ORIGINAL: Snood Slapper

SwampCollie, I'm not sure if you were replying to the original poster's question, or to me (confused as you have me quoted). But, as I said, paper tuning only to get you close; and it is good for that, and only that, IMO. But it is not totally invaluable. Usually those who get frustrated with it don't understand what dynamics are going on, and therefore, don't do it properly. It behooves us to remember that the average Joe has not had 8 years experience as a bow tech (and I assume the OP is in that boat as a novice) and eye-balling is generally going to give them just as much aggravation; maybe even more. That is why I recommended walk back tuning as the final method after all else is done. You could certainly through all the above out and go directly to walk back tuning and probably do just as well as long as all your specs/measurements are correct(ed). Tiller and BH are extremely important in this instance since, again I am assuming, that this string was installed by a shop person that does not know what they are doing since there are no twists in it. If you have a modern bow and bow string, you are going to have twists in the string just for pure longevity of that string.