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Limb Twisting

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Old 01-06-2009, 07:09 PM
  #1  
Nontypical Buck
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Default Limb Twisting

After about 3 weeks of shooting my new bow, I noticed I was shooting a few inches to the left, so I re-paper tuned my bow, and got it shooting straight again. I was confused by the problem, I checked my idler wheel and I had a substantial amount of lean. I realized that it wasn't my wheel, it was my limb. How much of a problem is this, should I get it fixed NOW, or can I wait till my season is over. Is this Martin Archery's problem, or should I send it to my pro shop.
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Old 01-07-2009, 11:12 AM
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Default RE: Limb Twisting

It's probably a matter of your cable system aging. You may just need to put a couple twists in the yoke to level it out.
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Old 01-07-2009, 11:42 AM
  #3  
bigcountry
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Default RE: Limb Twisting

Just twist up one side of the cable yoke, and your set. Its nice to have an laser alignment tool like from spot hogg for doing this. But you can eyeball to get close. A bow needs to be shot about 50-100 shots for the stings to stetch in.
 
Old 01-07-2009, 12:01 PM
  #4  
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Default RE: Limb Twisting

I'd start by doing what bigcountry said and twist or untwist one side of the yoke cable to get it squared up again. I'm not familiar with Martin's strings but some manufacturers have a free floating yoke cable that helps compensate for this sort of thing.

One issue that arises when you twist or untwist yokes is that you'll never get it correct undrawn and drawn. If you get it squared while the bow is at full draw, it won't be square when you let down on the bow, or vise versa.
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Old 01-07-2009, 12:13 PM
  #5  
bigcountry
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Default RE: Limb Twisting

ORIGINAL: muzzyman88

I'd start by doing what bigcountry said and twist or untwist one side of the yoke cable to get it squared up again. I'm not familiar with Martin's strings but some manufacturers have a free floating yoke cable that helps compensate for this sort of thing.

One issue that arises when you twist or untwist yokes is that you'll never get it correct undrawn and drawn. If you get it squared while the bow is at full draw, it won't be square when you let down on the bow, or vise versa.
Sometimes, you can get the idler perfect. Depends on the limbs and cam design. All my older bows that were 40" or longer, with dual cable and split buss cables, I could. I am finding newer shorter bows are more difficult.

Spot hogg recommends you split the difference on the idler wheel.
 
Old 01-07-2009, 12:42 PM
  #6  
Fork Horn
 
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Default RE: Limb Twisting

Just a trick I have learned: Lay so the string is facing you -- make sure he bow is level. take an arrow and lay it against your wheel/cam. It should run pretty darn close to parralel to the string. If the arrow is contacting or crossing the string -- you have a lean -- so, twist up the yoke on one side like they said until the arrow and string are parallel. Hope this helps
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Old 01-07-2009, 12:43 PM
  #7  
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Default RE: Limb Twisting

Let me rephrase that so no confusion -- lay the bow so the string is facing up. Its easiest just to lay it in a press -- but you don't have to press it unless you need a twist
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Old 01-07-2009, 05:33 PM
  #8  
Nontypical Buck
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Default RE: Limb Twisting

I don't have a bow press so I'll take it to the shop.
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