Is there a trick to holding a steady bead on the target? I know this may sound like a stupid question, but earlier today I shot a great group, then this afternoone my group nearly doubled in size. I made the excuse it was all the nicotene I use throughout the day, but then thought maybe I changed my grip or something. After reading an earlier post about the till or tiller (?) maybe that could be the problem too. Also how would I find the right arrows for my bow? I just bought what was cheap since I just started in the sport. I did not think the .06 would make much difference when shooting at a deer standing 20 yards away. My bow is the Fred Bear Advantage Hunter, and I have the VAT drop away rest.

I also noticed it is kinda loud. What is the most effective remedy for this? I guess I should go to a bow shop and have them tune it for me, but after buying the bow, and everything on it, I am out of money for the time being. I thought I was getting into a cheaper bow, but by the time you add it all up, it was 600.00 before I knew it.

OK I'm no expert but I'll try my best.
1. Dont aim, float your pin in control around the area. Dont aim and try to held dead steady, thats pretty much impossible and will make you "shake". Also, make sure your form is the exact same everytime!
2. To pick the right arrow spine and all that good stuff we need specs of draw weight and length. But, I would suggest Easton or Gold Tip brand.
3. Best things hands down is some kind of STS. Maybe talk to MeanV and see what he can do for ya. Stabilizer could also help but not much compared to the STS
Hope this helps!

As said above, you really only "float" the pin, it's not nearly as precise as putting a set of crosshairs on an animal with a scope. But if you "TRUST your float," you'll find it works. Obsessing with holding precisely on a target like with a riflescope will cause you to start developing target panic!!!!

Just RELAX, and FLOAT THE PIN.......

Lets see, My bow is a fred bear advantage hunter set at 70lbs. The draw length is 29", I am shooting 28.5 in arrows right now, but could go shorter. That is just what they cut them at for some reason. I am trying to figure out the best or fastest arrow I can shoot saftely. I read not to shoot an arrow too light or it could damage my bow. I am currently using Red Head carbon fury 4560's with 85 grain FT, but am changing to 100grain. I was trying to keep the weight down, but cant find any broadheads I like in 85 grain.

When I shoot good then it turns bad or vice vesa it's usally me just over thinking my shooting.Just raise the bow and remember your having fun and relax look where you want it to hit.You know the bow can do it so it all comes back to the shooter in my case.

I would try some Gold Tip XT Hunters 5575. Pretty light and overall a good arrow, shot them all last year.

Eric,
For those arrows, you'd be better off with a 125 gr head, to up your FOC. Your spiine is good, but you want a "FRONT of Center" of around 12% optimally. With that set-up, you're not going to get a LOT of speed, nor do you really need a LOT of speed. You should be getting 255-260fps which is plenty to shoot out to 40-50yds. Don't worry so much about speed. Chuck Adams is shooting a bow that only shoots in the range that you should be getting, and he CERTAINLY does just fine!!!!! The speed you are capable of is better than 90% of the bows that were on the market 15yrs ago, and it's in a better package in all honesty, with parallel limb design for less recoil (AKA handshock). If you do decide you want to change something, look into some BETTER arrows as far as straightness for better consistency, but as a relatively new shooter, you should be just fine with what you have. I have a buddy that's been shooting for 20 yrs that shoots the same arrows you do, and is perfectly happy with them. He doesn't shoot competitively or anything, he's just a run-of-the-mill bowhunter, but they do the job for him, and he's harvested 3 deer in the past 3 yrs, one being a nice 135" 10 point that easily made Pope & Young.

If you looking to go "lighter," change arrows, not tips, changing your tips makes your FOC more out of whack, which creates tuning and arrow flight problems. Here's a good link to read for better understanding...... http://www.huntersfriend.com/2007-Ca...ion-guide1.htm If you notice at the top, there are different "Chapters" pertaining to different aspects of arrows. From Spine to FOC to Choosing the correct length, etc. Also if you keep a little length on your arrows, it's easier to meet FOC recommendations, which makes for better arrow flight. It's good information read up on it, it will help you understand a little better.