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admiral timing?

Old 02-25-2009, 03:58 PM
  #11  
 
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Default RE: admiral timing?

ORIGINAL: pureadrenaline

thanks swamp,all I was getting at was I dont know ifI will change anything if everything else comes in good.right now it is shooting bullet holes, 400gr arrow is going out at280fps @ 65lb.(havent had time during the daylight to get outside and do the rest)
Im pretty new at this so I dont know if it shoots good groups at good speedsif really need to change the timing.this post actualy started as having to do with trying to make an already quiete bow quieter!
this is all great info that I need to know any way!with all that being said-If it is shooting good should I change the timing?and if I do how would I know that it is correct(with out the camirror)if it is normal to be different.

Mark
Up until this point, it's common to be different or out of sync.. Shot my Admiral today with somegreat weather out to 40 yards and it's a great shooter and very quiet. This is the first I've shot it at farther than 20 yards sincegetting it in October and I look forward to lots of pre-turkey season practice
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:44 PM
  #12  
Nontypical Buck
 
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Default RE: admiral timing?

It is a certainty, a well tuned bows builds ones self confidence a whole lot. Russ I can imagine how them shafts are flying now that you have syncronized those cams. As well as the sweetened sound (no-sound) and smoothness of the bow.
Gosh I can only imagine .
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Old 02-26-2009, 04:38 AM
  #13  
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Default RE: admiral timing?

ORIGINAL: walks with a gimp

ORIGINAL: muzzyman88

Yes, it's completely normal for one cam to be more advanced than the other. As WWAG stated, the cable rolleris not in the center of the bow. Either is the point where your nocking point is. On a properly tuned bow, one cam has to be advanced slightly of the other.

These bows really need to be timed at full draw. Both module draw stops must hit the cables at the same time.
There are no stops on the Admiral/Captain series of CP cams. If you try to sync the cables with landmarks on the cams, you're not doing the bow justice because of that same roller guard. IMO, this cam system needs to ne sync'd at brace, it's the only time the cams have a common reference point and that is the string..
X2

That's where the Car Mirror will come in handy. It will allow finer adjustments because of the increased radius.

I can't wait to get mine!

Dan
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Old 02-26-2009, 05:58 AM
  #14  
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Default RE: admiral timing?

WWAG, thanks for the insight. So you're essentially super tuning these newer binaries the same way we are the old, just in a slightly different way, by adding a draw stop to the bottom cam to set the synch at full draw.
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Old 02-26-2009, 06:05 AM
  #15  
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Default RE: admiral timing?

ORIGINAL: muzzyman88

WWAG, thanks for the insight. So you're essentially super tuning these newer binaries the same way we are the old, just in a slightly different way, by adding a draw stop to the bottom cam to set the synch at full draw.
With the increased radius the Car Mirror allows a much more accurate setting. I will also play back and forth off the original settinga little to get the optimum cam rotation placement.

Add to this when you can Russ

Dan
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Old 02-27-2009, 08:41 AM
  #16  
 
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Default RE: admiral timing?

I ordered a sample set of the small parts for a run of 10 CaMirrors and they should be here soon. Dan, I don't think you will see any performance or accuracy increase by tweeking cable lengths as from perfectly balanced at brace. Once the cams are sync's at brace, they remain sync'd through the draw and shot cycle.
I worked with the shop owner yesterday on a 101st. and we concluded the same thing. Once set at brace with the CaMirror, the stops are so close to match at full draw,, and so close to having the draw stop post completely stopping on the limb, nothing more can be gained..
I asked Ross what he charged to sync the cams on a Binary the "old" way and he said about $12.00. He could use this tool with his press and get it done faster and without having to use his Hooter Shooter to check the module stops (read save time)

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Old 02-27-2009, 09:59 AM
  #17  
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Default RE: admiral timing?

Russ,

If you plan on selling the Ca Mirror, count me in.
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Old 02-27-2009, 11:09 AM
  #18  
 
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Default RE: admiral timing?

ORIGINAL: muzzyman88

Russ,

If you plan on selling the Ca Mirror, count me in.
Yep, they will be for saleThe best thing you could do once you sync the cams at brace would be to remove the module that hits the cable first and file off that dang stop,, it's in the wrong place!
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Old 02-28-2009, 10:13 AM
  #19  
 
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Default RE: admiral timing?

OK supertuners my novice brain cant quit wrap around all this ? my admiral has only one draw stop , correct ? and to get them perectly timed and KEEP them there i should add ont to the bottom ? mine reads almost identical on the timing marks at full draw ? is that wrong ? but i should get it timed from brace ? lots of info ! ive never felt any dumber ![:-]
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Old 02-28-2009, 10:41 AM
  #20  
 
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Default RE: admiral timing?

ORIGINAL: dave37

OK supertuners my novice brain cant quit wrap around all this ? my admiral has only one draw stop , correct ? and to get them perectly timed and KEEP them there i should add ont to the bottom ? mine reads almost identical on the timing marks at full draw ? is that wrong ? but i should get it timed from brace ? lots of info ! ive never felt any dumber ![:-]
My reply to Muzzy about filing off the draw stop was aimed at his owning an Allegiance with two stops.
In a perfect world, the Admiral would be synchronized perfectly at brace and there would be a draw stop post on the top and bottom cams and they would both be adjusted tomake contact with the cables at full draw at the same instant.
There are no stops on the modules on the Admiraland that's a good thing on this bow because of the short cable lengths and the roller guard. The longer the bow gets, the more forgiving the cable angles are in respect to the module stops (should your bow have them).. If all Binary cam bows with module stops were designed with the cables crossing in the exact center of the harness, wecould either sync at full draw or at brace with the CaMirror tool. Both methods would result in perfect sync throughout the draw cycle.
Until this tool came about, there was no way available to measure cam rotation, relative to the string which is the only common reference point on the bow. Mathews had the two holes that you aligned with a string to be parallel with the string to represent correct cam orientation. That's the only one I can think of that referenced the string. Everything else references the cables or the limbs that I know of and those methods have very short radius.
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