joker80p

I had some issues with my bow and found that the string was never twisted when it was put on. So i got it twisted up and now my broadheads were hitting low right. I knew that the bow was already out of tun but my bhs were hitting good before.
If i take it to the range and paper it until i get it centered...will that get me back into tune and help my broadhead accuracy?

Snood Slapper

First, I would make sure my tiller and brace height are correct to get the bow back in spec. Just putting some twists in cables and strings without knowing what those measurements should be really isn't going to help too much. Then I would paper tune after getting centershot and nock height set properly to get me close. Then I would walk back tune.

SwampCollie

I don't think thats the answer, or quite the way to go about it....certainly just putting twists in the string and cables isn't going to help... at least its not going to totally fix the issue. A lot of it depends on the kind of bow you are shooting. I cannot imagine most modern bows not having any twists in the string... most of the bows I see without twists are older tear drop style wheel bows with steel cables.

Paper tuning, in my opinion, isn't for everyone... in fact by and large I don't think its for most anyone. There are so many variables that can effect the kind of tear you get, and so many different ways to fix things (or people telling you to fix things) that you can spend countless hours and plenty of money just chasing your tail (literally and figuratively). I'll put it this way... I've been an archery tech for almost 8 years now... certainly learned a lot since then, and heck I still learn plenty all the time... I've worked under four different "mentors", those who did paper tune and two who did not... the first two were paper tuners... and looking back on it... neither of them knew much about it.... it was just the way everything was done back then.

The latter of the two both think (as do I) that paper tuning is by and large a good way to get hypertension. If you aren't a dang near perfect shot... you'll never get a true reading anyway.

Here is what I would do... first off, we need to know what kind of bow you are shooting... tell us about your set up.

Second, you do need to check the nock height and probably reset it (depending on what kind of bow you have). And you also need to check the center shot... first by eyeballing... and then by walkback tuning.

im ocd

Paper tuning works for me.
I'm willing to try different shafts, different weight tip, or even fletching to get a bullet tear with the rest and nock in an acceptable position.
Once the bow is paper tuned I expect a compact fixed head will fly with field points. If the head won't, I'll try a different head.

I’ve shot Slick Trick magnums @ 40 yards and they flew great, didn't try further; same POI as field points.
I've shot standards out to 60 and they flew great too (Sometimes I think they fly better than field points).
Bow is paper tuned, Blazer fletching. Arrow speed 293-294 fps.

I'm fully aware that if I stood several feet closer to the paper tuning stand the tear could be different due to flexing of the shaft, .....so I always stand at about the same predetermined distance.....LA LA LA LA LA.

Snood Slapper

SwampCollie, I'm not sure if you were replying to the original poster's question, or to me (confused as you have me quoted). But, as I said, paper tuning only to get you close; and it is good for that, and only that, IMO. But it is not totally invaluable. Usually those who get frustrated with it don't understand what dynamics are going on, and therefore, don't do it properly. It behooves us to remember that the average Joe has not had 8 years experience as a bow tech (and I assume the OP is in that boat as a novice) and eye-balling is generally going to give them just as much aggravation; maybe even more. That is why I recommended walk back tuning as the final method after all else is done. You could certainly through all the above out and go directly to walk back tuning and probably do just as well as long as all your specs/measurements are correct(ed). Tiller and BH are extremely important in this instance since, again I am assuming, that this string was installed by a shop person that does not know what they are doing since there are no twists in it. If you have a modern bow and bow string, you are going to have twists in the string just for pure longevity of that string.

joker80p

I am shooting a High Country Machined supreme WB rest, 28 inch black hawk vapor arrows with 3 inch vanes and i shoot 100 grain tips.
I didnt twist the string up myself. It was done at a shop that i brought it to. Now weather he actually put the effort into knowing that it would work out the way it was supposed to is another story. When i brought it there, the cames were touching the string...He took one look at it and said it is because it has no twist and he took it in the back...however i was actually looking to get new string and cables but he doesnt think that i need them...there isnt any cuts or broken strands. As for resetting the nocking point. My nocking point was a little low so i guessed it and moved it a little as well as i was told my rest was a little far out left so i eyeballed it. Im new to all of this and probably shouldnt even bother doing it myself but i was under the impression once you were in the ball park that paper tuning would show what direction adjustements still needed to be made.
with being so close to hunting season there is a week to a week and a half wait at most shops.that is why i was going to attempt to tune myself. I just want to get it so i can put a broadhead where i want at 20 yards

ijimmy

Is paper tuning the answer?? no

You are shooting broadheads , broadhead tuning is the answer , you bow , arrows , and yourself , will need to be tuned before you get to the broadhead tune .

bigcountry

If your a hunter, broadhead tune. Paper tune is only 15% or less of the answer. I paper,bareshaft, walkback, and bh tune. When you get teh same answer for all three, you know your onto something. When something doesn't smell right, like walkback doesn'nt line with Bareshaft, then you investigate that.

But in a pinch, shoot some BH's and some field points and adjust rest/poundage accordingly.

UncleNorby

If not already done, get the bow adjusted to specs (ATA, brace, tiller).

Then set knock height and center shot, and shoot FPs to get your sights close.

Shoot FPs using walkback method to get centershot set for you. Adjust knock height if arrows porpoise.

Then shoot BHs. Broadhead tune if needed. Then your bow will be tunedfor you.

If you really care what kind of hole your arrow makes in a piece of paper a few yards downrange, great, check it out. Just don't expect that a perfect tear means the bow will shoot FPs and BHs to the same POI.

SwampCollie

I'm with you there snood. Forgive me, because I suppose that post of mine seems a big arguementitive, and I didn't mean it to be that way. The issue though is that it is fairly rare to find a spec tiller heigth listed anywhere... even in dealer spec books... you'll have brace height and axel to axel. Having an even tiller isn't always the answer either.. but I do see where you are coming from... having an even tiller is certainly a good and fair square one to build from.


If you don't mind... I'd love to know exactly how you go about paper tuning? Since it has obviously worked for you in the past, I'd like to know what distances you shoot from and so forth? I think it'd be a good FYI for everyone else too.