I don't think thats the answer, or quite the way to go about it....certainly just putting twists in the string and cables isn't going to help... at least its not going to totally fix the issue. A lot of it depends on the kind of bow you are shooting. I cannot imagine most modern bows not having any twists in the string... most of the bows I see without twists are older tear drop style wheel bows with steel cables.

Paper tuning, in my opinion, isn't for everyone... in fact by and large I don't think its for most anyone. There are so many variables that can effect the kind of tear you get, and so many different ways to fix things (or people telling you to fix things) that you can spend countless hours and plenty of money just chasing your tail (literally and figuratively). I'll put it this way... I've been an archery tech for almost 8 years now... certainly learned a lot since then, and heck I still learn plenty all the time... I've worked under four different "mentors", those who did paper tune and two who did not... the first two were paper tuners... and looking back on it... neither of them knew much about it.... it was just the way everything was done back then.

The latter of the two both think (as do I) that paper tuning is by and large a good way to get hypertension. If you aren't a dang near perfect shot... you'll never get a true reading anyway.

Here is what I would do... first off, we need to know what kind of bow you are shooting... tell us about your set up.

Second, you do need to check the nock height and probably reset it (depending on what kind of bow you have). And you also need to check the center shot... first by eyeballing... and then by walkback tuning.