ORIGINAL: dave37
OK supertuners my novice brain cant quit wrap around all this ? my admiral has only one draw stop , correct ? and to get them perectly timed and KEEP them there i should add ont to the bottom ? mine reads almost identical on the timing marks at full draw ? is that wrong ? but i should get it timed from brace ?

lots of info !

ive never felt any dumber ![:-]
My reply to Muzzy about filing off the draw stop was aimed at his owning an Allegiance with two stops.
In a perfect world, the Admiral would be synchronized perfectly at brace and there would be a draw stop post on the top and bottom cams and they would both be adjusted tomake contact with the cables at full draw at the same instant.
There are no stops on the modules on the Admiraland that's a good thing on this bow because of the short cable lengths and the roller guard. The longer the bow gets, the more forgiving the cable angles are in respect to the module stops (should your bow have them).. If all Binary cam bows with module stops were designed with the cables crossing in the exact center of the harness, wecould either sync at full draw or at brace with the CaMirror tool. Both methods would result in perfect sync throughout the draw cycle.
Until this tool came about, there was no way available to measure cam rotation, relative to the string which is the only common reference point on the bow. Mathews had the two holes that you aligned with a string to be parallel with the string to represent correct cam orientation. That's the only one I can think of that referenced the string. Everything else references the cables or the limbs that I know of and those methods have very short radius.