams would be in synchronization throughout the draw cycle. We could also modify one of the module stops, to stop in unison with the other at full draw while the cams are sync'd at brace. If we did that, we would see consistent accuracy through variations of draw length (read creep tuning), we would see maxium speed (both cams working exactly together) and we would see the least vibration as both cams come to rest at the same instant (read lack of kick)
For the Admiral, I'd recommend to perfectly sync both cams to the exact same orientation at brace and at full draw, install a bottom draw stop post and adjust it to contact the cable at the same instant as the top draw stop post. This gets the cams starting out at the same instant and the stops stopping the draw at the exact same instant. With two stops you won't overdraw the single stop and "bend" that cable, slightly altering that cable length. With two stops on an Admral you would be doing the same thing as modifying one of the stops on an Allegiance cam system and having them both stop at the same time.
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Old 02-25-2009, 01:31 PM
  #10  
Spike
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Default RE: admiral timing?

thanks swamp,all I was getting at was I dont know ifI will change anything if everything else comes in good.right now it is shooting bullet holes, 400gr arrow is going out at280fps @ 65lb.(havent had time during the daylight to get outside and do the rest)
Im pretty new at this so I dont know if it shoots good groups at good speedsif really need to change the timing.this post actualy started as having to do with trying to make an already quiete bow quieter!
this is all great info that I need to know any way!with all that being said-If it is shooting good should I change the timing?and if I do how would I know that it is correct(with out the camirror)if it is normal to be different.

Mark
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