Eric,
For those arrows, you'd be better off with a 125 gr head, to up your FOC. Your spiine is good, but you want a "FRONT of Center" of around 12% optimally. With that set-up, you're not going to get a LOT of speed, nor do you really need a LOT of speed. You should be getting 255-260fps which is plenty to shoot out to 40-50yds. Don't worry so much about speed. Chuck Adams is shooting a bow that only shoots in the range that you should be getting, and he CERTAINLY does just fine!!!!! The speed you are capable of is better than 90% of the bows that were on the market 15yrs ago, and it's in a better package in all honesty, with parallel limb design for less recoil (AKA handshock). If you do decide you want to change something, look into some BETTER arrows as far as straightness for better consistency, but as a relatively new shooter, you should be just fine with what you have. I have a buddy that's been shooting for 20 yrs that shoots the same arrows you do, and is perfectly happy with them. He doesn't shoot competitively or anything, he's just a run-of-the-mill bowhunter, but they do the job for him, and he's harvested 3 deer in the past 3 yrs, one being a nice 135" 10 point that easily made Pope & Young.

If you looking to go "lighter," change arrows, not tips, changing your tips makes your FOC more out of whack, which creates tuning and arrow flight problems. Here's a good link to read for better understanding...... http://www.huntersfriend.com/2007-Ca...ion-guide1.htm If you notice at the top, there are different "Chapters" pertaining to different aspects of arrows. From Spine to FOC to Choosing the correct length, etc. Also if you keep a little length on your arrows, it's easier to meet FOC recommendations, which makes for better arrow flight. It's good information read up on it, it will help you understand a little better.